Thats pretty neat, I wonder if they are cast buy the seller or something...

I wish I had. Looks like I will buy a torch next time! I am glad that the plates that the part bolts to are easily removed from the B pillar. I grabbed a few from the junk yard. Plan is to just drill the heads off and remove the plates and slip in the new plates.

I was at PNP today (50% off) and after reading what Junkman said that most MB of this era use the same striker plastic tongues.

So with this new found knowledge, I tried to remove one from a 126. I can move the front piece out about an inch. but the square piece underneith I can`t see how to push it in enough to get it out. maybe the 126`s are not replaceable and the 123`s are?
Looking at the picture Silber Adler posted ( a 123) looks almost like a 126 striker as far as the tongue.

So what is the secret?

.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Did you remove the striker from the pillar?

Yes.

At first I grabbed the front edge with a pair of pliers, and it came out about an inch and stopped. tried to push from under the piece with a screw driver, and finally found this to be futle.

Removed it and with it in my hand I worked with if for a while. there is a pin sort of piece above the square piece that sticks into a hole to hold it in place. It will slide out, but the square piece keeps it from coming out of the striker body. tried to push the square piece down while pulling on the end, but no go.

There has to be a way to replace them, but maybe not. always easier to read how to do a project that actually getting in and doing it. and as anything, there is always a trick to it.

Easier to just remove the strikers from the JY cars and call it good.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I wonder if the plastic kickers are worn on mine. I can see where it would affect the timing of the latch. I might try some shim over it to build it up to see if it fixes it at least temporarily.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

I replaced the plastic piece (all 4 doors) on my '83 300D with no difficulty. The rubber insert just pulled out of the metal surround on the open (rear) side. Any chance you had a shim stuck to what would otherwise be the open side?

I have read in the service manual to apply NLGI-00 grease to the pin and also the engaging tongue but only for cars with this type of door latch.

for my W124 I pumped about 1 tbsp of this grease into the door latch and the door started to close more easier than before. But the W124 does not have the solid thud sound of the earlier MB - they have a mechanical lock sound when the doors close.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I have solved my problem thanks. 'Too Many MBZ' suggested that I loosen the striker plate. I did that and it started closing better Once I torqued it down it got harder. I decided to shim the striker plate with some pop can material: it brought it back in alignment.

For a time I had both bottom screws out. I thought that there was only one nut plate behind the door pillar but there are two plates one on top and one on the bottom, the plate got loose and started drifting down and back from the holes. I quickly got it pulled back up and got a screw started very gingerly. Maybe I could take the interior panel off to retrieve if I lost it but it didn't get completely away.

I did lube the tapered pin and the fulcrum of the latch with some light oil. The tapered pin was very dry. Seemed obvious. Thanks Charlie.

Getting it back working smoothly might keep it from beating the button to death.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

Unexpectedly I have found my Drivers door works much better since I have fixed the window.
Front window repair
The entire window mechanism was loose and rattly. I think it caused a resonance that let the door bounce subtly.

With the window drive train securely located, it shuts with a nice thunk. Quite unlike my Ford.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

sorry to derail this - but a similar issue on the W124 which uses the triangle shaped latches.

The door latch is not perfectly aimed to sit perfect in the triangle, it actually is a bit askew in the door - to align it requires a special tool that is shaped into the groove of the door latch.

If you dont get that correct the door will bounce back even if the door surface sit flush with the rear doors when closed.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Install screw jig for each screw removed to prevent the nut plate from falling down behind the door pillar/wheel well. Screw jig: McMaster Carr # 92605A154