While still trying to track down my air leak in the fuel system, I decided to re-tighten the banjo bolts on the secondary filter housing. The banjo with the fuel running from the filter to the IP snapped in half while tightening. I have searched the parts and can't find a replacement. This bolt has a 17mm head.

Anyone know where I might be able to locate one?

Thank you!

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'85 300TD- current toy
'04.5 Cummins- Daily Driver
'70 Chevelle- under construction
'63 Split Window- under construction

The Junkyard or the Dealer.

You will also need new Crush Washers or you will likely snap another one if you try to stop a leak by tightening it.

I don't know if Hydraulic Shops carry them in the proper size or not.

Also the Secondary Filter is on the pressure side of the System. It is unlikely that anything on that side of the System would cause an Air Leak.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you know the bolt length, diameter, and thread size, couldn't you just buy a regular bolt and drill it out? Just wondering if it would be simple enough or not??

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
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1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

With out a drill press drilling down the center of a Bolt would be challenging.
Drilling the cross holes on a Drill Press would even be a little harder without a Drill Press Vice.
The drilling into a Grade 5 Bolt requires a reasonable quality share Drill Bit.

Not impossible to do but in My case if I hustled down to the Junk Yard it would even take me less time to remove one and come Home then it would to round up the Tools and Drill one out; and I have a Lathe that would make drilling it out even easier.

And, getting a New Bolt to Drill could cost you $2 each.

There must be one of our Members in His area that has a parts Car that could get on to Him.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, junk yard.

You need two crush washers, one on either side of the banjo bolt itself.

I have one, but it's part of a newer style fuel filter head unit.

What are you willing to pay for it?

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83 SD

84 CD

I think He broke one of the ones on the side because He said the Bolt has a 17mm Head on it. I beleve the Center Filter bolt has a larger head.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That is a steel bolt going into an aluminum housing. that is some serious torque to snap it off, wonder what damage was done to the threads on the housing?

I agree with getting a bolt from PNP. I think the whole filter housing is around $15, but you pull it. If you do replace the housing make sure in the part#, the 2 #`s from the last is "02". don`t need the crush washer under the center bolt head, just the 2 "O" rings.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I found one at my local German Auto repair shop. They searched through a few random parts bins and found one for me. Free of charge too. Got some crush washers from a local hydraulic shop, who I figured would have the bolt, but they didn't have the right size.

I really wasn't torque-ing it too hard. Just snugging it down. Snapped right where the cross holes are. The threaded portion was still in the housing and spun right out. Got lucky on this one I guess.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help. My next stop was the junk yard.
I can only imagine trying to drill a grade 8 bolt. HA, have to video tape that one and edit out all the bleeps!

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'85 300TD- current toy
'04.5 Cummins- Daily Driver
'70 Chevelle- under construction
'63 Split Window- under construction

If it still has the original Aluminum Cursh Washers on it I bet the Previousl Owner it the one who over tightened it. The Aluminum ones cannot be reused as often and would take more tighening to stop a leak.

I made a central Filter Bolt for the Below Baldwin Filter Mod.
Lower Micron Fuel Filter Mod

But, I heated the Bolt up Red Hot and cooled it slowly to soften it (no need for high strength for this application) before I drilled it and I had a Lathe to allow me to drill down the exact center.

It would have been a trying job for Me on a Drill Press and nearly impossible for Me to do it with a Drill Motor.

I have met extremely well cordinated People who can do that sort of thing with a Drill Motor in their Hand but I am not one of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Radiator shop or a brake shop. Hydraulic shops won't have it.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I understand which bolt he's referring to, the other 17mm is the three way return bolt.

Crush washers on either side of the fitting, yes, the spin on filter bolt is larger, mine is 24mm. The bolt from the lift pump is 19 mm.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD

I can't seem to get the pushrod out. It budged a little but definitely stuck in there. It seems to me that the pushrod should move pretty freely. (?)

I have narrowed the air leak to somewhere at the lift pump. I can see bubbles coming up to the secondary spin-on filter through the (not-so) clear line. None going to the lift pump.

I am tempted to just order a new lift pump, but at $173 I don't know if I want to drop the money on it. May hunt some junk yards and see if I can get a spare just to test.

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'85 300TD- current toy
'04.5 Cummins- Daily Driver
'70 Chevelle- under construction
'63 Split Window- under construction

Very excited. I can hardly contain myself! So I suspected the lift pump, since I could not get the push rod out to check the o-ring (would hardly budge). I hit a couple junk yards to no avail. My last stop was the trusty old German Auto repair shop. Picked up a new (old) lift pump with an original push primer. The mechanic tested it by pressing down on the roller/push rod and it would push in and spring back out. At that point, I knew mine had a problem.

I swapped out the lift pumps and primed up the system. I was still getting air bubbles. I couldn't start the car due to a completely dead battery. Wouldn't charge up enough and it would jump off my truck either. So, I was still fiddle farting around with everything. This morning I got it started and had air bubbles in the return lines from the IP and return to tank. I figured I should go ahead and change the lines at the tank (supply and return) while I was changing all the fuel lines. Well, I still had air bubbles...

I figured what the heck and took it for a test drive. She is running like a scalded dog! I mean quick! I had removed the ALDA some time back but it's never run long enough to feel the effects. Anyway, I drove around for a good 20 mins and never once a hick-up or stutter. Very happy with it.

I am just not going to worry about the air bubbles in the return lines. As long as she runs, I am happy! Thanks to everyone for the help!

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'85 300TD- current toy
'04.5 Cummins- Daily Driver
'70 Chevelle- under construction
'63 Split Window- under construction

For anyone else who might be looking for the same banjo bolt as in the original post (outlet from fuel filter housing going to the IP), here is the info:

Original MB Part Number: 915011-00-6104
New MB Part Number: 000000-00-6772
MSRP: $16.50
Diameter: 11.8 mm
Length: 24.5 mm
Head: 17 mm
Thread: 1.50 mm

In other words, it's a M12X1.50 hollow bolt.

Original MB bolt has 3 holes. New MB bolt has 4 holes.

However, Volvo has the same bolt for cheaper. Only difference is the Volvo bolt has 2 holes but otherwise it's a perfect match. Volvo part number 973950, and it costs around $8.

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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi

or you can just go get a M12x1.5 regular bolt, and drill holes in it... ya gots to drill the head anyway, just go all the way through.

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