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  #1  
Old 02-21-2002, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 205
window problems all over the place!

So today I tackled my window problems. Only, I didn't get to fix them, only discovered them! My fromt right window was doing the nasty grinding clunk sound, so I assumed it was the teeth on the regulator that were all worn away. Well, it was the regulator, but the problem was it came out in two pieces!! The whole thing broke in half and that was what was clunking.



My other problem was the back left window. Nothing happened when I pressed the button in the front, or back. So I took the door panel off and theres nothing there! I think the motor is behind the access hole, where it is really hard to get to. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get it out. Even after removing the retaining bolts, it is still stuck solidly in there.



Can anyone help me and my lack of reasoning skills? Thanks a bunch.

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Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2002, 08:21 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
Swap out door window button

Greetings Sean,

You will probably waste your time removing the window motor on the back window as your problem most likely lies in the rear window switch which will keep the front button from operating it as well. Swap out the switch either from the other door or with a new one, and most likely you will fix your problem. Rear windows never see the use that the fronts do, so that's generally why the motors aren't the problem with them.

Charles
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"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2002, 05:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 205
I'll go try it right now. Thanks a bunch!
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Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2002, 06:00 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 509
What kind of car is it? I'm in power window purgatory with my '73 108 bodied car. I have tested the electric motors by (1) removing door panel, (2) unhooking the motor from the terminal block and (3) CAREFULLY using a battery charger to move the window up and down. All 4 of my motors work fine; The window channel is ancient, but they do go up and down fine. I am in the process of replacing the window channel (NOW THAT'S A PAIN), but I know I have a switch problem.

I took the switches apart (pretty destructive, not recommended) by prying the top of the switch off of the "ears" that keep it on. What I found is the plastic part that keeps spring tension on the contacts has melted. The motors must be laboring and causing too much current to draw. I don't believe my car has window relays. I think they were added to later cars. I am considerinig adding relays at the fuse block in the engine bay to protect my new switches (which I ordered from mercedesshop.com and got today--yeeah).

I could still have a wiring/contact/grounding problem somewhere.

My advice is to try to activate the window with an external source to eliminate the motor and guide.

Sholin

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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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