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  #16  
Old 06-14-2013, 12:22 PM
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Also, check out this thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/238275-rear-windshield-seal-w116-123-126-a.html

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  #17  
Old 06-20-2013, 09:42 PM
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Glass is in and the job went super smoothly! I was quite worried after speaking to Roy Hunter who recommended at least 2 helpers but I only had one and neither one of us had prior experience. I used the old Mercedes rubber (glass smashed by a tree) and a used Mercedes glass.

I made sure everything was clean of the old putty and used parachute cord lubed with 50/50 soap and water. Brake clean spray and denim cloth wiped the old putty (after scraping) off surgically clean. I squirted a bead of the 3M glazing bedding compound along the body first before lowering rubber lip of the assembly (glass/rubber/ alum trim) onto the pinch weld, centered it and pushed down to seat it as much as possible. My helper was kneeling on the trunk while applying light pressure. I took out the hat rack so I can see the lower rubber lip as I pulled the cord. My helper didn't have to push much. I can see what's going on with the rubber lip as it rolled over the pinch weld. I think I could have done it all by myself if I didn't have help. I ran out of glazing compound after putting a bead between glass and rubber and not have enough for between rubber to body. Will need to order another tube.

I took some pics and will put them up in the next few days.
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  #18  
Old 06-21-2013, 03:55 PM
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I don't have any pics of the old putty on the pinch welds. Here it is all cleaned up. The Brake Clean did an amazing job getting the tenacious putty down to clean paint after scraping the chunks off with a plastic putty scraper. I used denim patches a squirt of Brake Clean and wipe back and forth and the denim picks up the putty instead of smearing it.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #19  
Old 06-21-2013, 03:57 PM
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The orange stuff on top is the old head liner adhesive. The Brake Clean removes it also but requires a lot more elbow grease than the putty.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #20  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:00 PM
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I had to glue the head liner back on after wiping it clean with Brake Clean. I used 3M yellow weatherstripping adhesive in a small squeeze tube $4.99 from Autozone. They had a big can of spray adhesive for $14 which is too much for my needs. The $4.99 stuff worked fine. Clean surface prep is what counts.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:04 PM
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This is the glazing compound I used. I was worried about the tube blow out warning so had it in the sun to warm it up and also wrapped it in masking tape. It flowed nicely, no problem with blow out. I lost a lot of compound due to it coming out on the bottom of the tube where the plunger is though, part of the reason I don't have enough to finish the job.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 06-21-2013 at 04:55 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:10 PM
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This is the glass/rubber/trim assembly ready for the rope. This is the old rubber from the car and the old putty was cleaned in a 20 gal tote of water and scraped with the end of a tooth brush and also a brass wire brush. It was a lot of work since the putty was sticky and didn't want to come off the rubber. I did this before I found out that Brake Clean is an excellent solvent for the Mercedes gray putty.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 06-21-2013 at 04:57 PM.
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  #23  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:40 PM
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Sorry, no pics of the roping in process. We were too focused installing the glass, which took about 10 minutes. I was inside manning the rope and my helper was outside. I got out many times to check that the glass is centered and the bottom lip on the outside was over the body and uses a plastic putty knife to lift the lip over the body if it wasn't. My helper at times would let go of pushing the glass and it didn't shift which is why I think I could have done it alone.

Here's a pic of the installed glass. I need to get another tube of sealant. Maybe I'll try the Mercedes stuff this time. Anyone have part of a tube they want to sell? I will monitor for leaks (or lack of) which will determine if this job is a total success or not.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 06-21-2013 at 04:58 PM.
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  #24  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:00 PM
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #25  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:11 PM
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The FSM procedure is confusing in many respects and I didn't follow some of it. One is the rope or ropes. The FSM recommends 2 loops which mean 2 overlaps. I see no reason for it and used one loop with one crossover at the bottom/ middle.

I also studied the old rubber and the body for signs of the putty and decide when to apply the sealant. There are 2 lips on the rubber where it meets the body (outer and inner) and if you follow the FSM to apply the sealant after the glass is roped in, you would not be able to get the sealnt beyond the second lip. So a bead of sealant must be applied to the body first before roping the glass in.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #26  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:26 PM
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You got it in! It's weird to see pictures of stuff I used to own on other people's cars...

I may refer to this when I replace the rear windshield seal in my 'SD...
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  #27  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
You got it in! It's weird to see pictures of stuff I used to own on other people's cars...

I may refer to this when I replace the rear windshield seal in my 'SD...
A win win situation! What's the matter with your seal? Is it leaking?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #28  
Old 07-17-2013, 03:49 PM
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funola: Tks for this thread, and your details. This is emboldening me to try this job; I need to do it shortly. I've got both delamination and a leakage problem. Oh, and the defroster no longer works, probably because of the delamination!

I do have a replacement window, sourced years ago in a scrapyard.

One question for you? Is there a test - perhaps a resistance test? - to determine if the defroster in the replacement is up to par? I imagine it's not quite as simple as a continuity test...

Thanks again!
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  #29  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:09 PM
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Any reason not to use the Dap window glaze from the hardware store?
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  #30  
Old 07-17-2013, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
A win win situation! What's the matter with your seal? Is it leaking?
I'm not sure. I need to post a thread about that.

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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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