EXTREME positive rear camber - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ashedd · #16 12-24-2012, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woody Worker

if the tierod was very bent,

You mean THIS tierod?

ashedd · #17 12-24-2012, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woody Worker

very well may have tweaked the Idler Arm Mount if the tierod was very bent, also.

Oh ya I forgot... there was cracked paint where it mounts

ashedd · #18 12-24-2012, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

I think I'd be looking for another vehicle at this point. Either another 124 or just get a beater to drive for a few weeks/months while the current one gets fixed... if it's even economically fixable.

I think it would be wise to stay w124.. They are my fav and I have spare parts all over the basement and garage for them. Sold off most the w123 stuff. My TE is not going on a frame machine, too expensive.

And I just sold my '87 300D 5 spd about 6 weeks ago

Really wish it was still sitting back there.

So is the question of the day..do I just stop fooling with it? I'm getting real sick of laying on the cold ground.. my hips are killing me.
I can have a running/driving 300E locally for 800-1200 bucks

mach4 · #19 12-24-2012, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

So is the question of the day..do I just stop fooling with it? I'm getting real sick of laying on the cold ground.. my hips are killing me.
I can have a running/driving 300E locally for 800-1200 bucks

I'd certainly be inclined to go that direction. It would get you through the cold weather and you can reevaluate your options when things warm up a bit. Since you're already familiar with the 124s and have lots of spare parts that seems like a good direction to go. You might even be able to part out the damaged one as part of the solution.

ashedd · #20 12-24-2012, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

You might even be able to part out the damaged one as part of the solution.

Or set it on fire

Woody Worker · #21 12-24-2012, 06:50 PM

You're fooling with it now and you don't know where you're starting from and you don't know exactly where you're trying to end up, and you're spending resources in the process. Probably a good idea to step back and recalibrate, get some crap wheels to get yourself mobile and back to work. As far as getting any frame straightening done, one possibility to check out is the local tech school that has automotive classes, sometimes you can get work done there on the cheap, sometimes you can as a adult enroll and then work on your own project. Or find one of the junior gear heads and have them sponsor the project as their own. Your problem is pretty standard fare and really not too extensive, so it might make a good 2-3 day learning tool for a class. Most of the schools have frame machines as they are integral to repair nowadays.

A case of soda and a half dozen pizzas can get a lot accomplished maybe.

Stretch · #22 12-25-2012, 03:44 AM

I wouldn't even bother trying to repair the bent frame - replace with a good one / new one.

ashedd · #23 12-26-2012, 12:35 PM

Rear sub frame is bent. If the diff is actually centered on the w124(I think it is), then the measurements I took off of it to the control arm brackets, on each side, indicate 3-4 inches of inward movement of the right bracket

I put it all back together and "drove" it down my alley behind the house. I have never in my life driven such an eff'd up car! It was clearly tracking sideways(dog leg) and when I did the turn around at the end it felt like the front wheel way going to come off. I seriously didn't think I was going to make it back to my garage.

I'm gonna call it toast!

Stretch · #24 12-26-2012, 12:44 PM

Are you gonna make a video of the crabbing first though?

ashedd · #25 12-26-2012, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Are you gonna make a video of the crabbing first though?

No not me.. I don't want to drive it again. It would suck to have something break in the alley or side streets.

Stretch · #26 12-26-2012, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

No not me.. I don't want to drive it again. It would suck to have something break in the alley or side streets.

Oh well I'll just look for some re-runs of wacky races on youtube then!

Ozarkdude · #27 12-26-2012, 02:06 PM

Looks like you figured out some of how to measure. But I can offer some other ideas. As you know the car has front and rear sub frames. You can bend those without damaging the the physical chassis structure. You can determine squareness of either with a string. Find a location at the front, and run your string to a point at the rear, on the opposite side. Then check the opposite points (an X) and compare measurements, then take measurements at other points. Much of it you can determine visually, as you found looking for cracked paint, undercoating...

In my younger crazier days I used to chain cars to trees and yank on them with other vehicles, chain binders, hand winches, often I would pull a heavy load on an area and start pounding around that area with hammers, mallets, etc, trying to get that point to move in the proper direction... As an old aircraft mechanic taught me, metal has memory. It wants to go back where it was. If you can tie the car securely to something, and make some light tugs on the LCA hinge bolt, or other parts of the sub frame, you "might" be able to yank it out far enough to make the car drivable. Honestly, thats all a frame rack does, they just offer greater accuracy and control. Sometimes too, you have to apply heat to get the heavier metal to pull out.

ashedd · #28 12-26-2012, 03:26 PM

I really need a bigger garage and a lift to do it right. There is only so much I can do on my parking pad with jack stands. I have used a come-a-long and a tree to pull a radiator/core support out before. I'm not that in love with the car to do all that lol

I would like to have another 400E and be done with it

Maybe a S320, I really have the w140 bug. But I wouldn't turn away a nice SD either, perhaps SDL.