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  #31  
Old 01-19-2012, 10:21 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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OK

Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoe View Post
O.K... so, got a used working glow plug into #3 cyl. and re-tested the ohms through the large plug from the g.p relay. I got .08 ohms on each pin. I also tested the setting on the meter leads by themselves and got .02 ohms.... so I am figuring .06 ohms from each plug as well as an audible signal.

I plugged everything back in.

I heated up the hard lines, the fuel filter canister and briefly the injector bodies with the propane torch...they were all warm enough to the touch.

I tried to start it and got the same dismal cranking speed after using the two glow method from whunter. I changed his method and just glowed it once until the light went out.... then off .....then again until the light went out then cranked it. The reason I changed his method is I am by myself and can no longer hear the clunk from the relay? I don't think it is glowing as long as before ...but maybe went from glowing for 40 seconds down to 30 seconds. still longer than I am used to I think.

No go.

I put the magnetic oil pan heater on, the battery charger and the lower rad hose heater. It is starting to get cold again as the sun goes down. I'll maybe let the oil warm for a bit and recharge the battery and try again later.

I am almost certain that this is the original engine in the car.

The one thing I noticed is that coming from the bottom of the wiring harness for the glow plug relay there is a four or five pin electrical connector, connected to another connector and wrapped with electrical tape. It doesn't look like something from the factory. I will maybe take a picture later.

I reread post 5 and so that question is answered. I have 5 working now.

I did notice that the non-working #3 glow plug that came out of the engine was quite wet looking and smelled of diesel fuel.

Thanks
It sounds like you are simply fighting extreme cold temperature now.

If there is wind, a tarp over the front of the car will help trap a little more heat in the engine compartment.

I have on occasion shoveled snow around the bottom of the car to block air flow, and blocked the radiator with cardboard overnight to trap all possible heat.

In extreme conditions with my OE block heater; I also use a nasty old wool blanket draped over the top of the engine as added insulation, must remember to open the hood and remove before starting.

Cylinder #3 sounds like it is flooded, and will clear slowly once running.
Wish we where closer, I would come over with my portable generator, blankets and torpedo heater to warm it.

.

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  #32  
Old 01-20-2012, 01:05 PM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
Thanks whunter and to everyone offering advice.... Yes, I could use one of those heaters to warm the car up. I think it is just plain frozen. Your only three or four days drive, just kidding.

I used to live close to the Arctic circle and that is exactly what the large truck drivers would do if they did'nt just leave the truck running..... They would drape a tarp over the hood and fenders and put snow over the bottom of the tarp and let a torpedo heater run heat into the tarped area. I think they would have to have at least a couple of propane tanks to rotate when one would freeze. Ford of Canada would do extreme weather testing of their fleets of prototype cars up there it was so cold. I think it got to -59 C and colder on some days with the windchill factor up there. You definately want to use 0w oil when winter approaches.

Ever see a dog with a kickstand?

I managed to get someone from the city to come pick me up last night for a night class and to get some nessecities.

I went to a large truck stop and picked up a product called emergency melt down. It says it contains no light alcohols and is safe for any fuel. Supposed to make its way through the sytem and clear up any gelled fuel. I put some in the tank and in the metal spin on fuel filter last night before bed.

The oil pan heater has been on since yesterday afternoon and the battery is charged.....rad hose heater plugged in. We are suppossed to get some relief from the weather this afternoon, so will try again with a couple more things going for us. I might try a hair dryer down the intake and around the fuel area provided it don't turn out that I am just blowing cold air on it by means of convection and from how cold it is..

I am starting to accept "these things I cannot change" and may have to wait it out. I have done the best with what we have....and have gotten the best advice from here. Thanks again, I'll post when it is running,
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  #33  
Old 01-21-2012, 01:37 AM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
It is running!

Well ...finally got it running....forget what I said about accepting things.. we won.
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  #34  
Old 01-21-2012, 03:08 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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Fantastic

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Originally Posted by macdoe View Post
Well ...finally got it running....forget what I said about accepting things.. we won.
That is great news.

Here is another trick.

You can let it run/idle over night:
* Start the car with a spare key.

or cheat.
* Intentionally disconnect the Brown vacuum line at the shutdown valve, and turn off/remove the key "the battery light" will come on because it is not charging "ignore it".

* Lock the car, and get a peaceful nights sleep.
It will need an Italian Tune-up in the morning.

The longest I have kept one of my OM617 idling/running overnight is twenty four days.
If you do this, I suggest using the most severe condition oil change interval.

Have a great day.

.

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