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  #1  
Old 02-17-2013, 02:22 AM
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Timing chain master link question

Hi, I've installed a new JWIS timing chain on my '79 240d. I had trouble fitting the outer plate that fits onto the master link. I even tried to hammer it in on the workbench just to see if it would go on at all, but no luck. I eventually reamed the holes just enough so that it would barely fit on with some effort. The fit is tight but it moved around slightly when "peening" the ends of the link shafts. I understand that the official crimping tool also is able to squeeze on this outer plate onto the link. This makes me think that the plate should be much much tighter than I've got mine on. Should I get a new master link and press the outer plate on the "right way" or should I stop worrying about the chain coming apart with the way things are now?

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Old 02-17-2013, 02:38 AM
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Welcome to the forum mantis176

I reckon you should have used the special tool - adjusting parts to make them fit isn't a great move; especially as you've bought the good timing chain.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantis176 View Post
Hi, I've installed a new JWIS timing chain on my '79 240d. I had trouble fitting the outer plate that fits onto the master link. I even tried to hammer it in on the workbench just to see if it would go on at all, but no luck. I eventually reamed the holes just enough so that it would barely fit on with some effort. The fit is tight but it moved around slightly when "peening" the ends of the link shafts. I understand that the official crimping tool also is able to squeeze on this outer plate onto the link. This makes me think that the plate should be much much tighter than I've got mine on. Should I get a new master link and press the outer plate on the "right way" or should I stop worrying about the chain coming apart with the way things are now?
As long as the pins are peened sufficiently and the side plates are not bound stiffly you're probably alright. There are different master links available one fits as you've described and another one that fits together more loosely. There is some discussion in some other threads that detail the differences, it probably could be found eventually by searching the thread archives.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantis176 View Post
I eventually reamed the holes just enough so that it would barely fit on with some effort. The fit is tight but it moved around slightly when "peening" the ends of the link shafts.
If the "fit is tight", it cannot move around, by definition.

If the "fit is loose", it can move around when peening the ends and may continue to move after peening.

If the fit is loose, the side plate takes no load and the two remaining links must do all the work until they wear sufficiently so that your new side plate begins to take some load. This is undesirable.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:09 PM
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The crimping tool can 'push' the plate in place. I have not done a timing chain but have done the oil pump chain inside the sump. It was hard to push in for sure by hand.

Personally I would not worry too much about it as the peening should hold the plate in place. However, if you are really worry then redo the link. The master link is cheap.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:55 PM
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As ah-kay said the Head of the Timing Tool Crimper can be rotated to a position to press the Link on; and, there is a Magnet on that part of the head to help keep the Link in place.

I agree with Brian Carlton concerning the loose link.

Several years from now inspect that Link and tell use if it worked OK or not.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:24 PM
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Well, I'm going to play it safe and re-do it with a new link and with the proper tool. It would kill me to have the chain snap because I tried to short-cut things. Thanks all for your input!

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