The difference between min and max mark on a 722 is 0.3 liter.

As to your question, you have have to look at the charts in section 2710 of the FSM to do the exact calculation for your particular 722.

__________________
Barrington, Rhode Island
1991 300D 2.5T "Otis", Smoke Silver, 107k miles (daily driver)
1992 300D 2.5T "Milo", Midnight Blue, 244k miles (teenage son driving)
1995 E300D, Black, 304k miles (other daily driver )

Seven other MB's owned and sold
2002 Honda Odyssey 163k miles (want to name it "Homer," but wife won't let me)
1961 Very Tolerant Wife (OK, I admit I ripped this off from another board member...but my wife was born in 1961 and she is very tolerant.)

My biggest issue isnt the technique, but the fact that the oil level as it appears on either side of the dipstick is inconsistent... It is higher on one than the other, and sometimes the oil falls off and there is no reading. This isnt just an MB issue. ATF measurements are very difficult for whatever reason...

__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (62k)
1991 BMW 318i (153K)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (61K)
2008 VW Rabbit (40k)
2011 BMW 135i cv (8k)
Had:
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)

Scuff the end of the stick with some sandpaper.

whom do you think developed the specifications? and whom designed the dipstick with a clearly defined range, delineated by minimum and maximum marks, which represent a 300 ml tolerance for acceptable fill level? are you implying that the range on the dipstick which was defined by mercedes benz engineers, is somehow incongruent with the specifications published by those same mercedes benz engineers? or perhaps you are implying that a warm fill level of anything less than the maximum mark is outside of said specifications? which of these bogus assertions is the one you're claiming as fact?

At idle with no load (in park) it takes a ridicules amount of time to bring it up to operating temperature.

The trick on a hoist is to brake torque.
The transmission builds thermal load rapidly when working against resistance.

You will be shocked at how fast the transmission builds heat from a cold start, when brake torquing.

Owners in the snow belt use this for getting faster climate control heat.

* Start the car.
* As soon as the engine is stable.
* Step firmly on the brake, and keep holding it.
* Shift to low gear.
* Accelerate to roughly 1500 - 2000 RPM.
* Hold the speed until the engine temperature hits 40°C.

If you start driving now, the heat will be comfortable.


.

Attached Files

	AR27.00-P-0100A_checking ATF oil level.pdf (81.6 KB, 33 views)
	W123_checking ATF oil level.pdf (87.8 KB, 15 views)

TB,

Originally Posted by compress ignite
3. I'm not even gonna address the Muffin Headed suggestion that I run my
Tranny "In an Operating Range" "Somewhere" "In the Neighborhood" of
the CAREFULLY PRODUCED SPECIFICATIONS.

What I'm "Referring to" is YOUR R.S. that we all follow your lackadaisical
approach to fluid level verification.

(Article # 1)
[ "i know this is an enthusiast site, but imo many of you are over-thinking this. remember that the dipstick has a range on it. minimum to maximum. so if your fill is off by 100 cc or so, it doesn't matter. at all. so long as you are still within the range. just like engine oil, you don't have be exactly precisely on the maximum line all.of.the.time. you can be a 1/2 quart below that and still be within the acceptable range for healthy normal operation." ]

What I'm implying is:
Y'all NEVER Fly with an MD as pilot in command.
AND
You're speaking out of both sides of your dipstick tube I.E.
Follow the specifications from Mercedes / Don't and use the RS (article #1) quoted above as the criteria.
Which is it ? You can't be suggesting we follow whatever whim strikes at the time? (as you claim to do)

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Roy

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

I hereby dub this thread the cold war!

__________________

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
2000 VW eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
OBK #42

Perhaps the thread should be renamed ever so slightly with out the word argument?

__________________
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

X2
Roy,
Same thing happens with a scraper. When loading ~ 30sec to 2 minutes, you can easily overheat your trans, (auto). When working in hard ground you always watch the trans oil temp. Conversely, you can leave it in neutral all day at idle & it wont get to operating temp. The TC is a big dissipator of heat. If there is any moisture in your trans fluid, it soon boils & you run out of drive quickly.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group maintainer/member

"Life is tough..it's even tougher if you're stupid." John Wayne

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....






1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 400k miles
1987 250td 90k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel

other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Please don't allow this topic to become personal.
This is an excellent question and topic, with good information.

You need to be aware of the technically misleading title...
It is easy to become confused due to conversion, standards, where and how the temperature is measured, etc.

He is not suggesting sub ZERO, or what your body could sense as cold...

FYI:

30°C= 86°F

40°C= 104°F

I have clearly stated my technical concern in using the 30°C - 40°C spec.
This does not mean it is useless, many times I use it for preliminary - rough fill after a rebuild.

Here is a bit of technical fact trivia.
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Laboratory standard ambient is assumed to be 70°F, unless explicitly defined for special testing.


I always have and always will point out the obvious facts.
* Do you own it?
* Do you pay the bills for it?
If both answers are yes, you are justified in taking the issue personally on your car.

If the answers are NO, please consider how antagonizing or offending the owner can possibly have a useful or good conclusion.


Have a great day.

Like he said. Its not the ambient temp or engine temp but the fluid temp. 70F is 21C so 12mm below min for me. I should get an IR thermometer.

__________________
'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'07 C230 37,000 miles