Front end rebuild - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DieselGuy53 · #16 10-17-2012, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

Roy, this is an invalid thread

Charlie

^
X2 Roy, please get the link fixed...

whunter · #17 10-17-2012, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselGuy53

^
X2 Roy, please get the link fixed...

Sorry about that, it is repaired now..

benzdude42 · #18 10-17-2012, 12:12 PM

So I went through and looked at the brand names, wasn't thinking about it at the time, and changed my mind on some of the parts. Are the parts on this website all good brands? I'm a poor college student so I can't go the real Mercedes parts rout

I'm looking for tie rods and the control arm, I did find some OEM shocks for $60 each though.

JamesDean · #19 10-17-2012, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benzdude42

So I went through and looked at the brand names, wasn't thinking about it at the time, and changed my mind on some of the parts. Are the parts on this website all good brands? I'm a poor college student so I can't go the real Mercedes parts rout

I'm looking for tie rods and the control arm, I did find some OEM shocks for $60 each though.

Shocks: Bilstein.

Other parts:

(my normal brand preference order)
Lemforder
Febi/Bilstein
Meyle

benzdude42 · #20 10-17-2012, 01:14 PM

Is this something I could do with basic tools, or am I going to need some special tool to take the front end apart? I'm planning on buying new control arms.

JamesDean · #21 10-17-2012, 01:16 PM

You'll definitely need a spring compressor. Ball joint separator.

Basically:

Upper control arms can be done without removing the spring. Separate the upper control arm from the spindle and sway bar. Replace control arm and sway bar bushings. Reconnect everything.

Lower control arms cannot be done without removing the spring.
I dont believe guide rods can be either.

benzdude42 · #22 10-17-2012, 01:38 PM

Is it a bad idea to drive around on a dry rotted front end? I'll take a picture tonight of it. But I've been driving on it for about a year or maybe 10k miles

JamesDean · #23 10-17-2012, 01:40 PM

I mean as long as the components metal is in tact.. I suppose the worst you would do is eat up tires? Probably a decently crappy ride. At the extreme, maybe bend a guide rod slightly.

benzdude42 · #24 10-17-2012, 01:46 PM

Well trust me, my Benz makes others look bad. It doesn't smoke or look bad, tell you look deeper, but has a loud tick/knock and leaks oil from the RMS and oil pan. Compression is about 275 cold, if I did the test right, but doesn't ack like it.

JamesDean · #25 10-17-2012, 01:54 PM

How many miles are on this beast?

I think most SD leak some fluid or another. It goes with the territory. I've never performed a comp test on my SDs so idk where they are.

benzdude42 · #26 10-17-2012, 02:16 PM

Idk on the engine. It's the 123w body with a 300sd engine and transmission in it. I got the car for $1000 and the seller put in a different engine for $500. But for some reason replace the good old transmission too:/ so no speedo or anything related to it. The body had 216k and I put 10k on it, so 226k. He said the engine had 136k but its pretty worn out for being so low; guessing the junk yard ripped him off. I slowly replace things when I have the money and want to work on it. It is however the most reliable car I have seen! Never breaks down or leaves me stranded as long as oil is in it.

JamesDean · #27 10-17-2012, 02:19 PM

Wait.. you have no speedo? If you're in a 123 body, the PO would have had to either swap the tailshaft off the 123's tranny or used the original tranny that was on the 123. The 123's speed is mechanically driven.

Diesel911 · #28 10-17-2012, 02:50 PM

Lower Ball Joint Separator for a W123
Lower Ball Joint Separator for W123