W115 CV Joints - 90wt Gear Oil Fine? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

warmblood58 · #1 03-24-2013, 09:22 PM

Today, I degreased my diff and cleaned my CV boots very carefully and the "cans" . . . came out great! This car (1975 300D) had sat for several years with an engine knock so it has only been on the road for about 8,000 miles now with a new MB reman that I found. I noticed many months ago that the boots had been replaced at one time, definitely not the originals, and after cleaning and inspecting closely, (zero cracks!) I rubbed the boots with pure glycerin to condition after cleaning. The boots have german style clamps with screws so I can loosen easily and was thinking since I can do this, why not add a few cc's of gear oil via syringe once after lossening clamps. My question is, based on the above, how many cc's per joint and I assume any 90wt gear oil is fine? Thanks!

whunter · #2 03-24-2013, 09:38 PM

I suggest you pull the axles, if you do this.

Trying to do it on the car invites a mess.

Roughly five ounces of 75-90 synthetic gear lube per end.

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warmblood58 · #3 03-24-2013, 09:41 PM

Thanks Hunter! I was thinking of loosing can end clamp and slipping a syringe with hose into boot and just pumping in gear oil that way so I do not have to remove axles . . . bad idea? Seems do-able?

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

I suggest you pull the axles, if you do this.

Trying to do it on the car invites a mess.

Roughly five ounces of 75-90 synthetic gear lube per end.

.

whunter · #4 03-24-2013, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warmblood58

Thanks Hunter! I was thinking of loosing can end clamp and slipping a syringe with hose into boot and just pumping in gear oil that way so I do not have to remove axles . . . bad idea? Seems do-able?

Every time I have tried = spillage makes a mess.
It is a great excuse to drain and fill the differential.

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warmblood58 · #5 03-24-2013, 09:50 PM

I am going to add 3 oz's via large medical syringe and hose, fluid should flow down to bottom of boot, might even gently warm 90 weight to assist with flow and will load from top side of boot . . . will report back, hopefully grease free, lol, thanks Hunter!

vstech · #6 03-25-2013, 08:12 AM

if you loosen the clamps, it's unlikely you will be able to get the boots to seal back again.
there is a LOT of dirt and rust potential surrounding the boot lip, and disturbing it is a bad idea.
if you are going to replace the boots, fine, pull it, and clean it, and drain the oil, and replace with fresh oil. (I use synthetic) and fresh boots.
I think if you pull the boots, you'll be AMAZED at what's under the boot lip.

warmblood58 · #7 03-25-2013, 12:41 PM

Thanks vstech . . . yesterday I had degreased everything including the area where lip of boot meets can very thoroughly (did this twice by hand and soft brush vs. powerwash) if I loosen boot clamp (I have german screw hose clamp style which can be tightened) am I still likely to have a reseal issue? Thanks buddy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

if you loosen the clamps, it's unlikely you will be able to get the boots to seal back again.
there is a LOT of dirt and rust potential surrounding the boot lip, and disturbing it is a bad idea.
if you are going to replace the boots, fine, pull it, and clean it, and drain the oil, and replace with fresh oil. (I use synthetic) and fresh boots.
I think if you pull the boots, you'll be AMAZED at what's under the boot lip.

whunter · #8 03-25-2013, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warmblood58

Thanks vstech . . . yesterday I had degreased everything including the area where lip of boot meets can very thoroughly (did this twice by hand and soft brush vs.

power-wash) if I loosen boot clamp (I have German screw hose clamp style which can be tightened) am I still likely to have a reseal issue?

Thanks buddy!

YES.

Trash - sludge collects in the lip.
Once it is compromised I usually need to:
* Remove the axles.
* Clean (wire wheel) the center shaft.
* Remove boot clamps.
* Slide the boot up the center shaft (out of my way).
* Clean (wire wheel) the freshly exposed Boot/center shaft sealing area.
* Clean (wire wheel) the freshly exposed Boot/Joint mating surface.
* Drain and clean interior of joint and boot.
* Refill the joint with 75-90 synthetic gear lube.
* Install and clamp the boot.

Repeat for each axle joint until they have all been serviced.

Note: I have nylon vice jaws for holding the axle shaft while working.

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warmblood58 · #9 03-25-2013, 02:31 PM

Thanks Hunter! I was thinking that I would use a medical syringe with a small diameter hose attached and after loosening clamp, raise lip slightly with a soft tool to then insert syringe hose under lip and then add warmed gear oil slowly from the top of joint . . . these joints appear somewhat fresh based upon boot appearance but car did sit for some time . . how long I am not certain - could be 3-4 years or more. I might still try this but I suppose I have been warned! Thanks for your help!

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

YES.

Trash - sludge collects in the lip.
Once it is compromised I usually need to:
* Remove the axles.
* Clean (wire wheel) the center shaft.
* Remove boot clamps.
* Slide the boot up the center shaft (out of my way).
* Clean (wire wheel) the freshly exposed Boot/center shaft sealing area.
* Clean (wire wheel) the freshly exposed Boot/Joint mating surface.
* Drain and clean interior of joint and boot.
* Refill the joint with 75-90 synthetic gear lube.
* Install and clamp the boot.

Repeat for each axle joint until they have all been serviced.

Note: I have nylon vice jaws for holding the axle shaft while working.

.

warmblood58 · #10 03-25-2013, 02:35 PM

Hunter, If had the allen head style setup, I would have pulled these complete as you suggested but diff fluid is fresh and just not in the mood to pull diff cover, remove clips, etc. as time is tight these days as I am preparing to move - is there a good sticky procedure for pulling the can style axles?

Shortsguy1 · #11 03-25-2013, 02:42 PM

Okay, dumb question. Why do you want to add oil? If the boots are okay, whatever oil used to be in there is still in there. Since your time is limited, my recommendation would be move onto other more pressing issues. Based on the expert advice presented above, you are more likely to create work for yourself if you open up those boots. Just sharing one perspective. Good luck.

whunter · #12 03-25-2013, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warmblood58

Hunter, If had the allen head style setup, I would have pulled these complete as you suggested but diff fluid is fresh and just not in the mood to pull diff cover, remove clips, etc. as time is tight these days as I am preparing to move - is there a good sticky procedure for pulling the can style axles?

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Differential

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Axles

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warmblood58 · #13 03-25-2013, 03:56 PM

You are right here, cv's seem fine in spite of sitting, was thinking freshening up lubrication with a fresh shot per joint might be a good idea . . .

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Okay, dumb question. Why do you want to add oil? If the boots are okay, whatever oil used to be in there is still in there. Since your time is limited, my recommendation would be move onto other more pressing issues. Based on the expert advice presented above, you are more likely to create work for yourself if you open up those boots. Just sharing one perspective. Good luck.

warmblood58 · #14 03-25-2013, 04:01 PM

Thank you Hunter!

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Differential

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Axles

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