Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-10-2012, 01:10 PM
Desert Panther's Avatar
Dieselicious
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Avra Valley, Arizona
Posts: 206
Question changed ATF & filter, and now it's leaking

This just recently happened to my 1978 300CD, which previously didnt leak a drop of trans fluid. As the car is a semi recent purchase, I am in the process of going through and changing all fluids, everywhere. The ATF that was in it looked a little "off color", but definitely wasnt the worst i'd ever seen or smelled. Put the new filter & gasket in (from Fastlane - of course!) and all was well. For a few weeks anyway. Now I am getting a few quarter sized spots of ATF underneath the front of the trans when I park the car after driving it any distance. A mechanic at a local indie Benz shop put the car on a lift & said it is likely the front seal (or front pump seal?). The transmission shifts just fine, like it always has, no complaints there. But this new fluid leak bothers me, obviously. I am going to take an educated guess here & suppose that the addition of new ATF somehow dislodged some dirt or debris around that seal, thereby enabling the leak. Is there any "magic additive in a can" that may possibly remedy this situation? I am pretty sure that other folks on this forum have dealt with this exact issue at some point in their Benz owning life.

__________________
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4
1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT
1985 300 SD
1978 300 CD
1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-10-2012, 01:47 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I know of no magic in a can solution.

Sorry.

First you need to find out exactly where the leak is coming from.

Did you by any chance drain the torque converter when you did the fluid change? (Hint - check the torque converter drain plug)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-10-2012, 02:22 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
Over-tightening the tranny pan bolts will distort the gasket and allow leaks.

I'd take the pan off, re-examine the gasket fit, surgically clean all surfaces in the area, put the pan back on, and using a star pattern tighten the bolts down... not too tightly. Snug and then a bit, like you would a tapered spark plug. Reinspect in a day, a week, and then a month, and then you're good.
__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-10-2012, 03:02 PM
Desert Panther's Avatar
Dieselicious
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Avra Valley, Arizona
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I know of no magic in a can solution.

Sorry.

First you need to find out exactly where the leak is coming from.

Did you by any chance drain the torque converter when you did the fluid change? (Hint - check the torque converter drain plug)
No, I didnt drain the torque converter, just the fluid in the pan. The owner/head mechanic at the indie Benz shop said it was the front seal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
Over-tightening the tranny pan bolts will distort the gasket and allow leaks.

I'd take the pan off, re-examine the gasket fit, surgically clean all surfaces in the area, put the pan back on, and using a star pattern tighten the bolts down... not too tightly. Snug and then a bit, like you would a tapered spark plug. Reinspect in a day, a week, and then a month, and then you're good.
I am certain the leak isn't coming from the pan.
__________________
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4
1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT
1985 300 SD
1978 300 CD
1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-10-2012, 03:25 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Well the only way to fix a front seal is to remove the transmission and replace the seal.

There's some pictures of the front seal etc etc here

722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)

I guess you've got a 722.1 there...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-10-2012, 06:26 PM
layback40's Avatar
Not Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
The front seal will have hardened with age/heat & the spring that keeps it tight on the TC tube will have stretched.
Its great to see that you are not going down the path of trying snake oil. There are many products that claim to rejuvenate seals & gaskets. They dont work or if they do its only for a short time.ATF will get out of any where, thats why its such a good ingredient for penetrate/un seize products.

A good indie can have the trans out in about 2 hrs.
I would replace the seal with a viton one. ~$20 instead of $5 but they will outlast the car. We have never had to replace a viton seal. Had to do standard seal again many times in various applications. The heat kills them.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-10-2012, 07:20 PM
Desert Panther's Avatar
Dieselicious
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Avra Valley, Arizona
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post

A good indie can have the trans out in about 2 hrs.

Really, 2 hours?!?!!? So then what, about 2½ hours to put it back in the car and maybe a half hour to r&r the actual seal for a total of 5 hours? The shop quoted me 8 hours to R&R the seal/trans. At 105 an hour labor rate! Needless to say, I think i'll hold off for a while until I have that kind of money to throw at it. I dont have the skills or the tools to be doing this job myself. Not at this point in time, anyway.

I will just keep an close eye on the ATF level in the transmission & top up when necessary.

__________________
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4
1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT
1985 300 SD
1978 300 CD
1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page