Only thing different now, other than the noise, is more fluid leaking on the floor. That is what lead me to consider the seals and o-rings for the pump. Which in turn sent me down the T/C road (noise)....

I had a vac leak in the rear driver's side door lock actuator, but I replaced that with a new one and no vac problems at this time.
Here is a quick timeline:

Adjusted vac due to a quick 2-3 shift; fixed the problem
Starting off there seemed to be a slight hesitation before the transmission engaged
Started noticing fluid on the garage, small amt.
Changed fluid and filter (not TC, I know, idiot) and noticed foam that Stretch posted pics for me.
Seemed to be running okay
Started to lose 1 + 2 occasionally, not constant
Whining noise shows up a couple of days later at about 2000 rpms, not constant
More fluid leaking than originally
Whining becomes constant
Driving very gingerly and seems to shift okay and gets me around locally, 1-2 miles if needed.

As far as my thinking goes here, I'm no expert, just trying to think this through instead of just throwing $$$ and time at it in hopes of a solution. I do have access to another vehicle for 10 days or so coming up in a couple of weeks, which would be ideal for this project. That is why I was asking about length of time.



Any suggestions on where to get the proper manual?

It was both posts actually, the 303 and the Monster DIY.

I'm kind of relieved to hear that a rebuild might be over the top.

__________________
1980 300TD, SOLD
1984 300TD, 275K
1999 C230 K Black & Tan
2013 C250 Black
1974 CJ5 Red
You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper-

I don't really know what is best - all I can do is give you some advice that might help and then hope that I'm not wasting your time. At the end of the day you and only you are responsible for all of this...

...I think you need to do the following instead of going down the rebuild route. There's always time for that if it doesn't work out - and what I'm going to suggest doesn't add to the cost of a rebuild. So although you could loose time; at least you won't loose money! I can't provide a solution that will stop you from loosing both => if anyone else can please say.

I reckon you need to get some hydraulic pressure gauges to measure what is going on. I can provide the test pressure data you'll need. You also need a vacuum gauge if you don't have one.

(After rebuilding a transmission you'll need these gauges anyway 'cos you have to set it up)

You need to find what's leaking - this might dictate transmission removal anyway in which case other things could be considered.

Replacing the B2 piston is a relatively simple task. If you struggle with this then you at least know that rebuilding a whole transmission yourself is something you probably shouldn't be doing. Furthermore this could fix the problems cheaply - it could - it just might - there's a glimmer of hope!

Also I feel that changing the fluid completely with a filter is a small monetary gamble that might pay off.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!