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  #31  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: san marcos, Texas
Posts: 428
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
can you explain how a bigger turbo would lower egt's ?

I'm no turbo expert, but I thought more power made heat...

unless you mean that a turbo spooling differently or fueling differently would lower egt's

I know that overfueling will cause more heat, so adding extra air to existing fuel could lower temps...
explain your reasoning please, thanks!
wowe wowe wowe. it was a more "scarface" state of mind response as in "first you get the money, then you get the power, then you get the women." do you not get it? run small turbo hard to limits...get bigger turbo. run bigger turbo hard to limits...get holset. YES! and yes there are lots and lots and lots of assumptions in there as to tuning and $ spent to get there.

i guess i had better stop having so much fun and being in a silly mood. i feel like i've stumbled into an old AOL message board or something.



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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
... editing words into someone's quoted text is against the rules... I'll FIX your fix...
this might be the only place in internetz that's not down with ftfy.

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1982 300sd from craigslist $800 greased on one tank with NO CONVERSION in the Hot Texas Sun. (currently dead & awaiting engine damage investigation and/or longblock swap)
new daily: '03 vw 5speed jetta tdi wagon. bagged&chipped

Last edited by pgringo; 11-21-2012 at 11:25 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-22-2012, 01:47 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Columbia Valley, BC, Canada
Posts: 119
Guys are always trying to make the point that the stock design is so great and doesn't need changing because it draws a small charge air from in front of the radiator and already flows more air than the engine could ever possibly use without different manifolds and porting the head. That's all good and fine, but the stock assembly is a needlessly gargantuan POS that rattles around like a bag of pots and pans, and self destructs far too often for my liking. It sucks nasty oil all over the inside of the housing making a huge mess (when it's not leaking all over the rest of the place), and consequently makes any servicing of the intake very unappealing to me. The fact that the steel housing for the filter sits on top of a very heat centric location on the engine and does in fact get hot itself does kinda defeat a bit of the "cold air intake" argument. The fact is though - these aren't high performance (and are bad platform for making high HP at that) cars and as long as comparable filters are used - probably will be effected very little in engine life and performance by a change between systems at this point in their life cycle. These things are 30 years old by now and I don't think there's too many daily drivers that will live to the point where it would have noticeable adverse effect on either measurement.

The system I have now is compact and effective. It draws air from right where the mouth of the collector in front of the rad exits. It's simple to inspect, service, and replace. It doesn't use the stock crankcase vent or drain that always seems to leak, but I haven't put in any solutions. Thanks for that link, btw.

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1981 300SD - 283,000 KM's at purchase, 360k+ now. Engine replaced at 311k. 16" CLK wheels, w126 gen II cosmetic upgrades, late w126 leather interior. RIP. Parted and gone due to fire

1987 300SDL - 243K miles and counting. In winter hibernation!

2001 Ford F250 Super Duty "Platinum Edition" Lariat 4x4 7.3L turbo diesel, 295k+ miles, various mods for reliability and performance.
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