I recommend you remove the bolt that's floating about inside the engine.

Have you tried priming the fuel system? Checking your throttle linkages, looking for leaks etc etc etc?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Update: Got some of those super strong magnets at Ace, 3 for $10! and they're tiny, but really strong. Slapped them onto the oil pan. Then, just for the heck of it, tried to start it up again. It sputtered some, then turned over, then stayed turned over, then worked out a few kinks (probably from me turning the crank bolt so much in every direction), then smoothed out beautifully. Thanks again for the post.

Hey guys, sorry for resurrecting an old thread. Can anyone tell me the part number for the crankshaft bolt and the three spring washers? I've tirelessly searched for this information in the forums and google to no avail.

P.S. Been lurking the forums for a while now and decided to register to make it official. I can't express my thanks enough for the wealth of information and support everyone provides for each other and these great cars!! Keep on keepin' on!

Disc spring should be 1279930026
Bolt should be 000961018019

Use this information at your peril!

Check via www.everythingbenz.com for your vehicle

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Righteous! Thank you Stretch you're the man.

I use a similar site for the E30, but couldn't find one for the Benz...

Hello All
I know this post is a bit old however, there are a few pointers I would like to share for anyone who is attempting to this job.



1. There are two types of seals. One with shoulders at the top and one that is round all the way around the outer edge. If your engine does not have a machined bevel on the upper oil pan lip which is located from 3 0clock to 9 o'clock from the the crank shaft, you should use the seal with the shoulders only, per the FSM.

2. Grind the dowels outside of the shaft first and Insert the dowels prior to placing the balancer. You can heat the balancer to 250 degrees to make it easier but it's not mandatory. DO NOT place the balancer before the dowels. The dowels are for positoning the balancer not the other way around.

3. Bring the engine to top dead center at zero degrees before starting the job. That way you know where the balance position should be without marking it. Use the markings on the cam tower. You can place a mark on the shaft at 12 o clock

4. If you want to do this right, you need to lock the engine via the flywheel teeth after removing the starter. The tool is $1200 however for $2 you can buy an L shaped bracket from the hardware store. These are the thick ones that are used in corners to make boxes. They are about 1" wide. Grind off the right corner of one side. This side will go towards the engine block.
When removing the bolt have an assistant place it and hold it between the bottom of the starter housing and the flywheel tooth closest to the bottom, slowly move the socket wrench counter clockwise until the tooth is firmly resting on the bracket.
When installing the seal place the L at the top
Of the housing and press the seal in using the method in this post with the coupler. Then the repeat the locking process When placing the balancer back on and torquing the bolt.