Got me some cheap dash wood for my W123 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #1 03-31-2012, 12:15 PM

G'day Folks,

I think I got a bargain - a set of dash wood delivered for 50 euros.

Well I have to explain that that really is a bargain for over here - I guess there are some Californian pick 'n' pull desert rats out there who do better every day of the week - so burst my bubble why don't you!

Anyway it isn't in the best shape ever but I reckon it'll buff out just fine.

The little coloured plastic dots that sit within the heater controls are missing - does anyone have a picture / link to a picture showing how they are meant to look? (I want to try and replicate the colours if I can - a bit of mach4 plastic casting is in order I feel)

The whole glove compartment door seems to be in pretty good shape

Centre console bit always seems to be the worst bit - and here's no exception. But here there seems to be a dial instead of a wheel for the speaker fader - I've never seen that before!

Here it is on the other side.

And I even got the ash tray!

Stretch · #2 03-31-2012, 12:16 PM

Attachment for the ash tray

Yak · #3 03-31-2012, 12:32 PM

For a complete set of burl wood, 50 euros doesn't seem too bad.

If the plastic-y finish on the burl is anything like the finish on the zebrano removing it can be a chore. Based on the flaking, I presume "that'll buff out" is a euphemism for "it'll take some effort". As long as the wood veneer is intact, yes, it'll look fine.

I've been told that acetone does quick work on the OE finish, but I've got no personal experience there. I tried an increasing aggressive routine of paint removers, epoxy strippers, to sand paper. If I were doing it again, I might start off with the acetone on a scrap piece to see what works best, then go on to the pieces to be installed.

charmalu · #4 03-31-2012, 01:00 PM

Great score on the wood. I have a few pieces of that too. just need a few more.

Here is one thread of wood finishing from the Vintage forum.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/314821-w108-refinished-wood-trim.html

There are a few more, just need to dig deeper. as I remember, do not sand the wood. the veneer is very thin.

Here is some reading for you.

PeachParts Search

Charlie

Stretch · #5 03-31-2012, 01:12 PM

Thanks Charlie - I've just found this one for using super glue as a filler

Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks

Do you know why everyone is hot for the Zebrano instead of the walnut burl stuff? It must be my Britishness but I much prefer the Walnut - it is Walnut isn't it?

Stretch · #6 03-31-2012, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

For a complete set of burl wood, 50 euros doesn't seem too bad.

If the plastic-y finish on the burl is anything like the finish on the zebrano removing it can be a chore. Based on the flaking, I presume "that'll buff out" is a euphemism for "it'll take some effort". As long as the wood veneer is intact, yes, it'll look fine.

I've been told that acetone does quick work on the OE finish, but I've got no personal experience there. I tried an increasing aggressive routine of paint removers, epoxy strippers, to sand paper. If I were doing it again, I might start off with the acetone on a scrap piece to see what works best, then go on to the pieces to be installed.

Hmmm acetone - thanks for the tip - I'll give it a go.

Biodiesel300TD · #7 03-31-2012, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Do you know why everyone is hot for the Zebrano instead of the walnut burl stuff? It must be my Britishness but I much prefer the Walnut - it is Walnut isn't it?

I'm not sure it's walnut, walnut is pretty dark wood, kind of a chocolate brown with darker swirls. Might be maple burl.

Yak · #8 03-31-2012, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Thanks Charlie - I've just found this one for using super glue as a filler

Repairing Zebrano Wood Cracks

Do you know why everyone is hot for the Zebrano instead of the walnut burl stuff? It must be my Britishness but I much prefer the Walnut - it is Walnut isn't it?

Zebrano came on the car. I think it's more common in the US W123's. I thought burlwood was a later addition. Maybe zebrano got scarce, maybe M-B changed styles to update the look.

I also had zebrano in my '91 Audi. Some pinhead stole my zebrano shift knob during an overseas shipment. I had to order a new one, and drove with a tacky golf-ball shift knob for a while.

charmalu · #9 04-01-2012, 12:03 AM

I remember reading this thread when I first registered with the forum. this has some great tips on what to/do/not do etc.....

strip and refinish wood trim

There is plenty of crapy pieces of wood at PNP to experiment on.

Charlie

lutzTD · #10 04-01-2012, 12:14 AM

nce find. Ive been trying to get a burl set for my coupe for a while, very scarce here. I have a couple pieces for the lower but none of the upper dash stuff

Stretch · #11 04-01-2012, 06:07 AM

Now bits of wood trim are quite cheap to post to the US aren't they?

panZZer · #12 04-02-2012, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

For a complete set of burl wood, 50 euros doesn't seem too bad.

If the plastic-y finish on the burl is anything like the finish on the zebrano removing it can be a chore. Based on the flaking, I presume "that'll buff out" is a euphemism for "it'll take some effort". As long as the wood veneer is intact, yes, it'll look fine.

I've been told that acetone does quick work on the OE finish, but I've got no personal experience there. I tried an increasing aggressive routine of paint removers, epoxy strippers, to sand paper. If I were doing it again, I might start off with the acetone on a scrap piece to see what works best, then go on to the pieces to be installed.

Yup im the guy that gave you the acetone trick --The spray "aircraft" paint strippers WONT EVEN PHASE the clearcoat. get a air tight piece of tupperware and let it soak submerged over nite and the thick poliester coat usually wrinkles up and falls off--if it dosent-- soak longer--Dont try th peel up with a putty knife it will mar the thin wood pattern laminate which is only a few hundred thousands thick

Stretch · #13 04-02-2012, 01:44 PM

Hey panZZer are you soaking the wood too? Or are you just placing it upside down in a very shallow puddle? (in the tupperware)

mach4 · #14 04-02-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Now bits of wood trim are quite cheap to post to the US aren't they?

I've heard you say many times that shipping costs just kill any possibility of sourcing anything from the US.

Some time ago I ran into a retired Navy guy at the JY. He was a Filipino and he was pulling Mercedes parts to ship to Manila for friends and family. I was shocked because I assumed that shipping would make anything he got prohibitively expensive. I was more shocked when he bought an R4 compressor from me of unknown quality (it was off my donor car and I never attempted to run the A/C so it could have been just a core) When I asked him about how he was able to buy stuff and get it shipped and make economic sense, he told me about a thing called a Balikbayan Box. This is a standardized box 18"x18"x24" that will ship from California to Manila for $75 - no weight restrictions (If it fits, it ships) And it even includes pickup.

The size of the box is such that they can maximize the load in a container and get the best shipping price. It takes 30 days or longer, but even so...

It's a fascinating service (Rates for E-Balikbayan Boxes - Manila Forwarders) and, my reason for telling this story is that, I'm just wondering if there might not be a service out there of a similar nature that would get something from the US to places in Europe on the same business model.

Imagine being able to get a box of Mercedes spare parts from Cali junk yards delivered for some similar flat rate fee.

Stretch · #15 04-03-2012, 03:04 AM

Mach4 that would be great - I'm sure I could squeeze a w111 in there at that price! I'll look into it and report back if I find an equivalent service.