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  #16  
Old 11-05-2012, 08:25 PM
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On my car, the bearing was a tight fit on the axle. I could move the crush collar with my fingers.

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  #17  
Old 11-06-2012, 02:00 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
I disagree. What's the difference between crushing a new sleeve and crushing a used sleeve to the same dimension? I recently had one of mine apart to lube the bearings. I returned the lock nut to its original location, as I re-used the original bearings. The purpose of the sleeve is to establish a minimum distance between the inner races while still being able to make the retaining nut tight enough that it won't come loose. Without the sleeve, you couldn't do this- the bearings would be so tight they wouldn't turn.
Rear wheel bearing and CV axle removal
Rear wheel bearing and CV axle removal
Rear wheel bearing and CV axle removal
Wheel bearing


Bearing crush sleeve detailed data on how and WHY you need a new one every time...

wheel Bearing crush sleeve

Frequently Asked Questions

Crush Sleeve Weak.....Fact or Fiction?

Google results on topic.


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  #18  
Old 11-06-2012, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
I disagree. What's the difference between crushing a new sleeve and crushing a used sleeve to the same dimension? I recently had one of mine apart to lube the bearings. I returned the lock nut to its original location, as I re-used the original bearings. The purpose of the sleeve is to establish a minimum distance between the inner races while still being able to make the retaining nut tight enough that it won't come loose. Without the sleeve, you couldn't do this- the bearings would be so tight they wouldn't turn.
It looks like we'll have to agree to disagree on this one then.

If you've re-installed your wheel bearings with the old crush sleeve please make sure at regular intervals that the hub isn't coming loose for the sake of your safety and the safety of others. I think it is potentially a dangerous fix - the only part that now holds the hub in the trailing arm assembly is the tubular spacer, bolt and the washer that goes between the axle and outer surface of the hub. If you reused the crush sleeve I bet you didn't replace this washer either - that's also a part that gets distorted during installation and should also be fitted just the once...
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I picked up those pullers this weekend. They were even cheaper than the online ad. $18.99. If they only work once each I'll have gotten my money's worth. I bought the big socket years ago to work on a customer's car but never ended up using it. So now I'll finally get to. I also picked up a used rear disk to beat on to get the hub out. Now I just need to get some wheel bearings, and hopefully all goes well.
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2012, 01:34 PM
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I've just remembered a tip about the wheel bearings - when I did mine I kept the original wheel bearings as they were still like new ones; I went to the dealer to get the crush sleeve and the seals and the nut etc and I found out later that the cost there was way in excess of a kit including the bearings from people like Febi etc...

...now I'm not recommending Febi bearings (I don't know if they are any good - or by whom they are made) but those kits are probably worth getting just for the ancillary bits (even if you keep the original bearings).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #21  
Old 11-06-2012, 02:21 PM
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I figured I'd buy the whole kit. My driver's rear wheel clunks back and forth badly, so I figure I'd should replace everything. I pulled the axle stub out of the hub this weekend, and I could see bits of bearing material. So I'm sure it's all toast. Might even just fall out when I remove the big nut.
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2012, 11:50 PM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
I figured I'd buy the whole kit. My driver's rear wheel clunks back and forth badly, so I figure I'd should replace everything. I pulled the axle stub out of the hub this weekend, and I could see bits of bearing material. So I'm sure it's all toast. Might even just fall out when I remove the big nut.
The Bearing crush sleeve never comes in any kit.


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  #23  
Old 11-07-2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
The Bearing crush sleeve never comes in any kit.
Good to know. Is that the same as this you posted earlier:1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
The Bearing crush sleeve never comes in any kit.


.
I thought it was in the febi one - if not sorry about that - my bad (as you guys in the US say!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2012, 06:21 AM
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Hey, possibly related question:
My 81 240D's drivers side rear wheel seems to rub on the trailing arm? Tends to wear out tires pretty quickly.

Is this possibly a bad installation like the one you guys are discussing?

I had a mechanic replace my rear axles the first year I had the car so maybe something got messed up in the process?
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  #26  
Old 11-07-2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus View Post
Hey, possibly related question:
My 81 240D's drivers side rear wheel seems to rub on the trailing arm? Tends to wear out tires pretty quickly.

Is this possibly a bad installation like the one you guys are discussing?

I had a mechanic replace my rear axles the first year I had the car so maybe something got messed up in the process?
Are you sure the wheel is rubbing on the trailing arm?

If so I think there would be something seriously and obviously wrong. Take a look at this picture to see what you think =>



(here I'm messing about with an aluminium 107 / 126 trailing arm but the dimensions are pretty similar)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 11-07-2012, 01:49 PM
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Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Good to know. Is that the same as this you posted earlier:1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer
Yes, that is the correct part.
Harbor Freight Hub Puller


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Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
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Fleet Durability
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I thought it was in the febi one - if not sorry about that - my bad (as you guys in the US say!)
OK I was bored - and courtessy of elchivito who posted this picture here (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/open-discussion/329118-merry-guy-fawkes-night.html) =>



I see on febi.com that the W123 wheel bearing set febi p/n 08840 shows a picture of the crush sleeve.

(Actually looking at that picture it is rather rude - read the text that's what I mean - I flip no bird!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:38 PM
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Is the crush sleeve pictured in the bottom right in the photo below. If so looks like the kits pelican parts sells have it.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2012, 02:30 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Is the crush sleeve pictured in the bottom right in the photo below. If so looks like the kits pelican parts sells have it.
That is the only kit I have seen with the bearing preload CRUSH spacer.
As I recall, it goes out of stock several times per year in North America.


.

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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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