Got the 1985 300TDT - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 12-16-2012, 07:59 AM

the kick down switch is under the fuel pedal... there is an A/C cut out switch on the valve cover of 85's.

Adriel · #17 12-16-2012, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

Hey Adriel:

Good to see you "getting into" the car.

Yeah, sorry the seat didn't turn out better, but a couple of the cracks suddenly got much worse, so something had to be done. I'm keeping my eye out for a good used seat bottom cover for you.

I think you'll be fine with cleaning the hazard switch, also. Like I said in our Email stream, it's in a bad spot- especially when you have a pup- they love to stand on the console and work the windows and the flasher!

Now, as to "not touching" the linkage... I think from what we discussed and you responded, that you're going to mark original positions and not just adjust willy- nilly, so have at it. Just try to do it logically, and do things a little at a time... "less is more".

Incidentally, the injection pump actually has a brand- new rack damper bolt, and it needed to be screwed in all the way. The new one required to be screwed in farther than the old one- which I just replaced because it was original! For a Diesel, that one idles smoother than most others I've serviced and driven, even with it in gear at full op temp even with the A/c at full cold.

Anyhow- enjoy the car, and let me know when you get back home- I have another box of spare parts to assemble and get off to you.

I have to say that, so far, that 300TDT was the best car we've ever owned overall. Annette loves the "new" E320 4Matic wagon, but time will tell if it is as tough and reliable as the old W123.

if you need anything else... yell.

I am, but find it frustrating, as sometimes getting answers are like pulling hippopotamus teeth. I am thinking most of it is me, and might need to make a separate post for EVERY question and not have a "build thread" like theSamba.

Interesting the cracks got worse. Fine, then I retract what I said. I will see if I can find the list of used parts, since you are so kind to help and keep an eye out.

I believe cleaning will help too, thus why I like to get the sunroof taken care of.

I was trying to squelch the thinking one can just adjust the linkage and live happily ever after. Guess I should had added about marking...

I figured the rack dampener was just fine. I will say though sometimes when we would shut the engine off, it do one last violent jerk that rocks the wagon. It seemed to do it less if the the engine was idled for a time.

I have to enjoy it, as we are married for life! l.o.l.

Yep, think it will be my best as will last a long time if I care for her.

Fine, will holler for help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

Oh, just one more thing... Traditionally, M-B matched the wheel covers to the top on two- tone cars, so if you leave the top white and paint the body moss green eventually... Problem solved!

I figured I leave the caps white, so good to know that it is the traditional method.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the kick down switch is under the fuel pedal... there is an A/C cut out switch on the valve cover of 85's.

Yep, under the pedal is also what Tram said, so good to know.

Can you explain or show what the A/C cut out switch is?

Again, thank you all for the help!

Tanksowner · #18 12-16-2012, 12:46 PM

Solid looking wagon. Best of luck!

vstech · #19 12-16-2012, 05:53 PM

the a/c cutout switch is exactly what it sounds like. an electrical switch on the valve cover that disconnects the compressor if you floor the accelerator pedal enough to engage the kick down. it removes the compressor load from the vehicle if you are accelerating hard enough to need full throttle.

Phillytwotank · #20 12-16-2012, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the fuel pedal...

found only in MBZ

tram · #21 12-16-2012, 06:01 PM

Adriel, just a FYI: Let the engine idle for thirty seconds to a couple minutes in park before shutting down after driving. This is good practice to cool the turbo, especially after a long highway drive.

An intermittent shudder at shutdown is another "nature of the beast" kind of thing. The new motor mounts are OEM, not aftermarket, so they can handle it. If letting it idle for a few before shutting down eliminates the shut down shake, doing this also benefits the turbo anyways, as I pointed out, so what's not to like?

Adriel · #22 12-16-2012, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tanksowner

Solid looking wagon. Best of luck!

So far, that is what it appears. Doesn't seem as if it ever lived on the coast, so reall good chance. Though the sunroof leak does concern me...

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the a/c cutout switch is exactly what it sounds like. an electrical switch on the valve cover that disconnects the compressor if you floor the accelerator pedal enough to engage the kick down. it removes the compressor load from the vehicle if you are accelerating hard enough to need full throttle.

Thank you for the through explanation!

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

Adriel, just a FYI: Let the engine idle for thirty seconds to a couple minutes in park before shutting down after driving. This is good practice to cool the turbo, especially after a long highway drive.

An intermittent shudder at shutdown is another "nature of the beast" kind of thing. The new motor mounts are OEM, not aftermarket, so they can handle it. If letting it idle for a few before shutting down eliminates the shut down shake, doing this also benefits the turbo anyways, as I pointed out, so what's not to like?

Tram, for some reason didn't get notified there was posts...

Anyway, I was wondering how long. I figured with the engine chugging though the parking lots that it wasn't as much needed? Interesting it is for the turbo.

Is there anything that can be done to free the hatch lock and catch?

tram · #23 12-16-2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

So far, that is what it appears. Doesn't seem as if it ever lived on the coast, so reall good chance. Though the sunroof leak does concern me...

Thank you for the through explanation!

Tram, for some reason didn't get notified there was posts...

Anyway, I was wondering how long. I figured with the engine chugging though the parking lots that it wasn't as much needed? Interesting it is for the turbo.

Is there anything that can be done to free the hatch lock and catch?

What exactly is wrong with it?

azitizz · #24 12-16-2012, 10:08 PM

Nice one. Ive got the same year, but the euro lights and the grille doesnt have the star in it. Mine certainly looks like its been through a lot more miles and use. Makes me a little envious to see such a nicely kept wagon.

I have to say, I have done LOTS of work on this car and probably 85-90% of it was dependent on this forum. I have done very little mechanics before I had this car but now I really enjoy it. If I only had more time...

How much is wagon like that going for these days if you dont mind me asking?

Take care
Michael

Adriel · #25 12-17-2012, 12:02 PM

I got a video on my cell, but the laptop I have use of has a password for installing anything on the hard drive unlike my Uncle's desktop, so can't upload the video.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

What exactly is wrong with it?

The key is very hard to turn, especially to unlock, the catch seems to be catching too well, and there is a click from the passenger side top.

Quote:

Originally Posted by azitizz

Nice one. Ive got the same year, but the euro lights and the grille doesnt have the star in it. Mine certainly looks like its been through a lot more miles and use. Makes me a little envious to see such a nicely kept wagon.

I have to say, I have done LOTS of work on this car and probably 85-90% of it was dependent on this forum. I have done very little mechanics before I had this car but now I really enjoy it. If I only had more time...

How much is wagon like that going for these days if you dont mind me asking?

Take care
Michael

Michael, thank you! It is nicely kept, which is what you get if someone cared enough to at least keep the owner's manual, unlike the Volvo I am trying to unload. I thought there be more history, but only know the last ten years.

The German grill is growing on me, as before bugged me there was three stars on the front. But, told my O.C.D. the top star is for a sight, the badge is barely visible especially at speed, so you need a big star so there is no doubt it is a Mercedes!

I have to say the forum was helpful in resolving the window issues and the turn signals, so defiantly a major help. Thank you all!

eBay they are around $10,000 to $15,000.

tram · #26 12-17-2012, 05:51 PM

Adriel: The lock is indeed hard to move if you're going against the power lock mechanisms.

Try just lubing up the catch with WD 40.

As to the clicking at the passenger side, lube the hinges AND the rods going into the shocks and see if that helps..

Adriel · #27 12-18-2012, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

Adriel: The lock is indeed hard to move if you're going against the power lock mechanisms.

Try just lubing up the catch with WD 40.

As to the clicking at the passenger side, lube the hinges AND the rods going into the shocks and see if that helps..

Interesting, but is it supposed to be this hard?
2012 12 17 08 22 48 3351 - YouTube

Warn you, this was taken yesterday morning soon as I got out of bed hoping to load it while there was a computer available. I was still having the affects of the sleeping pill since I was still figuring out the dosage (a little goes a long way in regards to medicines and now taking a quarter dosage). Thus, the cell is shaky and not thinking clearly. But, was trying to show the issues I like to be better. I mean, she does have 280,000 miles!

Tram, I am against WD-40 except as a precursor to Kroil, which is WAY better, especially considering it is an oil not a solvent. I was thinking of using some in the lock. Would that be acceptable?

tram · #28 12-18-2012, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Interesting, but is it supposed to be this hard?
2012 12 17 08 22 48 3351 - YouTube

Warn you, this was taken yesterday morning soon as I got out of bed hoping to load it while there was a computer available. I was still having the affects of the sleeping pill since I was still figuring out the dosage (a little goes a long way in regards to medicines and now taking a quarter dosage). Thus, the cell is shaky and not thinking clearly. But, was trying to show the issues I like to be better. I mean, she does have 280,000 miles!

Tram, I am against WD-40 except as a precursor to Kroil, which is WAY better, especially considering it is an oil not a solvent. I was thinking of using some in the lock. Would that be acceptable?

Adriel- The problem with oil in locks and latches is that it can gather dirt and debris, and cause gumming.

Adriel · #29 12-18-2012, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tram

Adriel- The problem with oil in locks and latches is that it can gather dirt and debris, and cause gumming.

So then a solvent to clean well, then graphite?

Adriel · #30 12-18-2012, 05:02 PM

I was going to go to Oma's, but that didn't work out. So to get out my anxiety, walked to Ace with the dog and got supplies. Most of the employees were non-English speakers who didn't understand me, so didn't find any tubing; partly my fault for not knowing Mexican. I treated the rust and then tried slip the hose all the way on, but was not happening. So pulled the hose, coated the metal with high temperature R.T.V. letting it set up, then resorted to the high temperature R.T.V. to seal the joint. By no means is it pretty or I am proud, but shall see if it holds. When I get the computer that allows me to pull the pictures, will do a write up on how to get to the front drains. It is a major pain, especially the mirror!

Next, decided to put on the wreath, since I finally have an auto that it will work.

Next, addressed the throttle slop.

Now the throttle feels so much better and can't wait to drive it! All I did was use a couple M8 washers to shim out the axial play.