Any tips on cleaning the block surface? The gasket came right off so there aren't any chunks of head gasket left but I think it should be cleaner?

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

A can of your favorite brake or carb cleaner, mineral spirits, paper towels and a very light touch with a razor. I did ask the machine shop after they cleaned mine if its ready to go and they said yes, but also it was best for them to machine it perfect I was really only after getting it checked for warpage, within size spec and cleaned.

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Treetops
06 E320 CDI 127K Miles
87 300TD 231K Miles

99 E300 269K Miles-Sold

well i tried to do a trial fit of the non- trap ox manifold. i used the 3.5 turbine housing because it has holes it it for the studs coming from the flange on the manifold. then i tried a few different combinations of wastegate housings and the short flex pipes off the back with no luck . i guess the turbo sits a bit further out towards the passenger side and maybe higher. so the downpipe would both need to be taller and angled. i want to figure this out someday because i really don't like the trap ox manifold. maybe i can find some pics of the original downpipe for the euro manifold on a w124. another question i have is the water pump housing that bolts to the block. i heard the 3.5L housings are an "upgrade"? i had to pull mine to replace the gasket anyways so all i would have to get is a water pump gasket to install the 3.5's on my car. also i thought i would swap the later vac pump from the 3.5 that has the screws on the front with mine but it seems like it is missing bearings? the wheel spins freely and the timing gear is perfect but something is off about it?

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

ok, so i have everything but the correct downpipe to install this. looks like the flex tube and the angled pipe that directs it down towards the transmission are the same on the w140 setup i have if the downpipe off a 2.5 turbo will work, i can get it so i have less to re- engineer. the trap ox downpipe uses 3 studs where the w140/ euro manifolds use only 2 to connect to the downpipe

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Your manifold picture shows one manifold backwards. The trap manifold is 6-1 left to right, the .971 manifold is 1-6 left to right. The EGR port opens upwards. I don't think "further out towards the passenger side" is an issue because Euro 124 engine bays aren't wider than US 124 engine bays. Not 6-cylinder cars, anyway. Can you take pictures of the Euro manifold in the engine bay?

You have to get creative fitting the 3.0 actuator in place of the 3.5 actuator but IIRC it's just a matter of reworking the actuator rod.

There's a Euro downpipe which I doubt is NLA. It won't be a direct fit to a post-trap exhaust system but at least the alignment will be right from the turbo to the transmission hanger. I'm sure someone on the Diesel Performace forum has the Euro downpipe part number.

Early water pump housings must have been prone to cracks because later housings have stiffeners by the temp switch. IIRC only the '95 E300 (606) has an oddball housing because it has an oil cooler on the starboard side of the engine. You shouldn't need anything more than the funky shape housing gasket (not water pump gasket) to fit a later housing. I suppose you'll need a new water pump housing as well

If that's a picture of your vacuum pump, be thankful your car is off the road. There should be a plastic spacing ring keeping the balls spaced round the circumference. After the spacing ring disintegrates, the drive wheel can wobble allowing the balls to spray into the timing chain and the pump drive lever to come apart. Screws on the front cover aren't a guaranty of redesigned bearings. This is the pump that came off one of my cars. I don't use orange goop, I bought the car that way (pictures hosted by gsxr) -





If that's your pump, can you share the build date found etched or stamp into the facing surface of the main pump housing?



Sixto
MB-less

Hmm... I didn't think of that. Maybe I can find someone to compare part numbers...

Sixto
MB-less

yeah, if someone could give me a P/N for the w124 euro manifold that would be great!

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

well i think i may have lucked out! i was stumbling around on random threads again and found whunter's post on a vacuum pump failure in a 1992 300d 2.5 turbo and when he pulled the engine, the whole downpipe setup looked the same! so this means i can grab the spare one my buddy has and bolt it all up then give my original downpipe to my other friend to so we can get rid of his oxidation catalyst as i have already "deleted" mine

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

I haven't found the part numbers but I heard they're different.

Sixto
MB-less

dang it, i hope not. i think the 2.5's will be close if it isn't the same.

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

anyone have thoughts on these injectors? i thought inclined injection heads got different injectors with finer threads right at the nozzle? the appear to be the same as the ones in my #14? i can see 2 sets of threads in the head and these only use the upper ones on the locking ring. also there is some pitting on the 3.5 injectors. they have lower mileage than the ones in my 14 though. i cleaned them up the best i could. i also removed my vaccum pump and IP off my 3.0. i was extremely happy to see the older style pump and my timing device in great shape! unfortunately, i will have to put this back on until i get a quality new style pump. i ordered the dam style gasket. is this ok? can the dam gasket be used on any 603 pump? i will also post date codes from both that scary damaged one off the 3.5 engine and and my 3.0 one that is still in perfect shape with bearing spacers and all! what is odd is that the one off the 3.5 had the screws on its front plate which i thought meant it had the newer sealed bearings but i guess i was wrong. i spoke to my chosen machine shop and the gentleman i spoke with was very helpful and informed me he did have the proper prechamber removal tools. i asked him about cleaning it up and would prefer not to machine it because of the concerns of clearances being different in our 603's and would have to use an expensive thicker HG or prechamber spacers. he assured me that if the head is not warped, he thinks it would be best to take a thousandth of an inch off to completely rid the surface of any imperfections and it would not cause any issues. i think he said if it was warped, he would have to take 6-7 thousands of an inch off and that could cause issues. i hope i didn't confuse any measurements there because i'm still learning haha. hope everyone had a wonderful thanksgiving by the way!

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

before i forgot, i took the pics of my good pump. couldn't find a date code on it. the messed up 3.5 one was a 92 pump so original. after playing with manifolds and turbos, if i am able to use the non trap manifold, i will need to use the turbine housing and slim wastegate housing off the 3.5 engine. i can't use the wastegate actuator of the 3.5 though. it is a vacuum operated unit and was badly bent. will the arm on the wastegate flap being longer affect anything? seems like it would be better since it has better control with more length. i will of course have to adjust my actuator and drill the hole at the end larger to fit over the new levers pin with the c clip. i hope all that will work. also is the hot side the same between the 55 trim and 50 trim garrett turbos? if not, i can't put my original turbo in the 3.5's turbine housing.

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Yup, those are injectors and prechambers from a #14 head. They can be used in a #17 or later head but usually the prechamber has to be clearanced to fit properly. That injector might have run fuel with water in it (US 603s don't have a water separator) or insufficiently prepared WVO.



Again, screws on the front plate aren't a guaranty of a redesigned bearing. The pump was updated a couple of ways - first, the crimed cover was attached with screws so it doesn't leak oil as the seal hardens; second, the bearing was redesigned. FWIW, I have a couple of three spare latest style vacuum pumps.

You have to match the wastegate lever arm to the stroke of the actuator so though more arm means more control, it won't amount to much if it won't open or close all the way. IIRC I had a shop move the 55 trim pin closer to the pivot so it would work with the stroke of the 50 trim actuator. But you might find a third party actuator...

I don't know if the turbine sections are the same. Does the 50 trim turbine section attach to the non-trap manifold?

Sixto
MB-less

Dang it. I wonder how that happened. This was a 1992 300sd so it should have come with inclined injectors. Also, I think the injection pump is a standard 3.0L one. Has the head been machined to fit the old pre chambers or when I find a set of angled ones, can I install them no problem? That's all disappointing. As for the turbine sections, my 50 trim has studs coming out of it and so does the non trap manifold.

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Are you sure it's not a #14 head? If the injectors are good, why not use them? IIRC the nozzles are the same and that's where the magic happens. There's nothing inclined about the injectors themselves. If it's a later head, it'll take a very keen eye to know if the head was clearanced for early prechambers rather than the other way around. I imagine the prechambers were clearanced because it's a heck of a chore work in the prechamber pockets.

Manifold and turbo studs can be removed. Lots of penetrant, heat and a couple of nuts

Sixto
MB-less