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  #16  
Old 08-22-2013, 12:45 PM
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Did the compressor come with a new clutch? I had a misaligned bearing wear a short circuit in the clutch coils which blew the fuse when the compressor engaged.

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87 300D

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  #17  
Old 08-22-2013, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Do blower motors increase amps draw as they age? Someone with a new blower motor please measure its amps draw.
They can. The blower can get more difficult to turn as the bearings wear requiring more current to start and possibly to stay running. I'm no sparky but I think if you hold the blower cage then set the blower to MAX the fuse will get hot and eventually blow. That's it's job unless the blower windings dissipate the heat or themselves blow.

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  #18  
Old 08-22-2013, 12:53 PM
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Rgrassi, I keep forgetting you do not have a W123 so everything I said may not apply to your car.

The fuse box in the W123 looks like it is made from Bakelite, which has a melting point much higher than most plastics.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2013, 12:55 PM
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Looks like a 123 in his sig line.

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87 300D
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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Here's some discussion of a 123 melting ACC - or just CC since the OP is asking about a 240D - fuse holders - melting fuse box but not fuse

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87 300D
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  #21  
Old 08-22-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
They can. The blower can get more difficult to turn as the bearings wear requiring more current to start and possibly to stay running. I'm no sparky but I think if you hold the blower cage then set the blower to MAX the fuse will get hot and eventually blow. That's it's job unless the blower windings dissipate the heat or themselves blow.

Sixto
87 300D
By aging motor I meant a healthy running unit, not one jammed shut or filled with debris. My 83 w 297k with what I believe the original blower ran and sounded fine and draw 16 amps on high.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #22  
Old 08-22-2013, 01:09 PM
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I meant age as a surrogate term for accumulated wear. I suppose time installed and time in service don't necessarily cause wear. If all that wears is the brushes, you should be good until they wear out. That shouldn't blow the fuse.

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  #23  
Old 08-22-2013, 02:47 PM
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I do have a W123. Fuse 8 does get hot and it has melted the plastic. I do have a 1 amp fuse on the aux water pump. I did that 5 years ago, and it still has not blown. Never thought about the monovalve. I have replaced the diaphragm about two years ago though.

Any recommendations for a multimeter that will handle 20 to 30 amps?

All my GM older cars used a 30 amp fuse for the HVAC system.

I know the MB is drawing more that 16 amps and less than 25, since the 25 amp fuse has not blown.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2013, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I do have a W123. Fuse 8 does get hot and it has melted the plastic. I do have a 1 amp fuse on the aux water pump. I did that 5 years ago, and it still has not blown. Never thought about the monovalve. I have replaced the diaphragm about two years ago though.

Any recommendations for a multimeter that will handle 20 to 30 amps?

All my GM older cars used a 30 amp fuse for the HVAC system.

I know the MB is drawing more that 16 amps and less than 25, since the 25 amp fuse has not blown.
HF has a meter with a 20 amps input, it also has a thermocouple input which is very useful.

The monovalve blows the CCU trace only if you short it. I did that twice and fixed it twice, about 4 years apart on my 83 and 85. Both times while taking the connector apart to tighten the contacts, forgetting power was on. This reminds me to add fuses for the aux pump and monovalve in my 85 so the CCU will never blow again.

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  #25  
Old 08-22-2013, 03:35 PM
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I use an aftermarket ammeter like - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sun-cp8204 - to measure higher current draws like blowers, fans and glow plugs. Not very accurate but a reading within 20% tells me what I need to know. HF used to sell one for like $5 but I don't see it in their website today.

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  #26  
Old 08-22-2013, 03:57 PM
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When I got my '83 300D there was a 25A fuse in the #8 slot. There was a time when the fuse kept blowing too. Replaced the blower motor brushes and this has solved the problem (perhaps apart from a new set of fuses also).
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  #27  
Old 08-22-2013, 04:00 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

This one 20A capable. On sale $20

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #28  
Old 08-22-2013, 05:46 PM
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YEAH!!!! Thanks for the info!

Funola, what size fuse did you use for the monovalve? A one amp like the Aux water pump?
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #29  
Old 08-22-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
YEAH!!!! Thanks for the info!

Funola, what size fuse did you use for the monovalve? A one amp like the Aux water pump?
Don't know yet. Will measure current draw then add 30%?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2013, 09:41 PM
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I think I would go 20% lower than what the CCU can handle before the chase burn out.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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