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  #16  
Old 08-28-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDBSO View Post
I went to the web page and:
"ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE."
CA was mentiond spcifically said no to in the Terms of Sale agreement.


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  #17  
Old 08-28-2012, 06:54 PM
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kano labs products are awesome, they actually work. i love kroil for rusted fasteners. of course it's probably illegal in california, just like everything else on earth.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2012, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I went to the web page and:
"ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE."
CA was mentiond spcifically said no to in the Terms of Sale agreement.
I am down to 1 and a half, how many would you like to have transshipped?
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2012, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDBSO View Post
I am down to 1 and a half, how many would you like to have transshipped?
I don't think I have a need of any.

When I has constant Hazy Gray Smoke coming out of the Volvo Diesel Marvel Mystery Oil worked and cured the smoke issue.

When I did the same soak on the Mercedes (no Tail Pipe Smoke but has Blow-by) there was no change at all. So I don't think I have any stuck Rings on the Mercedes.
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2012, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If your Blow-by is being caused or increased due to sticking Piston Rings Synthetic Motor Oil might decrease the Blow-by. But, I think there is only a small chance of that working.

There is at least several thread on ways to route the Blow-by out of the Air Filter Housing so that it does not contaminate your Air filter.

If you are going to try something like Motor Honey in your Oil you should use single Viscosity Oil because part of what that stuff does is increase the Viscosity of the Oil. I don't think it is a good idea to put it into Multiviscosity Oil because it messes with the multiviscosity part.

I have also seen on a Diesel Generator set where increasing the Oil Viscosity also increased the Oil Consumption.
My 85 SD had some blowby. Just for the hell of it, I put some 5w40 Lubro Moly Full Synthetic that NAPA sells for winter easy starting purposes. It also cured the blowby. Evidently the rings were sooted up and the synthetic oil helped to free them. No WVO used BTW. Its worth a try.
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  #21  
Old 09-19-2012, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDBSO View Post
I have used Kreen. It DOES work. I had a GM 6.5 diesel with some blow-by. I ran the Kreen in it and after around 500 miles, the blowby was GONE. I mean, you open the oil filler, and it just doesn't puff anymore!

That says to me that in the case of the 6.5, it was likely varnish or coking on the cylinder walls.

I will say the exhaust STINKS with the Kreen. It's really quite bad. The smell of Kreen is not for the faint-hearted, and I would say that it is likely quite toxic.

That said, the stuff does seem to work.

Sincerely,

Packman
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  #22  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:16 AM
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When you have so much crank case pressure that it's pushing oil out the dipstick tube, then your blowby is excessive (and I had an old 351 Ford that did that and I drove it that way for a year and a half). Until then, you're still generally ok.
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  #23  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:36 AM
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I had blow running wvo I quit using it now 1.5 years blow by gone
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  #24  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I went to the web page and:
"ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE."
CA was mentiond spcifically said no to in the Terms of Sale agreement.
If they don't sell it in California it must be pretty good stuff
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  #25  
Old 09-20-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisArnt View Post
85 300d. High miles. Smoke wisps from fill cap anid vent tube to filter. car has great power though.
this sounds like normal operation on a well maintained car to me.
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  #26  
Old 09-20-2012, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
this sounds like normal operation on a well maintained car to me.
This is what I was thinking.
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  #27  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
this sounds like normal operation on a well maintained car to me.
X3!!
It doesnt sound like you have a blow by problem.
If you must add snake oil to fix a problem you dont have, go ahead. The US economy needs all the help it can get !
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  #28  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:08 PM
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Leave it to a nOOb to revive an oil thread (sorry).....but it sounds as if "blow-by" is being used as a general term here.

I always considered blow-by as a worn ring(s) term, where the oil from the crankcase makes it's way by the rings into the combustion chamber.

Here it sounds as if it's being used as a general term, where lower viscosity oils sneaking by any worn part (in a high miles car) thru valve seals, IP etc.

By using a higher (multi-grade) viscosity oil, it should prevent some of this oil sneaking by these worn spots....no?

So: 0-40W, where the "0" is REALLY thin. 15W-40 starts out thicker....so yeah, you give up the "thinner oil" or "0" qualities on cold starts, but maybe the "15" oil would not blow by these (worn) passages?

Had an old timer that use to put gear oil in his "high miles" truck to thicken up the oil and prevent oil burning (of course, it was a gasser). Forget if he distinguished between rings & valve seals...

Just curious???
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  #29  
Old 10-16-2012, 02:31 PM
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In order of incremental cost & effort.
Make sure oil separator is clear & working.
Keep up w/ oil use.
Check vacuum system for leaks (vac pump exhausts to crankcase).
MMO/kroil/etc. your stuck ring fix of choice.
Find & swap replacement motor.
Rebuild existing motor.

I just swapped. Shoulda done it years ago. Oil ain't cheap at a quart a week. In the long run it cost more than a swap, headed towards rebuild territory.
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  #30  
Old 10-16-2012, 07:25 PM
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If it is bad rings, you can try two products - AutoRX or Kreen. Id probably run Kreen in there.

You arent going to see a ton of difference between a 40 and 50wt oil, but if you were to go that route, Id find a Schaeffer dealer online and add their #132.

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