.

No, you don't


.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Here`s Army blindedly leading his troops into the unknown, slaying Dragons and Demons that lurkith with in his Puddle Jumper , writting yet another chapter in his book of knowledge, and his constant pursuit of daily DIY to be conqured.

Thanks Professor great job.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Good job.

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Jim

Thanks for the kind words folks.

I didn't get much of a chance to do anything today. I just took some pictures of the damage.

I've got a feeling this transmission will be a rubber necker's paradise.

First off here's the worn to the metal B1 brake band



I reckon they should have kept on driving it to see if it would eventually polish to a mirror finish.

Here's probably why the output shaft felt a bit rough



Really nasty pitted surface on the bit where the park pawl fits (I'll have to RTFM and find out what it is actually called!)



Rusty governor



It also has some spectacularly sharp edges on the drive cog. As does the cog that goes on the output shaft.



Look closely in the picture above - the middle part of the teeth are sharpened (by wear) - they are thinner than the outer edges.



I think I might have to ask the moderators to rename this thread to "what can possibly go wrong with a 722.3!"

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I've found lots of this type of debris in the back part of the transmission.

At the moment my guess is that these long thin springs were at one time in the governor.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks so much for the photos! I have a question for you:

I want to do the checks described here: http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.merc/97-20.pdf

It looks like that's the side of the valve body facing the filter. Does the valve body need to come off to do those checks?

Thanks,

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Hi Army,

As you showed an excellent picture of the bowden system, is there any chance that the cable can be wrongly connected in a way that it can have limited movement, My car has a 722.4xx trans - and I am facing a short shift problem, I cannot correct the timing of full accelerator upshifts because the main accelerator cable runs out of adjustment If I try to adjust the bowden.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Well never say never! But it sounds unlikely. If you remove the filter you can see the bit that the Bowden cable actuates on the valve body. I've added a square to the picture below showing where you need to look.



If you get someone to operate the Bowden cable up top you should be able to see the plunger going in and out of the valve body.

I'm not 100% sure it is a smart thing to operate the cable from the bottom up as it seems to be just hooked in there...

...be carefull with it - I don't want to be partly the cause of extra work of having to remove the Bowden cable because it has come unhooked inside the conduit.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I think you'll be OK

Looking at the shape of the drawing in the PDF file



It looks like the parts you need to access are at the front of the valve body.

Have a look for yourself in these pictures

Attached Thumbnails

       

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

When you dissect one of these and understand the idea of the thing...you want to run away and hug your manual gearbox...

It's amazing they last so long...let alone work in the first place.

__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Army. Much more than I could ever hope for IRT my post removing the B3 friction disks, great pic's and tutorial. Have a ? regarding post #10, your picture sequence shows removing the B3 clutch pack then the B1 brake band & drum. Is it not reverse of the actual disassy. Thanks again.

ARMY,

What a timely post! I have an '82 300SD, and just completely cleaned my valve body last week. I haven't put it back in, yet. I have 2 questions that I believe you can answer, as no one else, including various local MB dealers, seem to be able to answer:

1- What exactly does the "Converter Adaption Control Valve" do? (It sits next to the 3-4 Command Valve)
2- Does the Converter Adaption Control Valve have a spring with it or not?

I have two printouts, the FSM(?) for the 722.3/4 I downloaded and the ASTG book I bought for the 722.3/4. The FSM does NOT show a spring, (27.51, p. 4.8/5) but the ASTG (1991) DOES show a spring with the "Converter Adaption Control Valve" ( Upper Valve Body, Top View, ASTG 1991, p. 19). I'm confused!
When I re-assembled the valves, one at a time, there was NO spring, nothing, just the smooth-sliding valve. I saw no pieces or parts in the valve port, nor was there anything in the pan. Every other valve and spring set matched the ASTG. Did I somehow manage to lose a spring? Or was there no spring to begin with? Help! Please post photos of the valve body disassembly. Thanks,
Skaa

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1982 300SD 440+k miles

Nice thread Army

I always wanted to know what this things look like on the inside.
Maybe you can help me with some expert advice.

My 85 300D, the one with new engine, downshifts hard into first gear.
All other up and downshifts are fine.
When I first drove the car, all gears shifted hard.
After i adjusted the modulator the trans shifted better except for first gear down shift.
I could have made a mistake with all the vacuum lines, because I don't have a diagram for this model, but then all gears should shift hard.

Any advice.

Thanks
Tom

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76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.

You're correct - I got the order of the text and the pictures the wrong way round - thanks for that. I've corrected the post now.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

How did you make the adjustment Tom? Did you use a pressure gauge? Have you checked the vacuum system is working correctly?

This thread over on Benz World has lots of information that can help

DIY W123 Transmission Diagnose and Adjustment 722.xx OM 616-7 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!