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#1
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Here's what I'd try and do to save the battery a bit. I'm not 100% certain this will work on a hand pump but it is a little bit like the high pressure timing check detailed in chapter 07-109.
Find where begin of delivery on #1 cylinder should be just about happening - start at say 30 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke. Pressurise the fuel system with the hand pump after cracking the hard line at the injector for cylinder #1. Turn the crank to about 24 to 20 BTDC and see if you can get any fuel out. If the hand pump is strong enough you should start to get some fuel out. If that works then I'll work out where to roughly put the crank for the compression stroke on #2... (I assume that you haven't been doing a drip test since the engine last ran)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#2
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Thanks, I'll try that, Army.
No, I didn't do any drip test to set IP timing, nor did I check timing chain stretch either. My main concern was to first at least get the car running before doing those. |
#3
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Quote:
...which leads me on to think about an alternative if this doesn't work! Can you guess what it is yet? (See chapter 07-110 para 4!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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