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  #31  
Old 03-27-2012, 04:49 PM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip001 View Post
LOL
You are exactly RIGHT!!! Just came from ANOTHER Auto Electric shop and he determined it is a "Motorola". Said they are not as common as the Bosch and could be $180ish to repair. I got a price from Bennett Auto of $90 w/lifetime wty. I think it is a re-man Bosch. It must be the Alt that is keeping the dash lights from coming on because he had me sit in the car and look at the dash while he did something with his tester and the lights came on bright as can be!!
I added this thread to my Old one on the Motorola Alternator as it has better pictures.

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  #32  
Old 03-27-2012, 10:26 PM
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Location: Gainesville, Georgia
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WooHoo!!!!!

Just found out, My AMAZING mechanic & friend Pierre has found me a Alternator!!

THANK YOU Pierre!!!

Hope to have this on soon!!
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #33  
Old 03-31-2012, 11:45 AM
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Have you seen my stapler?
 
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Location: Gainesville, Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
You need to remove and clean the ground strap between the bellhousing of the tranny and the body of the car.

There is also a ground spot behind the gauge cluster, rarely is this ever a problem but worth a check.

At the end of the day to be honest I think the alternator is bad, have you checked the brushes on the voltage reg?
After ALL that troubleshooting, You were right Stewart, If i would of just replaced the D@MN Alternator at first i would of been done with it!! It was different, Motorola, than the
Bosch I had seen on my other 300's.Oh well, I sure learned alot along the way .

I figured since I was already dirty to my elbows, I'll tackle my starter issue also. Pulled it off and took to my auto electric guy. Come to find out the screw that the actuator pivots on was missing , lucky this guy is honest. $25 repair cost! WooHoo!! WAY better than the $189 Bosch re-man from Advanced!! Now the 240d is starting and charging as designed!!!

Thank You all for the suggestions and ideas!!!!
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold

Last edited by Hip001; 03-31-2012 at 12:02 PM.
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  #34  
Old 03-31-2012, 07:53 PM
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Glad to hear your got her charging again
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #35  
Old 06-25-2019, 12:49 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
On the Alternator Connecto/Plug. You should get Battery Voltage all of the time from the 2 large Slots on the Connector that attach to the Fat Red Wires.



The single Small Slot that attches to the Blue Wire goes to the No Charging light circuit. When the Key is off you should get no voltage there. When the Key is on but not cranking you will get about 1 volt less than the Battery Voltage if the Bulb and circuit are OK.
Ok I'm working on a 85 300sd, got battery light flickering, almost off revving. Swapped regulator and now alternator (can't say 100% it's good but I think they all are). Full battery at both big terminals and 1.24 key off 2.35 key on. What's going on here? Po has the two blue and the grey (that is the smaller terminal) wire nutted together because the terminal block screw is stripped, they all went to that teminal. Testing for voltage at that nut or the smaller alt spade gets the same result.

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  #36  
Old 06-25-2019, 01:10 AM
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Location: delaware
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Ok. So running I have 14.3 at the blue/grey third terminal but battery voltage isn't changing. Like 12.2. I even swapped batteries thinking mine was bad. WTF? should I pull a VR from a good car I guess for sh*s and gigles?

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com
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  #37  
Old 06-28-2019, 01:34 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: delaware
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Well if anyone comes across this thread searching for answers. Make sure the three prong plug or any rebuilding of it isn't corroded even possibly internally up in the wires. I had resistance at the spade terminals and all I had to do to fix it was a new field wire and the two battery wire harness from another car. Two days of head scratching test metering, alt swapping, plug pulling more head scratching wire diagram reading. Bonus is that it was free to fix from a parts car and I now fully understand how the charging system works and can even upgrade it with a newer higher output model from a r129 or w124.

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com
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