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  #16  
Old 07-29-2012, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
You'll be surprised what some members will pick out of a few pictures.
Exactly !

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2012, 05:53 PM
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Useless w/o pics......

So here's a front view of Fritz.....



I'll get more this week.....
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2012, 06:02 PM
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Fritz looks pretty nice. Personally, I wouldn't buy one and have it repainted. It will never be done 100% unless you spend loads of money and if you are patient you can find your car with good original paint. Also remember that things will need to be addressed as you drive the car. Even with the low mileage, things like monovalve, ACC pods, A/C compressor, rear window sliders etc. etc. Lots of little things will start to deteriorate over time as well - the wood will start separating from the dashboard, the mirror visors will probably break, the dash might crack, you might need to replace the rear window when it starts to delaminate, etc. etc. Just don't expect a perfect car unless you put some sweat into it. It looks like a nice car though. Probably loads better than the E-Bay example with the black mirrors and deteriorated seats.

Also, if you buy it and the leather is in good shape - do yourself a favor and buy sheepskins for the front. The 80-84 leather was not as thick as later W126s. As a result it splits much more easily. Tough to find one with leather in nice shape.
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2012, 06:30 PM
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MBZ,

Thanks. I'm buying as to put miles on. Of course, like anyone else, want the best I can afford & won't something that won't leave me by the side of the road.

Looks like the gentleman that owned it was bumping into stuff, as the bumper covers need to be repainted. Most of the paint is good, with light oxidation just on the roof. The usual parking lot dings.....
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  #20  
Old 07-29-2012, 08:52 PM
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Very few of the 617's will ever leave you by the side of the road as long as you keep up with some basic maintenance. They'll often leave you without heat or AC or with bone jarring shifts and an inability to shut the engine off with the key. But leaving you by the side of the road, no.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #21  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:38 AM
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MBZ,

Thanks for the tip on the seat covers......Is there a suggested vendor for the sheepskin seat covers?

PK
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  #22  
Old 07-30-2012, 04:28 AM
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The paint is non metallic right? YOu are lucky there, as it is much more durable than the metallic and there is no clear coat to peel off. If it is dull it can be buffed to look good but will require attention on a regular basis to stay shiny.

At 115K miles I would expect to replace tie rod ends and little else.

If one shock is leaking you will want to change them all either now or after you take possession of it. On an older car unless I have good evidence of it already being done I will change the shocks and new tires and presto the car is majorly transformed.

If there is no evidence of it having been done I would change filter and fluid in the tranny too.

Once you get it you should do the leather with some sort of leather food on a regular basis and it will last a lot longer.

Many of the helpful comments above from members may well not apply to such a relatively low mileage car.

Good luck with it!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #23  
Old 07-30-2012, 06:52 AM
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t,

You are correct, it is not a metallic paint job. It's the original paint and shines pretty well. Very light oxidation on the roof, which as you said, should buff out. Seller has agreed to buff out & wax prior to taking delivery.

Tranny filter and fluid was just done, some I should be set there.

Thanks for your thoughts,

PK
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  #24  
Old 07-30-2012, 07:08 AM
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Forgot to mention that the car has a cracked dash. The seller has a good one he's throwing in (he picked up at a junkyard). What's involved in the swap and how difficult would it be to do this myself?

Thanks again all!
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  #25  
Old 07-30-2012, 08:20 AM
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True. In the 15 years I've owned mine, the only time I was stuck on the side of the road was because I was trying to stretch a tank of fuel too far...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Very few of the 617's will ever leave you by the side of the road as long as you keep up with some basic maintenance. They'll often leave you without heat or AC or with bone jarring shifts and an inability to shut the engine off with the key. But leaving you by the side of the road, no.
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  #26  
Old 07-30-2012, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giff View Post
Forgot to mention that the car has a cracked dash. The seller has a good one he's throwing in (he picked up at a junkyard). What's involved in the swap and how difficult would it be to do this myself?

Thanks again all!
I have not done one but I believe it is not technically difficult but is a chore getting to all the fasteners.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #27  
Old 07-30-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Very few of the 617's will ever leave you by the side of the road as long as you keep up with some basic maintenance. They'll often leave you without heat or AC or with bone jarring shifts and an inability to shut the engine off with the key. But leaving you by the side of the road, no.

We used to have a member here named Craig who routinely drove a 123 across country. Like every other week or so. He didn't like to fly and worked all around the nation. He had about 500k on the 123. I can recall two instances in which he was stranded. Once his vacuum pump went out and took out the timing chain and engine in Nebraska. He replaced that engine with a used engine. That used engine went out in Ohio and he replace it with a Metric engine I think. That's in probably 300k miles of driving.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #28  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:21 PM
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Just an FYI, here's where rust typically forms on these cars:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/288453-300sd-rust-restoration-project.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/304380-300sd-rust-restoration-project-2-a.html
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  #29  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:35 PM
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W126 Dashboard Replacement/Removal Instructions

Here is a DIY article I wrote on dashboard replacement in your car. It's a big project but if you start early and don't run into any problems you can finish it in a day. If you are concerned about cosmetics - I would recommend removing all the dash and door panel wood and sending it to Heritage Woodworks. I wouldn't normally recommend this project as a stand-alone but if you are going through the trouble of doing the dash you should do the wood, too. He has a special formula that improves the wood on two levels: (1) The wood will never again separate from the aluminum backing and (2) The clear veneer that goes over the wood will never crack. Something to think about.

It's been 10-15 years since I got my sheepskins, so I can't tell you where I got them - the place may not even be in business anymore. I think GAHH sells them. If not, get the MBCA Star Magazine and look in the back pages at the advertisements. Just make sure to buy the good ones. They will probably set you back a couple of hundred dollars for both front seats but will be a tremendous investment if you are trying to protect your leather. You will definitely want to treat it in the meantime as well.

With reference to the rust post: if I were buying this car one of the first things I would do is remove the battery and check for corrosion on the battery tray. Then take the battery tray out and check for corrosion underneath. If your battery tray is starting to rust, replace it immediately. It sounds like this is a good car so any rust beneath the tray is probably minor.
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2012, 05:20 PM
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JD,

Thanks for the rust thread. I'll look through it.

MBZ- Didn't see Sheepskins on the GAHH site, but I'll search it out & post my findings.

Thanks again,

PK

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