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#1
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If you have the original IP on the '85 engine you can time it with what is known as the A-B timing light. This is a lot easier and arguably more reliable than drip tests. You might be able to borrow this equipment from a forum member => search for the tool rental thread.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#2
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Quote:
I see lots of people mention the A-B timing light, but i have been searching and searching and can not find the actual tool anywhere... |
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#3
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Quote:
On the side of the IP, near the flange where the forward section of the IP attaches to to the rear section is a bolt. Remove this bolt. Some oil will discharge from the port. Ignore it. Rotate the engine to 15 degrees AFTER TDC on the POWER STROKE of the #1cylinder. Be sure you're not on the intake stroke. Now get a mirror and look into the port. You're looking for a steel tang that comes close to the opening of the port. If you see the tang in the middle of the port (unlikely), you have the timing spot on. If you do not see the tang, rotate the IP in the slots and try to find the tang. If you can't find the tang, move the timing to 5 degrees AFTER TDC and try it again. You want to see the tang in the middle of the port and get a read on the timing at the crankshaft. You might need to try various positions at the crankshaft until you find the tang. Once you have this figure, then we can tell you what to do about it. |
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