83 300SD electrical issue - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #1 07-22-2013, 09:16 AM

You don't need a helper. Shove a wire in the blue wire spade, use a vice grip to ground the other end of the wire. Turn key on.

toomany MBZ · #2 07-22-2013, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

You don't need a helper. Shove a wire in the blue wire spade, use a vice grip to ground the other end of the wire. Turn key on.

Can I use the blue terminal block?

funola · #3 07-22-2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Can I use the blue terminal block?

Huh?

Unplug the connector from the alternator. Shove one end of a stripped wire in the spade of the blue wire of the connector harness. Ground the other end of the wire by using a vice grip. Turn key on and the battery light should light.

toomany MBZ · #4 07-22-2013, 09:50 AM

Sorry, the blue wired terminal at the electrical block under hood.

Second from left.

Stretch · #5 07-22-2013, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

...

Thanks Stretch, but I don't understand that language.

Sorry I didn't explain myself properly - I thought that as it was a difficult part to find (not in EPC) then as luck would have it a forum member who happens to be here on this forum just so happens to have posted information about that part elsewhere - serendipity! But as JamesDean has found it in the pelican parts catalogue...

...hmm well that's that then isn't it...

toomany MBZ · #6 07-22-2013, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Sorry I didn't explain myself properly - I thought that as it was a difficult part to find (not in EPC) then as luck would have it a forum member who happens to be here on this forum just so happens to have posted information about that part elsewhere - serendipity! But as JamesDean has found it in the pelican parts catalogue...

...hmm well that's that then isn't it...

Yes, that part JD linked to is the cluster pullers.

My local dealer has a set in stock at a lower price.

As stated, the battery light does work when I connect a lead from the blue wired terminal and turn the key.

JamesDean · #7 07-22-2013, 09:12 AM

You can buy them from Pelican here:

Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Part Number 140-589-02-33-00

toomany MBZ · #8 07-22-2013, 09:17 AM

^Thanks, both of you.

toomany MBZ · #9 07-22-2013, 10:23 AM

Well, I did it as stated above and the battery light on the dash does come on.

toomany MBZ · #10 07-22-2013, 11:32 AM

A bit of background.

I purchased this reman alt years ago. Installed it four months ago, don't know how long it hasn't been charging, but failed last week.

This is also going on here:Alternator failure diagnoses confirmation on 82 240d.

vstech · #11 07-22-2013, 12:08 PM

that's a classic sign the regulator has failed. pull the two screws on the regulator off the alt, and change it.

as for the cluster pulling... I just grab the edges of the cluster, rest my thumbs on the two knobs stickin out, and pull.

the wires on the terminal block go to the starter.

toomany MBZ · #12 07-22-2013, 02:21 PM

The regulator is almost new.

The other times a regulator has gone bad, the red battery light illuminates when it shouldn't.

I'm going with a new alternator.

Does anyone know if Iskra stuff is any good?

This reman unit lasted four months.

coolram62 · #13 07-22-2013, 06:56 PM

This is on my '83 300SD. I have a similar problem with the warning lights - in particular the low fuel and alternator lights. With the key on all the lights go through self test. Wait for the glow plug light to go out and start - the low fuel and alt light come on really dim. I replaced the voltage regulator a few months back and I've rechecked voltage both static 12.3 VDC and 14.1 VDC once idle levels out. Could this be a broken solder path on the cluster? I've added a ground lead from the back of the cluster. I've also added a secondary ground (2ga) from the power steering bolt to the body.

funola · #14 07-22-2013, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolram62

This is on my '83 300SD. I have a similar problem with the warning lights - in particular the low fuel and alternator lights. With the key on all the lights go through self test. Wait for the glow plug light to go out and start - the low fuel and alt light come on really dim. I replaced the voltage regulator a few months back and I've rechecked voltage both static 12.3 VDC and 14.1 VDC once idle levels out. Could this be a broken solder path on the cluster? I've added a ground lead from the back of the cluster. I've also added a secondary ground (2ga) from the power steering bolt to the body.

A dimly lit alternator light could be a loose connection at the starter big terminal. Disconnect the battery before you try to clean and tighten that terminal.

funola · #15 07-22-2013, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

The regulator is almost new.

The other times a regulator has gone bad, the red battery light illuminates when it shouldn't.

I'm going with a new alternator.

Does anyone know if Iskra stuff is any good?

This reman unit lasted four months.

Before installing a reman alternator, get it bench tested first! I have owned and maintained many old used cars over the years and never had to buy or replace an alternator, just certain parts. Parts I have replaced the most are:

1. alternator brushes (most often),
2. alternator bearings (second most often).

One item that often gets overlooked in alternator not charging is the tightness of the belt. It has to be tight enough so that you can't turn the pulley by hand. If you can slip the pulley/ belt, it won't charge.