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  #16  
Old 03-13-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr2501 View Post
Next problem:
Vacuum system of IP. Which pipe has to be connected to lock key?
And what to do with other pipes?
1 is the shut off valve (I'm pretty sure). So it needs to go to the key switch. I have no idea what the rest of the vacuum connections are for. Is the engine out of a car with an automatic transmission? In my TN vans with either a 616 or 617 engine there was only the single vacuum hookup for the shut off valve.

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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #17  
Old 03-14-2013, 05:22 AM
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How are you getting on? Did the PDF help or confuse?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2013, 05:43 AM
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The document Strech has sent illustrates that pipe 3,4 and 5 are in use for automatic transmission ( attachment 1), .... so what to do with pipes... can i remove all the box and how to do that?

And for the pipe 2? What to do? (next is from Strech document attachment 2)
Atmospheric pressure-dependent full-load stop (ADA)
The atmospheric pressure-dependent full-load
stop serves to correct the low air density at
higher altitudes.

I have intention just to drive one free (no connection to any thing) pipe parallel with pipe for stop unit into drive cabin to avoid some dirt (except dust in air) can come into ada unit. Do You agree?

For the pipe 1: I will take source vacuum from vacuum pump to key switch and back to stop unit. As i understand vacuum pules rode to stop position. Is it the right logic? (attachment 3)
Attached Thumbnails
Installation of om602.961 into TN van-ipautotran.jpg   Installation of om602.961 into TN van-ada.jpg   Installation of om602.961 into TN van-shut-off.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 03-14-2013, 05:46 AM
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Thank you Stretch.

And thank you Karry to, for the general understanding which helped me very much for seeing the problem in general.
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr2501 View Post
The document Strech has sent illustrates that pipe 3,4 and 5 are in use for automatic transmission ( attachment 1), .... so what to do with pipes... can i remove all the box and how to do that?

And for the pipe 2? What to do? (next is from Strech document attachment 2)
Atmospheric pressure-dependent full-load stop (ADA)
The atmospheric pressure-dependent full-load
stop serves to correct the low air density at
higher altitudes.

I have intention just to drive one free (no connection to any thing) pipe parallel with pipe for stop unit into drive cabin to avoid some dirt (except dust in air) can come into ada unit. Do You agree?

For the pipe 1: I will take source vacuum from vacuum pump to key switch and back to stop unit. As i understand vacuum pules rode to stop position. Is it the right logic? (attachment 3)
My guess - and it is just a guess - is that you will be OK just leaving 3, 4 and 5 connected to nothing.



@everyone - can anyone see a problem with that?

If I were you I'd leave the ADA alone. Connect it as you suggest with a pipe going into the cabin - but on the end of the tube leave yourself a note saying "not connected to anything" - you'll be surprised how easy it is to forget about these things!

Connection 1 most certainly needs to go to the vacuum switch on the ignition key.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 03-14-2013 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Making a fool of myself I think I've got it right now!
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  #21  
Old 03-15-2013, 03:26 AM
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Dimension arrow shows modifications and all dimension were enlarged to fit my clutch, and pression plate from van (om601.940) to w124 (om602.961) flyingwheel.
Attached Thumbnails
Installation of om602.961 into TN van-copy-cl1.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2013, 04:07 AM
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Ok Stretch, thank you for vacuum pipes explanation.
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  #23  
Old 03-15-2013, 04:16 AM
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Now to next problem :

My glow plug box have 5 contacts.
It has also T pine (temperature sensor).
Whit engine i have got all wiring but i do not know how temperature sensor looks.


So what tem sensore does? Does it regulate glow plug heating time?
And in case there is no sensor does the hiting time at maximum?

And in what resistance are does tem sensor work: max resistance and min resistance in temperature range?
Attached Thumbnails
Installation of om602.961 into TN van-gp.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:30 PM
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Now when i have put together pression plate cutch and flyingwheel i may see thate spring
of pression plate is not parallel to clutch but they are looking down. When pressure plate is not on flyingwheel they are looking up.
Is it a problem?
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr2501 View Post
Now when i have put together pression plate cutch and flyingwheel i may see thate spring
of pression plate is not parallel to clutch but they are looking down. When pressure plate is not on flyingwheel they are looking up.
Is it a problem?
Sorry I don't understand what you mean - can you take a picture?

(And I can't help with the post you made before - you need to find a W201 guy to help with that kind of specific stuff)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #26  
Old 03-16-2013, 02:25 PM
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On the photo green are position before puting all together and it was around 20 degres in up. After puting things togeter it becomes around 5 degres down. Is it ok?
Attached Thumbnails
Installation of om602.961 into TN van-all.jpg   Installation of om602.961 into TN van-all2.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 03-17-2013, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr2501 View Post
On the photo green are position before puting all together and it was around 20 degres in up. After puting things togeter it becomes around 5 degres down. Is it ok?
Oh right now I get it.

Again I'm not 100% sure on this one as I've never worked on a W201 before but I reckon it should be OK so long as the clutch releases as intended.

@everyone - does anyone know for sure if the diaphragm springs curve slightly inwards or not?

I instinctively expect them to point outwards slightly =>

HowStuffWorks "Fly Wheels, Clutch Plates and Friction"
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #28  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:24 AM
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I can't explain the change in angle of the clutch springs. Something doesn't seem right. I too would expect a slightly upwards (outwards) angle.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #29  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:37 AM
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Upon further thought I think there is an explanation for the spring arms pointing inward. With a new clutch disc the arms will be forced to their maximum position inward. As the clutch wears the arms will slowly move outwards. So as you tightened the clutch assembly to the flywheel the spring arms had to move. Were all the parts involved a matched set? The only issue that would concern me with the arms moved slightly inward is whether or not the arms still have enough motion remaining to release the clutch disc. If the clutch disc were too fat, there would not be enough movement in the springs to release it.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #30  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post


3,4 and 5 is for the automatic. its called vcv. You can remove it from the pump.
1 is for the shutoff.
2 is for the turbo-pressure (ALDA)

See attached vacuum document
Basically the vacuum-port om the intake header on your picture below that sensor has to be connected to number 2.
But then its lacking the overload protection.

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