Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-19-2012, 11:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
troubles removing front brake lines

I'm replacing my flexible brake lines. I've removed them from the calipers but am having trouble removing them from the hard lines. I've soaked them several times in PB Blaster and have an 11mm flare wrench, but even with that the hard line nut is starting to round off.

What's the best approach to breaking this free? Should I use the 11mm flare wrench to hold the top nut in place while turning the 17mm soft line, or vice-versa?

Any other tips on getting this done without ruining anything? Thanks.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-20-2012, 01:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Palmdale/Ventura, CA
Posts: 813
I do not have experience, and it sounds like you are on the right track
with PB blaster. Somebody here is going to have a better answer.

But is heat possible on the outer nut ? Without burning the rubber ?

Heat would expand the outer nut and help the PB get in.
You asked about which to turn and yes I would probably try to keep the 11mm
hard line steady and work at getting the rubber line free.

My thinking here is that the rubber line is being sacrificed and going to be replaced so if damaged does not matter.
__________________
80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs
83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day
02 Z71 Suburban 117,000
15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles
00 Harley Sportster 24k
09 Yamaha R6
03 Ninja 250
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-20-2012, 04:47 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
In my experience you need to do the best you can. The chances are that you'll have to replace the hard line(s) as well as the flexible ones... to be honest I finding arsing about with things like this extremely irritating so you'll see me reaching for the mole grips faster than most!

When you fit the new ones put a smidge of vaseline / grease over the joint when fitted in place to try and stop it from corroding.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-20-2012, 09:42 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,011
Get a Vise Grips 4LW Locking Wrench. This particular Vise Grips tool will hold the hex-head fitting on the hard line securely WITHOUT damaging it. The LW series is unlike any other Vise Grips product. I have all three, but the only one I ever use is the little one.

Using the 4LW, clamp it down on the hard line fitting so you can hold it fast. Cut the hose at the connection to the hard line so you can get a deep 6-point 10mm socket on the hose fitting.

Hold the locked-on 4LW steady while turning counterclockwise on the socket wrench (I like to use a long-handled 3/8-drive ratchet). You do NOT want to apply rotational torque to the hard line fitting. Hold it fast or you run the risk of kinking the tubing.

I have removed 40-year-old brake hoses using this method. Haven't lost a hard line yet.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-20-2012, 10:18 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maki View Post
Get a Vise Grips 4LW Locking Wrench. This particular Vise Grips tool will hold the hex-head fitting on the hard line securely WITHOUT damaging it. The LW series is unlike any other Vise Grips product. I have all three, but the only one I ever use is the little one.
That's an excellent tool. I'm definitely getting one for this specific purpose. There is always a danger of rounding the nut when using the flare wrench or the standard vice-grip............even when heat is applied.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-20-2012, 11:43 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
That's an excellent tool. I'm definitely getting one for this specific purpose. There is always a danger of rounding the nut when using the flare wrench or the standard vice-grip............even when heat is applied.
I bought a set of Craftsman flare wrenches years ago and to my chagrin found that the set lacked an 11mm wrench, which is what most German cars need for brake line fittings. Then there's the issue of corrosion, which can eat away at the flats on the fitting and make the wrench a loose fit.

Sometimes you've really got to crank on that hose fitting to make it let go... the job is a challenging combination of force and delicate care. The right tool can make all the difference.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-20-2012, 12:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maki View Post
I bought a set of Craftsman flare wrenches years ago and to my chagrin found that the set lacked an 11mm wrench
...
Classic Sears strategy: sell a "set" that is not really complete, then you have to buy the missing pieces at much higher "individual" prices.
__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-20-2012, 01:34 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maki View Post
Get a Vise Grips 4LW Locking Wrench. This particular Vise Grips tool will hold the hex-head fitting on the hard line securely WITHOUT damaging it. The LW series is unlike any other Vise Grips product. I have all three, but the only one I ever use is the little one.
...
Man what a tool!

Just think how many brake lines I could have saved...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-20-2012, 10:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
I've ordered the vise grips. If that fails, what is involved in replacing the hard lines? Can they be bought pre-bent?

thanks for all the advice.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-20-2012, 10:47 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240dddd View Post
I've ordered the vise grips. If that fails, what is involved in replacing the hard lines? Can they be bought pre-bent?

thanks for all the advice.
Heat the fitting with a propane torch for about 30 seconds.

Use the vice-grips.

They will not fail.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-20-2012, 11:20 PM
bamba's Avatar
The Dude Abides
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 245
Some ideas:

If you're replacing the soft lines anyway, just cut them so you can use a 6-point socket on that side.

PB Blaster is decent, but there are better 'industrial-grade' lubes out there. If you can track down AeroKroil, that will help. You can also try a 50:50 mixture of ATF and acetone.

As others have said, a torch will also help.

The chain autoparts retailers carry generic steel brake lines for "European" cars. It's the same size as the MB OEM. I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts for under $10. Just be careful and patient when bending them yourself, so you avoid kinking the lines.
__________________
-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion
Alaska Roadtrip 2009
-2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi
-1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 12:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,652
Cunifer Copper Alloy Brake Tubeing

This is some pretty good tubeing, bends w/o kinking and will not rust.

Federal Hill Trading Company

may be pricy for some of you, and the tool they show in the video is a good chunk of money, but sure is a slick way to flair the ends,

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-22-2012, 02:28 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
Vice Grips 7LW FTW! What a great tool, thanks for the suggestion. The passenger side bolt was pretty well rounded and it still worked.

I also cut the flexible line and used a half inch drive six point deep socket with a breaker bar on the flexible line fittings.

On the passenger side the metal bracket that surrounds the top of the flexible line was slightly bent and was preventing me from getting a good grip on the entire hard line nut. I ended up snipping that piece off with some tin snips to make more room.

Other than holding down the plastic bracket for the break-wear wires, is this piece necessary to replace?


Last edited by 240dddd; 05-22-2012 at 02:29 AM. Reason: forgot a word
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page