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  #1  
Old 04-17-2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Here is a You Tube video on what Stevo mentioned about using a oil can and bleeding from the bottom up. this is a very good demonstration oh how to do it.

BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube



Charlie
Thats a good video, thanks


A while back someone posted how they used a grease gun instead of a pump can, which might be the way to go except it takes two hands. Its hard to find a decent pump can, seems most of what you see now is cheap junk. The first one I tried from HF leaked like crazy. This way sure beats dealing with two different size bleed nipples and tiny hose clamps.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
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"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2012, 01:19 PM
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I've been useing the oil pump can bleeding method for over 30 years. It is almost fool proof. The hardest thing is finding a good oil pump can that has a large enough capacity. If you run out of fluid during the bleed, you end up pumpinig air into the lines. This usually only happens when you are pumping a lot of fluid into long brake lines. I have even bled brake lines on aircraft this way. Good Luck!
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2012, 02:10 PM
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I spent allot of time getting the brake slave to clutch slave method down but it only took one time with the squirt can to see thats the way to go, sooo much easier and, yes, apparently pretty fool proof.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:15 PM
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Update: took it in this morning. The shop owner showed me the part that he was going to install. Definitely OEM. The "seal" (dust boot?) at the end had a little crease at the edge, but otherwise it looked good.

Got the car back this evening and the clutch works well. Engages right at the middle of the travel range, a bit of free play near the top but not excessive. Hope this repair holds, and kudos to United for standing behind their work.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by spdrun View Post
Update: took it in this morning. The shop owner showed me the part that he was going to install. Definitely OEM. The "seal" (dust boot?) at the end had a little crease at the edge, but otherwise it looked good.

Got the car back this evening and the clutch works well. Engages right at the middle of the travel range, a bit of free play near the top but not excessive. Hope this repair holds, and kudos to United for standing behind their work.
Yes it is great to hear they stand behind their work. Sure beats a pile of manure situation that is all too common now. Kind of sad when manufacturers cannot manufacture a simple slave cylinder properly though. Your prior part was obviously defective from the start.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:45 AM
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Glad to hear it worked out well. I ended up junking my 240D when I made the mistake of attempting to do clutch repair etc.

- Peter.
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Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
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1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
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1971 108 280S
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2012, 02:23 PM
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^^^

I'm thinking of doing so, or at least going to work on the car with a fire axe.

Didn't drive it for a few weeks, and when I get in to drive it, the clutch is as limp as a sclerotic old man's love noodle. This after having the aforementioned mechanic replace the slave cylinder twice and the master at least once.

*PUNCHES THE WALL!* Well, back to the mechanic on Monday, and he's probably quite sick of the sight of the car.
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