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#1
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Removing lower trim above rocker panels
I have a little rust showing on one rear door sill, just above the lower black trim.
How do I remove that trim? Do I have to first remove the end trim that lines up with the door trim?
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#2
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In principle is clicks off - however, I've found it is best to try and pull it along the length of the car so that it pings off the clips.
You'll see that the clips are another bayonet affair like those bits on the windscreen wiper motor cover.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Quote:
I wish i could find a picture of the inside of the seal with the clips in place - would perhaps avoid me from destroying clips and having yet another job to do The rubber seal is split for last foot or so, but I think I could repair that. So at least I am not in for several hundreds of $$ for new seals.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#4
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OK - Decided to have a go at it.
The end trim piece comes off easily, by prying it off from bottom up. And so does the trim. I used a claw hammer Actually it worked well! Just pull it up under trim in vicinity of clip and clip comes off easily with no damage. Lots of crud in there - I think I will take both sides off, clean up and give a coat of paint. OK - They are off! I tested putting them back, and all it takes is hanging the metal channel on top of clip and give bottom a firm tap with a mallet. I found a small rust spot up front driver side, so just as well I took them off. Will probably take off the front trim pieces too (between front wheel well and door.) Any special trick to those ?
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 Last edited by Graham; 07-12-2013 at 08:52 PM. |
#5
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You describe exactly how it is meant to be done - and yes to slide along you need to unclick the first bit a bit if I remember correctly. As for the other trim - same system. On the doors however there is a bolt and a nut - so don't have a go at everything with your claw hammer!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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I did slide the trim off, but had to unclip about 50% first because there was so much crud restricting movement. I seem to recall there being some sort of a spring clip that required the front fender trim pieces to slid out rather than just unclipped. But that might have been on one of the other cars. Checked 123 and you can see the plastic rivets on inside of fender. Just pries off just like you said. Found rust on driver side front. Easily fixed, so pleased I took those pieces off. Just a couple more items for the never ending job
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 Last edited by Graham; 07-13-2013 at 11:07 AM. |
#7
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You will want to remove the trim that covers the bottom of the exterire door also. Bottom of my SD doors had surface rust that was easily treated woth POR. Ignoring would lead to replacing door or metal.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#8
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A long time ago - maybe 12 years or more, I found quite a bit of rust on the inside channels of the rear doors only, where the door weather stripping is attached. At that time, I cleaned out the rust and coated the channels with POR15. The seals were not in great shape, but I had glued them back in place. Now I am on a rust hunt, I see those rear door channels need some work. Fronts look OK. The POR15 helped a lot, but there is now some new rust. Ideally, I would take the doors off just so as to get at those bottom channels. But I have a mental block against taking the doors off . Remove door skins, disconnect vacuum and electrical connections, undo hinge screws that have probably never been off. Maybe I could cut or disconnect wiring/vacuum inside car? I actually have a spare set of doors. The metal is in better condition, but trim is black instead of beige and parts like glass, lifters etc have been scavenged, so it would be making two good doors out of 4 not so good. The spare doors are same colour (white) but would need repainting to get proper match. Not sure I am up for adding that much work to an already never ending job
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#9
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I wouldn't worry too much about the hinge bolts. In the worse case scenario where you need to drill them out the screw hole part is actually on a strip of metal that kind of floats in a slot inside the door pillar. This is totally replaceable - just don't damage the body work - but the bolts and the "holes" are almost easy to replace.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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