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#1
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These motor mounts are rough!
Need inspiration to finish replacing these motor mounts (85 300SD).
As soon as I started I realized all the hex bolts were stripped. Bought new sharp edged hex sockets for the job, but they just spin. I had even cleaned out the inside of the hex bolt really good before starting. The google is no help because most of the common solutions involve being able to get at the bolt head. What do you do when you can barely reach the stupid things? I realize I could take the arm of the engine block, but that doesn't seem any easier, and I still don't think I'd have a clear shot at these things. I've resorted to aimlessly jabbing the rubber part, chipping away at it with a screwdriver... uuuurrgg!
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1987 300D - Frybrid - sold 1985 300SD |
#2
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You could try chemically dissolving the rubber and then gain access to the bolts.
My 300SD mount was pretty bad, not AS bad as your but not too far. My bolts were 6mm alan bolts, are yours the same or are they standard hex? I dont think theres enough clearance to get a standard hex + socket in there... A quick google search says Naphta, petroleoum, turpentine, or ether will do the trick, but all of those will dissolve paint as well! You can keep chipping away at the rubber then get a long 6mm alan socket and have at it. This was not a fun task on my SD even less on the 560SEL
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#3
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This might not help you now but some Allen type sockets are not flat at the end making for a reduced gripping area; hope you can see in the pics.
I ground down the one so it was flat. You may be at the point where you need to do what will most likely work instead of what is might be the easiest. This means you would have a better chance of success removing the whole Arm one at time. Ther might be something below as others have had the same problem. DIY Repair Links DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles Some have had luck dipping the end of the Allen in a gritty compound. Beating a tight fittingv Torx bit into the Allen Head. On a smaller Allen Head Bolt I actually epoxied the Allen Wrench in to the head of the Blot and used one of those Manual Impact Wreches that you hit with a Hammer. (Because you hit it with a Hammer and it rotates at the same time the force of the Hammer helps hold the bit in place pushed against the Bolt.) In the end it depands on how buggered the hole that the Allen Head goes into is.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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i had to deal with this on my W115, i was able to hammer a 12point 12MM socket over the head of the stripped 6mm allen bolt, works like a charm.
Now it was hard getting the bolt out of my good socket but i finally got it out.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#5
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I've done this as well. Works every time, but you have to make sure you get the 12point hammered in all the way.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#6
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thanks people. the 12 point 12mm socket trick worked great.
now for the other side... the bottom 8mm bolt is stuck, too. I'm trying to google what 12 point socket to go over that one? a 14mm?
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1987 300D - Frybrid - sold 1985 300SD |
#7
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For completeness sakes...
for the bottom bolt, you can't hammer a 12-point socket onto it, because it's up in a recessed area. However, drilling it out is very easy and works great. Also, I had trouble getting the inner 6MM bolts on each side. But I found after getting the outer bolts off, and pushing the mount back and forth... it breaks the inner bolts loose and they can be removed easier. Finally for the passenger side, I definitely had to remove the air filter and the air filter mounting arm...
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1987 300D - Frybrid - sold 1985 300SD |
#8
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I decided to replace my mounts when the PS pump pulley bit into the hose that goes from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler. The entire job cost about 300 buck. Yes, the mount failed and lowered the left side of the engine two or three inches. Ignorance is not bliss.
I had to remove the arm on the right side of the car and use a grinder to get the mount off the arm. The bolt was $1. I still haven't gotten the oil off the white paint on the engine compartment but I swear as soon as spring arrives... Last edited by Clemson88; 02-24-2012 at 11:57 PM. Reason: PREMATUREPOSTULATION. Hey, it happens to men all the time. |
#9
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how long did this take?
I'm curious how many hours this job takes? I have a 123 coupe that needs mounts replaced badly. Is it pretty much the same job, since it IS the same OM617 engine?
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4 1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT 1985 300 SD 1978 300 CD 1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration |
#10
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Seems to depend pretty much entirely on how mangled the old ones are. A lot of the grief comes from having to deal with hardware that's been damaged or misaligned by the engine thrashing around on bad mounts.
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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png |
#11
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ding, ding, ding
This reminds me to grab the extra 603 engine arms off the 350SD in the junkyard.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#12
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Quote:
So, any idea on the hours?
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4 1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT 1985 300 SD 1978 300 CD 1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration |
#13
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Quote:
Also if your motor mounts are toast you'll probably want to replace the trans mount as well.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#14
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Quote:
Now that you mention it, I should've thought of this ahead of time! Mine is probably shot as well. Can the trans mount be replaced at a later date, or is it an enormous amount of work once the new motor mounts are already in?
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4 1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT 1985 300 SD 1978 300 CD 1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration |
#15
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The trans mount is comparatively a piece of cake and can (and should) be done independently of the engine mounts. It's basically the third leg of a 3-legged mounting system (L and R engine mounts, trans mount on the tail of the tranny).
To replace it, you simply support the tranny (jack it up a little), remove the trans-mount nut at the top of the mount, remove the four crossmember-chassis bolts, remove crossmember, take out two bolts that attach the mount to the crossmember, remove old mount. "Installation is reverse of disassembly," to quote Mr. Haynes. I leave the mount loose until everything is in place, then tighten it all down. Hope this helps. -Dan
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1976 w115 300D 4-speed conversion!! 1985 w123 300TD 4-speed conversion!! Non-Mercedes old stuff: 1941 Buick Special (Straight 8!) 1946 Luscombe 8a 1947 Willys CJ2a 1950 Chevrolet 4400 dump truck 1954 Chevrolet 3600 3/4 ton 1954 Cessna 195B 1955 John Deere model 40 1991 Ford Taurus SHO 2013 Jetta SportWagen TDI 6-speed (I sold out... |
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