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#1
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w123 front wheel bearings, which mfg is best?
Really need to do my front brakes, and rotors. While I have the hubs/rotors out I would like to replace the inner and outer wheel bearings.
I cannot afford the 110$ per side for Genuine MB but can probably afford the next best option. Which manufacturer is best. Needs to be Japanese, or real german, not Chinese german. Which tool would be best for removing the races? I was gonna pick up a punch and chisel set. Any good threads on this procedure? For a 1979 240D btw Thanks in advance ![]() |
#2
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FAG or SKF are both respected names.
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![]() Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#3
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On "saving money on parts." I learned my lesson on buying cheap, off-MB branded parts one breakdown time too many - just my 0.02.
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'06 E320 CDI '17 Corvette Stingray Vert |
#4
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I've been buying bearings from the dealer recently.
For my W201 differential the branded names within the box from the dealer were SKF and NG For my W201 front wheel bearings they were SKF It strikes me that some people think that Mercedes themselves employ lots of little elves or something like that to make every part for their cars. They don't. The art is to find exactly the same item with out the Mercedes box for less money. That is possible but don't rule out the dealer - sometimes they are cheaper. At the moment - factoring in the cost of postage and the fact that SKF don't sell the seal you also need!- the SKF bearings at the dealer worked out to be a better deal. They also arrived quicker than they would have from a box shifting bell end in Germany...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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I agree with Stretch, the inner SKF seals don't fit, I destroyed 'em trying to make them fit.
The dust caps needed to be banged on too. I gave away the bearings themselves, haven't heard anything bad about 'em. I have the German/Chinese (I think) ones on one car. Timkens on the other, the small bearing is made in the USA, the large one in France.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#6
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Timkin bearings working good on my car.
I would expect Mercedes bearings to be the best.
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![]() Present 1987 300SDL 1991 300SL 1990 560SEL 2001 ML320 Past 1969 200D 1979-82 1983 300SD 1984-85 1972 250C 1982-02 1995 S350 2011 1997 S320 2012 |
#7
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Quote:
SKF , FAG, Timken, National should be good. Country of origin matters. I have had good service out of anything made anywhere in Europe, USA, Mexico or Japan.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#8
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Here's the FSM procedure.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#9
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Quote:
Auto makers "make" very little of a car, most stuff comes from suppliers. Usually they stamp sheetmetal, assemble engines and finish building the car. Frequently auto makers will get together to make transmissions as they are very complicated and expensive to build. ( For example, Jaguar , Rover, Land Rover, Ford, Mazda, VW & Seat all use a JATCO brand , JF506E. Japanese Automatic Transmission COmpany. ) Quote:
I've used KOYO from Korea with good results |
#10
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FAG
....no, that was not a pejorative. Either FAG or Mercedes. I've always put FAG because they were about $20 cheaper and it's what I took off of my car when I first did them.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#11
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I did one side wheel bearings several months ago. I got the F*A*G kit from my usual online supplier.
I had no problem with the seal. What is the problem with the SKF seal? Also, every aftermarket dust cap I have seen has been utter crap, don't fit (too small), waste of money! Here's a hint: get the bearing number off the bearing(s) you need. The bearing number, not the oem part number. If you are not in a super rush, do some hunting on e bay for quality / German bearings. I've bought countless old stock German SKF / F*A*G bearings on ebay, CHEAP, and I usually have a nice supply on hand for my vehicles and/or shop projects. There is no need to pay dealer prices for the same bearing you'd get at a bearing supply house or on e bay. I fully agree, there are no MB gnomes making bearings. I have a few NOS MB boxed bearings, and they are no different than the same brand / part number bearings I have bought elsewhere, other than being in an MB logo box. I guess if you want to pay top dollar for a pretty box, that is your prerogative, but I'd rather spend my money on something else. |
#12
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"Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shi*. That’s all it is, isn’t it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer’s sake, for your daughter’s sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me."
Reminds me of some of the replacement parts available these days.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#13
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FYI: I took my hubs to the local NAPA dealer here in Portland, and they were kind enough to press out all four races and install the new ones for $20! At that price I would not even consider fooling around with a hammer and punch.
Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride! - '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member). |
#14
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I usually drive out the old Race with a Brass Drift. Been a while since I did some, but I used the old Race to push in the new one, then knocked the old Race out with the Brass Drift.
Don`t remember the seal brand, but went right in. Got what ever Phil sent me at the time. SKF and FAG could be made anywhere. I just got one of each for a Pilot Bearing, and both were made in Argentina. they could be made in China as well. NATIONAL brand is a Chicom made bearing. I believe every brand of bearing is made where ever it can be made the cheapest. The best place for original German Bearings would be in PNP, but you would damage the Races driving them out probably. not saying to source them there, just saying that is the last source for some German parts. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#15
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Not always, check the box on a case be case basis. National / BCA-Bower all same company owned by Federal Mogul ( FM ) Front wheel bearings on these cars are industry standard taper roller bearings. Be sure to order a cone and cup to make a set as only auto parts generally pair them up to make a set. ( A2, A15 and so on ) I've has no problems with a SKF front wheel seal, they were uncoated so adding some aviation sealer helps install and prevents leaks. |
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