|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Never had to drill door-striker screws, but I've used cobalt drill-bits for extra-tough jobs, like broken crankshaft bolts.
Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'd be careful when drilling out SS bolts, if you drill too quickly you can heat the bolt enough to work harden it. Drill slow speeds with a hard bit made for SS, like Tungsten Carbide.
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes! 1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k 1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered 1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold] |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
I forgot I had opened a thread about this issue. Here is a link.
Door striker replacement - help removing bolts
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
No, you need to move it towards the seat (inboard) if the door edge sticks out due to new seals. I also have this issue on my CD. Got everything perfect, but cannot get that door striker right so that the door is flush. It is well sealed, it just sticks out a tiny bit...
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
Bookmarks |
|
|