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#1
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Play in wheel bearings or trailing arms?
Recently I had a friend come into town and we took my '78 300D into the mountains for a day hike. Drove 9 miles up and 9 miles back on a bumpy dirt road and after returning from the day hike I noticed that the rear end felt a bit "loose."
Now, I checked the tightness of the rear wheel bearings when I first bought the car about 2 months ago then tried rocking each wheel back and forth after I changed my rear springs, shocks, subframe bushings and sway bar bushings. That work was done only 3 or 4 weeks ago and the car hasn't been driven very much since. Shortly after replacing the suspension bushings (I DIDN'T get to the trailing arm bushings) I took the car to Firestone and got it aligned. I did the lifetime alignment since I know that after the suspension components really settle in, it's going to need another alignment anyway. Now both rear wheels feel a tiny bit loose to me, like the bearings may need repacking and adjustment. I can rock both of the wheels back and forth a very small amount but just enough to make a slight thump. I had the rear end off the ground yesterday to replace my driveshaft carrier, bushing and flex joints and I tried quite a bit to rock the wheels and feel for loose bearings but they felt tight. Back on the ground, then the wheels are under a load, I can move them just a tiny bit. When driving there is no squealing, squeaking, grinding or any noise that I'd associate with bearings going bad. When off the ground, the only sound that the hubs make is from the brake pads dragging a very slight amount. Could it be that all 4 bearings in the rear have come out of adjustment at the same time after a drive on a dirt road with some rocks and washboards? It seems statistically impossible to myself and a few friends but stranger things have happened, I guess. Could it also be that the rear suspension settled in a bit more and my trailing arm bushings (which definitely need replacement) are causing this apparrent loose feeling? I'm driving the car to Firestone tomorrow morning for a re-alignment. Problem is that the shop is about 60 miles away and if it's bearings, I don't want to drive that far and risk damaging my hubs more. I don't have the tool for the hub removal to adjust the bearings but after pay day I could swing purchasing one. Thanks for any advice you all can offer. Phil Forrest
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend. "The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests." Tom Abrahamsson |
#2
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The rear wheel bearings aren't as simple as you might expect - have a look at these threads
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed If you have a dial gauge - DTI - clock gauge you can measure the bearing play. But to do that you should remove the axle...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Quote:
Failed trailing arm bushings can give the appearance of everything from front end problems to bad shocks. If they visibly appear bad, you will be shocked to find out how bad they actually are, once removed. Too much longer and you run the risk of damage to the trailing arm. On the up side, you will also be amazed at the glue-like feeling while traveling wonderful winding roads, after they are replaced. ![]()
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#4
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I'm hoping it's trailing arm bushings, frankly. I have the bushings already and the tools necessary to replace them. I don't have the splined tool for the hubs plus it's a pretty big expense for my right now. Regardless, if they need adjustment, I'll buy the tool and adjust them.
Anyway, here she is: ![]()
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend. "The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests." Tom Abrahamsson |
#5
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Quote:
There might be one in the Tool Rental program. DIY Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82 http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf Slide Hammering off the Hub or using a an old Brake Rotor reversed and beating on that to get the Rear Hub out (a new Hub is over $300) damages the Bearings. Beating the Hub off from the inside outwards can collaspe the Metal on that end. You won't really know what the Rear Hub end play is until you use a Dial Indcator to check it. Right now you only know when you rock the Wheel something seems loose.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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I don't have the tool for the wheel bearing castle nut so I can't do anything there until I get it.
I have to get the car all done and ready for a ~1500 mile trip up to the US Pacific NW just before Thanksgiving (I'm moving there.) Just under a month, so I'm hoping that it's a minimal of expense only. I just can't afford to pay anyone to do the wheel bearings if that's the issue. If I can do them, then I will. Phil Forrest
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend. "The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests." Tom Abrahamsson |
#7
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Great North West, Oregon or Washington. 3 Pick N Pull around Portland, one I know of in Vancouver. so there is a source of parts.
How many miles on your W123?. I changed out my Sub Frame Bushings and Trailing Arm Bushings at around 360K miles. I also swapped in some used Trailing arms from a 85 300CD with less miles. think each side was around $42. Trail arms from a W126 81 - 85 are the same as the W123. I see lower milage 126`s than 123`s in the yards. It would be easier to swap arms and pop in some new bushings. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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For each alignment they should use a spreader bar to set it to Mercedes specifications...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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