Noob intro thread

[Ben Froelich]

Hello everyone! Thanks for all the great info on this forum. I've been reading up, but still feel out of my element when it comes to diesels. My last car was a Jeep Grand Wagoneer, I rebuilt the engine/carburetor, r/r'd the gas tank and rear end, etc. So I know a little about gassers, but I'm pretty clueless about these diesels.

A couple months ago, I picked up an '80 300D for $2200+battery. Supposedly, it had about 130k on it and maintenance records for the first 90k or so. The interior is in great shape so I'm inclined to believe the odometer. It's been a California car it's whole life. The first owner had it for most of its life, then he died and passed it on to his daughter, who sold it very quickly. Last oil change stickers indicate that the oil was last changed over 5 years ago, but driven very little in that time (~1k miles). For the first 90k, it was taken to Plati German Auto- a very reputable mechanic in Los Angeles. Not sure about the last 40k.

Since I bought it, I changed the oil and filter, air filter, fuel filters, and driven it almost 1k miles. I also ran a couple cans of diesel purge through it (before changing the fuel filters), and washed the sludge off the engine. Only problem so far was a clogged prefilter. It was full of algae I think.

Performance wise, the car is a slug, but gets up to 75 on the freeway after a while (been driving at 56 most of the time, though). I think it痴 missing the transmission throttle linkage, so it shifts wayy too soon and also has a 2-3 flare up. It also idles like one cylinder isn稚 doing anything and the car shakes, especially when warm. I知 hoping it痴 not too serious, but the car does have some blow by. My current plan is to have it looked over by a shop or anyone in the San Fernando Valley area and then dig in. Thanks for reading!

By the way, I will provide copious amounts of beer to anybody in the SFV area who knows these cars and is willing to teach me how to do stuff like a valve adjustment

My old car, in all its 11mpg glory


Sorry about the cell phone quality pics








Service records:










So comfortable!

[charmalu]

Welcome to the Forum. thee are a bunch of knowledgeable people here that can guide you along as you work through the various systems.

At least you know the car was taken care of in it`s early life.
The speedometer`s on these cars are known to worn, not work, work and just plain quit. Hopefully this is the true mileage, if so.....good score.

There are some good DIY articles in this section.

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

And Diesel Giant has some good write ups and pictures.

Mercedes Diesel Maintenance tips


Weekends get a little slow around here then picks back up on Monday, so if you don`t get too many replys, hang in there.

Charlie

[t walgamuth]

Looks like a nice car! Welcome. It sounds like your tank is infested with bacteria. Get some biocide from a truck stop or marina or farm store and treat the tank. Usuallly after the biocide the junk will come through the filter and you will be good. A second treatment and new filters would not hurt. Lack of performance and a miss are two signs of lack of fuel supply most commonly caused by plugged filters from bacteria. Bacteria is attracted by water in the fuel. In my experience this is usually from a contaminated tank at the gas station.

[Benzasaurus]

Welcome! Sweet ride! This place is a treasure trove of information so you'll love it here. I've never had a question that couldn't be answered with the search function or by googling the phrase "site:peachparts.com" + the question). And everyone is super helpful.

Btw, awesome shades! Where'd you get that?

[Diesel911]

Startron or Biobor to kill the stuff in the Tank. If the Auto Parts has none try a Store that deals with Boats or Big Rig Truck Accessories.
If the Filters are restricted it will make you slow.

Also there is a Fuel Tank Screen that can also get plugged up.

A sloppy adjusted Throttle Linkage can make you slow.
With the Engine Cold reach over and grab and Hold the Throttle Lever on the Fuel Injection Pump. Have someone step on the Accelerator Pedal slowly and watch how much play is in the Linkages before it actually starts to move the Throttle Lever.

Pay close attention to the Oil and Transmission Cooler Hoses for leaks and change them as soon as you see any leaks or seeping.

Inspect the Rubber Boots on the rear Axles as the originals are filled with Oil and if the Boots Crack the Oil leaks out.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

This is the best of the Free Mercedes Forums.
Benzworld is a good 2nd.
The Mercedes Club Of America Forum is also good but it is not free. However, if you are a Member you get discounts when you buy Parts at the Dealer.

[gatorblue92]

Welcome! That's a good looking Benz and Jeep you have.

[jusme]

Welcome to the forum. Gotta love the full size Jeeps.

[cooljjay]

Nice car!

First evil servo! Evil servo!

Second everything on this car is controlled by vacuum...all your linkages are in place but your transmission is also vacuum controlled. You probably need to rebuild the vacuum pump...find the leaks etc....also another cause, is if the engine isn't running up to power the transmission won't either...

You have the egr system on this car too....you will have to remove that and clean the soot out of the intake manifold.

Just remove the tank and clean it, very simple....and you won't have issues regarding gunk or algae afterwards...

Also you probably need a new primer pump, old ones leak and suck air...

Probably need new injectors...

Shaking means you also need new motor mounts and trans mount.

Finally the non turbo engines are big time slugs! Going up a hill here at altitude....I am lucky to keep 55mph.....give me an incline and I can get up to 90!

Also look into redoing the shifter bushings....so your car won't roll away from you with out you in it....

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1417360-diy-console-shifter-bushing-replacement.html

[Ben Froelich]

Thanks everyone for the welcoming and informative responses. It looks like I've got my work cut out for me!

A little more info:

The shades came with the car, from some place in Van Nuys, LA, CA. Looks like its from the 80s!
Van Nuys Firm Cashes In on Israeli Invention : Folding Car Shades Are a Red-Hot Item in Sun Belt - Los Angeles Times

One of the service tags on the inside door says the tranny fluid was changed at 100k or so. A good sign, but looks like it is due soon.

The axle boots are a little cracked but not torn fortunately. I'll work on these ASAP.

I'll probably pull the tank and get it squeaky clean.

Thanks!

[Simpler=Better]

You can get by for a while by smearing grease on the axle joint, then wrapping in saran wrap, then electrical tape (or your favorite brand of flexible tape).

Inspect your flex discs on the driveshaf. If you see any fraying replace them.

I'll cut to the chase:

-EGR "fix" (cheap)
-Adjust valves (it's easy once you try) ($20 tools)
-Send your injectors out to be cleaned & balance (several people do it on the forums, I have had good luck with Greazzer. Since you're in cali there may also be a local shop. Should be well under $100 assuming nothing is broken)
-Measure your timing chain stretch, and correct as necessary ($25 tools, $15 offset key)
-Check your timing with a drip tube (junkyard injector line)
-By this time your injector will be back in the mail, and you can reinstall them with fresh crush washers.($~2 each)
-Now that it's running, buy a mityvac knockoff ($20) and set your transmission up, there is a mile-long writeup on here

Gauges are usually sticky from dried grease, or have broken cables. electrical gauges are usually bad ground connections. Watch out for the mechanical oil pressure gauge it can "surprise" you, and make sure you're gentle on the fittings.



Longer term fixins:

-new intake gasket ($10)
-new valve cover gasket ($7)
-chain tensioner spring ($8)
-chain tensioner gasket ($2)
-Transmission fluid/filter($30?)