123 rear wheel bearing end play - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Biodiesel300TD · #1 11-10-2012, 08:46 PM

How much wiggle can you feel on a rear 123 wheel with new wheel bearings and torqued properly? I just put in a new rear wheel bearing on my 78 240D. I checked the end play as per the FSM and had it within spec. Wheel felt good no wiggle. I got everything all buttoned back up and took the car for a drive. And now I am feeling end play wiggle when I push back and forth on the sides of the tire. I assume I shouldn't get any wiggle if all is setup properly. Is that the case?

Diesel911 · #2 11-10-2012, 09:40 PM

What is the Dial indicator Reading now?

I have never occurred to me to yank on the Wheels but I did check both of My Rear Wheel Hubs once and they were within speck. Meaning I don't think they are supposed loosen up in use unless there is a problem.

Maybe the Hub Nut came loose?

I am assuming you used a new Crush Collar.

Biodiesel300TD · #3 11-10-2012, 09:50 PM

I used all new parts. I thought it was reading between the .0015" and .0023" that dmorrison posted in his DIY. I checked it several times rotating the hub then checking then rotating some and checking again. I'll have to check it again tomorrow.

Diesel911 · #4 11-10-2012, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

I used all new parts. I thought it was reading between the .0015" and .0023" that dmorrison posted in his DIY. I checked it several times rotating the hub then checking then rotating some and checking again. I'll have to check it again tomorrow.

When you re-check it you will know for sure if it is loose or not.

foolio · #5 11-11-2012, 12:05 AM

Did you make sure to bend in the edges of the slot nut after tightening so it won't back off?

Biodiesel300TD · #6 11-11-2012, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foolio

Did you make sure to bend in the edges of the slot nut after tightening so it won't back off?

I did, I actually had to take the axle back out, after getting it all reassembled cause I forgot to do it. I didn't run it like that, I got the edges bent in before I drove it. But I can certainly see things changing a little after you put the weight of the car on the bearings, and drive on it a bit. I'll check the end play again tomorrow, and tighten it up if needed.

Carpenterman · #7 11-11-2012, 10:07 AM

When I did my rear bearings, I carefully followed the procedure and thought I had the bearings all set using the dial indicator. When I next had the car up on the lift, I was surprised to find a considerable amount of play on one side. Not sure what was going on, but I retightened the play to specifications and it has stayed that way. I'm sure I had the races bottomed out when I installed them and of course I used new crush washers.

Still a mystery as to why the bearings loosened, but it happened to me.

barry12345 · #8 11-11-2012, 11:41 AM

Races not totally at the bottom on their seats is a reasonable assumption. Under load they may have moved a little closer.

. Seen even pro mechanics not get them seated properly. Cannot see the diameter of the bearings changing that fast. There are not many choices of what the cause may be if they become loose that quick.

Oracle12345 · #9 11-11-2012, 11:47 AM

the rear wheel bearing should have a few thousandths play like any wheel bearing like 3 or so. As for it loosening up make sure u hit it with punch so it doesnt move. If you dont hit it with a punch it will loosen up when u drive. make sure the races are fully pressed in too.

Biodiesel300TD · #10 11-11-2012, 04:43 PM

So I rechecked the endplay. I was originally rocking the hub back and forth, pushing on one side and pulling on the other. Then I tried pushing and pulling the whole hub in and out. I put another full turn on the nut, and I can't tighten it anymore but I've still got too much play. The wheel still audibly clunks back and forth when I wiggle the whole wheel. I'm at a bit of a loss. I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace the hub and trailing arm.

rscurtis · #11 11-11-2012, 04:51 PM

You probably have to collapse the crush collar a little more.

Biodiesel300TD · #12 11-11-2012, 05:56 PM

I'll have to find a better way than lug bolts and a big pipe to torque the hub. I Couldn't get it to go anymore.

Carpenterman · #13 11-12-2012, 09:48 AM

Yea, by the time I made the last adjustment, I was at the practical limits of my crow bar/2 lug bolt method of holding the hub. I was afraid of deforming the lug holes or breaking a bolt. It's always a fun time when the crow bar flys off as well.

I wonder what the pros use to hold the hub--especially when it's on a lift and you can't jam something against the ground? I was thinking I'd have to fabricate a plate with five holes to match the hub so I could use all the bolts fully tightened down with a couple of sturdy studs welded on to secure against.

Because of the crush washer, it's too bad you can't preload the bearings like you can with the fronts. Although I guess all that torque is a form of preload.

Diesel911 · #14 11-12-2012, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carpenterman

Yea, by the time I made the last adjustment, I was at the practical limits of my crow bar/2 lug bolt method of holding the hub. I was afraid of deforming the lug holes or breaking a bolt. It's always a fun time when the crow bar flys off as well.

I wonder what the pros use to hold the hub--especially when it's on a lift and you can't jam something against the ground? I was thinking I'd have to fabricate a plate with five holes to match the hub so I could use all the bolts fully tightened down with a couple of sturdy studs welded on to secure against.

Because of the crush washer, it's too bad you can't preload the bearings like you can with the fronts. Although I guess all that torque is a form of preload.

Of course Mercedes has a set of Special Tools for the whole job.

If you have an old Rear Brake Rotor you would Weld an Arm onto it.

I bought some Tires/Wheels at the Junk Yard that are Steel. One of the Steel Wheels could also be converted with an Arm.

If you made the Arm removable (the Factory Tool has a removable Arm) you could also use the old Rotor to attach a Slide Hammer to. Although the weight of a complet Rotor would use up some of the Slide Hammer Energy.