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  #31  
Old 07-12-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
...........


I have also had reconfirmed my conviction that the best shops are those that have no employees....one guy and only one guy does all the work.
Amen to that! One guy and that guy is yourself!

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  #32  
Old 07-12-2013, 11:23 AM
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I have always found the level to be midway on a warm engine on the OM606 (oil is scalding hot too), I do wipe the stick and put it back and leave it alone for about 3 or 4 minutes before checking - read that somewhere in some manual.

in an oil change by myself, I ramp/jack the car up, pop the hood and loosen the filter center tube - this allows oil to drain into the sump. I then place the pan, get the tools, move the creeper in place and undo the sump plug.

Always get about 7 quarts
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Took it to Fred's ******** in Warwick. I think, at the end of the day, Fred did a fine job. However, I was frustrated by inattention to detail at a number of points. Missing bolts, a coolant leak, firewall not connected to upper radiator support, etc.... So I sent it back and he's personally attending to everything....I pick it up next Wednesday.

In my experience, Fred is a very competent and knowledgeable tech and really knows his way around older diesels. HOWEVER, the guys he has working for him are sometimes a little sloppy. Fred is honest and will always make things right....but you may have to take the car back to him to get everything perfect.

My first choice would have been RDM in Tiverton. But Ray indicated he's not overly enthusiastic about doing head gaskets....and he doesn't take credit cards. So I took it to Fred....in retrospect, I wish I had taken it to RDM, even though I think I'll make out OK. I remain convinced the RDM is the best place for Mercedes in the state of RI.

I have also had reconfirmed my conviction that the best shops are those that have no employees....one guy and only one guy does all the work.

this is exactly what ive heard elsewhere as well about auto haus. The owner of that silver 240 you saw last year told me word for word what you just said, and additionally said he got into some kind of big fight with fred or one of his guys I guess and was never returning.
I gather the fight was about 3 or 4 visits related to the starting and charging system, which was ultimately fixed by the PO after paying them to replace the alternator, starter, starter again, and a 4th breakdown due to no charge. I guess the problem was a loose connector on the alt that the PO fixed with a pair of needle nose.

Im always curios to hear who is good with the older cars, more and more its going to be the owner him/herself thats the true expert unfortunately.

Haven't been to RDM, might farm out a job and see how they do it. Thanks for the tip!
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
this is exactly what ive heard elsewhere as well about auto haus. The owner of that silver 240 you saw last year told me word for word what you just said, and additionally said he got into some kind of big fight with fred or one of his guys I guess and was never returning.
I gather the fight was about 3 or 4 visits related to the starting and charging system, which was ultimately fixed by the PO after paying them to replace the alternator, starter, starter again, and a 4th breakdown due to no charge. I guess the problem was a loose connector on the alt that the PO fixed with a pair of needle nose.

Im always curios to hear who is good with the older cars, more and more its going to be the owner him/herself thats the true expert unfortunately.

Haven't been to RDM, might farm out a job and see how they do it. Thanks for the tip!
I'll add that my regular mechanic is just across the "border" in Rehoboth, MA: Tom at Metric Motors. Very competent, experienced, and honest....and he lets me bring my own parts. His labor rate is a little higher, but I'm glad to pay it. Another one-man shop. I originally took the car to him, but he said he hadn't done a head gasket in ten years or so.
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  #35  
Old 07-12-2013, 02:19 PM
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Don't assume that all dipsticks measure 1 quart between max and min markings.

My W123 300D Turbo dipstick is set to have 1 quart in between max and min, but my W201 190E 2.6 has a difference of 2 quarts between max and min.
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  #36  
Old 07-12-2013, 02:46 PM
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With seven quarts in the oil pan this thread is entirely to long. Just don't over fill it. Should not be over half way mark.
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  #37  
Old 07-12-2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
With seven quarts in the oil pan this thread is entirely to long. Just don't over fill it. Should not be over half way mark.
Never underestimate the potential length of a thread involving oil!
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  #38  
Old 07-12-2013, 03:15 PM
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My 617 with 90,000 since the 2005 overhaul burns zero oil in a 6,000 mile service interval, thanks in part to Total Seal Gapless Rings. Sometimes I don't check it for weeks, though I know I should.

The distance between the notches on my 617.950 dipstick is exactly 1 quart, FWIW anyways...
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  #39  
Old 07-12-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
My 617 with 90,000 since the 2005 overhaul burns zero oil in a 6,000 mile service interval, thanks in part to Total Seal Gapless Rings. Sometimes I don't check it for weeks, though I know I should.

The distance between the notches on my 617.950 dipstick is exactly 1 quart, FWIW anyways...
That's hard to believe........especially the "zero" part.
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  #40  
Old 07-12-2013, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
That's hard to believe........especially the "zero" part.
I run 6,000 to 8,000 between changes on Shell Rotella 15/40 or Valvoline Fleet 15/40 and I never have to add any oil. The level really doesn't seem to change. I am sure if you went all 'Mythbusters' and used some device to actually measure the oil level you would see some consumption, but top the ey, it's always full....

Don't underestimate the power of gapless rings....

http://www.totalseal.com/Custom.aspx
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

Last edited by Doktor Bert; 07-12-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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  #41  
Old 07-12-2013, 06:53 PM
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And, after a good long run, waiting 10 minutes and measuring, I'm at 0.5 on the dipstick.

So (again, this on the 91 300D) cold 0.6, barely warmed up after 10 minutes 0.4, hot after 10 minutes 0.5.

I conclude:

1. A cold reading is a perfectly good approximation (though the hot method is the MB specified method).

2. The mechanic who filled the oil screwed up (then again, I already knew that).
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  #42  
Old 07-13-2013, 07:26 AM
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Shertex, when you say .6 on the stick, what do you mean? Is it .6" below full, .6" above add, .6" from tip of the stick? I'm from the South East so some things are done, or thought of differently down here.

When I change the oil in my 91 300D with 314,000 miles on it, I put in 7 quarts and call it done. It will measure about 1/2 qt low.It will go down to the add mark after about 5000 miles, so I just go ahead and change it. I check it cold.

Paul
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  #43  
Old 07-13-2013, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by pmckechnie View Post
Shertex, when you say .6 on the stick, what do you mean? Is it .6" below full, .6" above add, .6" from tip of the stick? I'm from the South East so some things are done, or thought of differently down here.

When I change the oil in my 91 300D with 314,000 miles on it, I put in 7 quarts and call it done. It will measure about 1/2 qt low.It will go down to the add mark after about 5000 miles, so I just go ahead and change it. I check it cold.

Paul
Sorry for the lack of clarity...by 0.6 I mean the oil is 60% of the way up between the markings....so 0.5 would be halfway between the markings.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 142k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #44  
Old 07-13-2013, 11:44 AM
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  #45  
Old 07-13-2013, 02:28 PM
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There is way too much thought invested in this subject here-
Basically, you want enough oil that the pump won't suck air regardless of normal angle or g-loading on the car, and a low enough level that the crank doesn't hit it and froth it up. Typically you have two quarts of space either way from the lines, so really if you're at the top or bottom line it doesn't matter a whole lot.
Detroit Diesel says to wait ten minutes after shutdown to get the correct oil level, but these aren't Detroits. Just follow the manual procedure and it'll be good.

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