I used to work on aircraft undercarriage struts - if you can taken them to bits as easily as layback40 says then the only problems you are probably going to have will be wear or corrosion related. If you get stuck finding seals I might be able to help... as a wild guess I'd expect to see PTFE seals in there.

So do it!

Do it!

Do it!

(and take some pictures)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Wish I had one to take apart -would be good to have a procedure along with the correct seals, could be a very simple rebuild -

The real issue in doing these, which is IMPORTANT, is the material composition of the hydraulic seal.

Within Citroens, as Army may know, older cars used vegetable-based hydraulic oil and they used EPDM-based seals. aka LHS seals

Later cars used mineral-based fluids which required butyl-N or N-buta seals. aka LHM seals.

I am told Viton seals will work in both types, but have no data to back this up.

I someone wanted to send me a leaking strut which I could rebuild for them, I would make a small sticky on it. I'd also need a tiny bit of the fluid to analyse.

BTW in a pinch mineral-based can use Dexron, but not type F ATF, but it's good to replace it afterwrads, it's only good for a couple years.

Hykon Glacial Blue is usually good for several years.

__________________
Strelnik
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1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6