Rear Axle Removal Question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #1 04-11-2009, 03:26 PM

I started the removal process of my axles today to replace the cv boots. Started at the rear drivers side. After removing the center bolt of the axle, I slid it out as far as it could go hoping it would clear the hub but I could not get it to clear. I am being extra careful not to bang on it or force it.

Is there anything ai need to do different? I was hoping I could just replace the boots in place.

Took a picture just now but this is after I slid the axle back in place for the time being. I actually will take out the pressure washer later and pressure wash the differential area cuz I think I may just take out the whole axle anyway.

aaa · #2 04-11-2009, 03:47 PM

Disconnect the shock, it'll let the arm go down more and give the axle more space.

Rick Miley · #3 04-11-2009, 04:08 PM

I just replaced axles a couple weeks ago and didn't have to disconnect anything, including leaving brake calipers in place. The position of that jackstand is a clue that the hub isn't low enough. And your pictures don't show what's happening with the differential. Is the diff mount disconnected? If so, then it isn't high enough. Get the hub down and the diff up and it should come right out.

tobybul · #4 04-11-2009, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaa

Disconnect the shock, it'll let the arm go down more and give the axle more space.

Well, I actually did that but the arm did not drop any more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Miley

I just replaced axles a couple weeks ago and didn't have to disconnect anything, including leaving brake calipers in place. The position of that jackstand is a clue that the hub isn't low enough. And your pictures don't show what's happening with the differential. Is the diff mount disconnected? If so, then it isn't high enough. Get the hub down and the diff up and it should come right out.

Actually the jack stands are not even touching the arm because I raised the jack thinking it would drop the arm abit more. But that did not happen. Also, I have not touched the differential. From what you said it appears I have to raise the diff so I can swing out the axle?

#5 04-11-2009, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaa

Disconnect the shock, it'll let the arm go down more and give the axle more space.

Arm travel is limited by the stop brackets on the subframe. Removing the shocks won't lower it any more.

Take a prybar and push it the rest of the way out.

Brian Carlton · #6 04-11-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaa

Disconnect the shock, it'll let the arm go down more and give the axle more space.

X2.

Trailing arm travel is limited by the shock. When the shock is removed, the trailing arm will drop to the stops on the subframe. The difference is about 2". Sometimes that's the difference in getting it out........or not.

#7 04-11-2009, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

X2.

Trailing arm travel is limited by the shock. When the shock is removed, the trailing arm will drop to the stops on the subframe.

Thats never been the case on the three cars I've owned or any of the cars I've seen in the junkyards.

tobybul · #8 04-11-2009, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Thats never been the case on the three cars I've owned or any of the cars I've seen in the junkyards.

I think you are right on this FI. I loosened the bottom shock bolts and the arm did not move any more. So I think it has reached its bottom and something was stopping it (and it was not the jackstand).

leathermang · #9 04-11-2009, 08:16 PM

Doesn't the FSM suggest dropping the 3rd member to get clearance ?

tobybul · #10 04-11-2009, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Doesn't the FSM suggest dropping the 3rd member to get clearance ?

The FSM talks about loosening a "center piece from the rear axle carrier and lower until studs are out of the rear axle carrier" and then "swivel the rear axle center piece to pertinent side until rear axle shaft can be remove".

I really am not sure what they are referring to. And I don't know what a 3rd member is.

I'm not really too concerned about it because I do plan to just remove the entire axle by opening the differential. But I just want to see if the outer end of the axle can actually swing out

leathermang · #11 04-11-2009, 09:56 PM

You youngsters !!! A 3rd member is a differential... LOL

Jimmy... when you say ' raise the differential'.... how much are you able to raise it...is yours not bolted to the bottom of the car ?

I CAN see how unbolting it and LOWERING the differential in relation to the body...and turning it slightly as mentioned... could give you clearance enough to install the half shaft.

JimmyL · #12 04-11-2009, 10:10 PM

You remove the diff mount which holds the diff about 3-5 inches below the frame/floor. With the mount removed you can raise/jack the diff up that 3-5 inches. That is moving the diff side of the axle away from the hub, which gives you the needed room to get the splined end out of the hub.

Brian Carlton · #13 04-12-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Jimmy... when you say ' raise the differential'.... how much are you able to raise it...is yours not bolted to the bottom of the car ?

I CAN see how unbolting it and LOWERING the differential in relation to the body...and turning it slightly as mentioned... could give you clearance enough to install the half shaft.

Greg, it's bolted solidly to the subframe. The subframe has a three point rubber mount........two subframe bushings in the front and one differential mount in the rear. If the diff mount is removed, the subframe can travel upward at least three inches before it hits the body. The rubber mounts in the front allow the deflection in the rear.

leathermang · #14 04-12-2009, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

... If the diff mount is removed, the subframe can travel upward at least three inches before it hits the body. ...

And that , with letting the wheels fall as much as they can, is typically enough to make installation a reasonable job ?

If you were working on an old fashioned ' grease pit ' where the wheels were in normal sitting position compared to the car body... would lowering the 3rd member be a good alternative ?

I have a problem with getting my car up in the air properly. I am thinking about making a pit though... I can pour concrete....

The recommended jacking points (FSM ) for the car involves using those outbound things which stick into the holes used by the jack to raise the car... I have yet to find any of them... and really do not trust welding them up...

Brian Carlton · #15 04-12-2009, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

And that , with letting the wheels fall as much as they can, is typically enough to make installation a reasonable job ?

If you were working on an old fashioned ' grease pit ' where the wheels were in normal sitting position compared to the car body... would lowering the 3rd member be a good alternative ?

I have a problem with getting my car up in the air properly. I am thinking about making a pit though... I can pour concrete....

The recommended jacking points (FSM ) for the car involves using those outbound things which stick into the holes used by the jack to raise the car... I have yet to find any of them... and really do not trust welding them up...

Yes.

If you wish to lower the diff, you'll have to unbolt it from the subframe..........a bit of a PITA........you can't lower the subframe sufficiently while it's bolted to the subframe mounts.

Why is it difficult to raise it to the height of a typical hydraulic jack and block it at that height? You don't need the outbound posts to support it..........a typical 2 x 6 on the flat at that location works just fine.