My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

[OM617YOTA]

Thank you JB!

Finally got tracking info, new tank is supposed to be delivered this Friday. I think the vendor had it available instead of in stock.

I've burned through four prefilters since I ordered the replacement tank - when it gets rattly I know it's sucking air past the hose clamps and that it's time to change filters again. I rolled the dice and ordered a Racor 500FG "equivalent" knockoff from China. Pics look good, company looks good, supposed to be a pretty serious aftermarket filter supplier for China. Half the cost of a genuine 500FG from Ebay and 1/4 the cost of a genuine 500FG from an authorized Racor distributor. I'm curious to see how it turns out in reality.

The Chinese are really great at counterfeiting, and while obviously something is sacrificed, a lot of it is surprisingly good quality. A "genuine" 500FG from Ebay may well be exactly the same thing I purchased, just with a fancy counterfeit Racor sticker as well.

[interzonearts]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Thank you JB!

Finally got tracking info, new tank is supposed to be delivered this Friday. I think the vendor had it available instead of in stock.

I've burned through four prefilters since I ordered the replacement tank - when it gets rattly I know it's sucking air past the hose clamps and that it's time to change filters again. I rolled the dice and ordered a Racor 500FG "equivalent" knockoff from China. Pics look good, company looks good, supposed to be a pretty serious aftermarket filter supplier for China. Half the cost of a genuine 500FG from Ebay and 1/4 the cost of a genuine 500FG from an authorized Racor distributor. I'm curious to see how it turns out in reality.

The Chinese are really great at counterfeiting, and while obviously something is sacrificed, a lot of it is surprisingly good quality. A "genuine" 500FG from Ebay may well be exactly the same thing I purchased, just with a fancy counterfeit Racor sticker as well.

They're good because they make the 'brand' or 'genuine' stuff as well.
Would you be able to use the genuine inserts in case the 'aftermarket' inserts turn not so great?

[OM617YOTA]

Originally Posted by interzonearts

They're good because they make the 'brand' or 'genuine' stuff as well.
Would you be able to use the genuine inserts in case the 'aftermarket' inserts turn not so great?

Yep, takes the original elements, original heater if I so wish, water sensor, etc. They also make replacement elements for ~60% the cost of Racor, that will fit both this filter housing and genuine Racor housings.

Edit: My local NAPA has their Napa Gold/Wix brand replacement for these filters as well. 10 micron is stocked all the time and they can order anything.

Originally Posted by funola

The pre-filter is a very coarse filter. You can see the openings with the naked eye. I wash them in cleaners such as LA Awesome, Simple green, Purple Power etc then rinse with water, let dry and re-use them. I have not bought a pre-filter in many many years.

I use a paper filter in front of the stock primary filter. Stuff STILL gets past that paper filter and gets stuck in the stock primary filter.

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

.........
I use a paper filter in front of the stock primary filter. Stuff STILL gets past that paper filter and gets stuck in the stock primary filter.

Why are you using a paper filter before the primary filter? The clear primary filter is a coarse plastic screen. Paper element is finer than the primary coarse screen. Filters should go from coarse to medium to fine, filtration wise.

[OM617YOTA]

Originally Posted by funola

Why are you using a paper filter before the primary filter? The clear primary filter is a coarse plastic screen. Paper element is finer than the primary coarse screen. Filters should go from coarse to medium to fine, filtration wise.

Under normal circumstances, I agree with you 100%. Right now I'm just trying to limp the truck along until the new fuel tank comes in at the end of the week. Until then I'll be burning through filters, and the paper filters are by far the least expensive.

Edit: Once I burned through my stock of Fram paper filters, I started using Purolator paper filters. With Fram, I got junk in the primary filter AFTER the Fram filter. With the Purolator, nothing. Moral of the story: I won't be buying Fram again.

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

.....
I've burned through four prefilters since I ordered the replacement tank - when it gets rattly I know it's sucking air past the hose clamps and that it's time to change filters again. ........

The pre-filter is a very coarse filter. You can see the openings with the naked eye. I wash them in cleaners such as LA Awesome, Simple green, Purple Power etc then rinse with water, let dry and re-use them. I have not bought a pre-filter in many many years.

[Cadin]

I've always avoided Fram because I had heard bad stuff; but solid evidence is priceless! I usually default with Wix or Napa (Wix in disguise).

Thanks for the info on the Facor filters, the rainy season is upon us and I'd like to put a water/fuel separator in; a little extra filtration can't hurt while I'm at it!

[Cadin]

(As an Aside: I've had trouble with the prefilter plastic inlet/outlets, that don't have a metal collar, crushing and sucking air as well.)
(Photo only for example.)

[OM617YOTA]

Cadin-

Thanks for the tip on the metal-collared filters, I'll have to look for those!

First pic is of the dirtied filter, been having this happen about every 1/4 tank.

Second pic is an experiment, I taped a powerful neodymium magnet to the outside of the new filter. I'm curious to see what it will catch, if anything.

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Cadin-

Thanks for the tip on the metal-collared filters, I'll have to look for those!

First pic is of the dirtied filter, been having this happen about every 1/4 tank.

Second pic is an experiment, I taped a powerful neodymium magnet to the outside of the new filter. I'm curious to see what it will catch, if anything.

Cut the filter open (at seam where the clear joints the opaque) with sharp wire cutters and you'll see what I mean.

[OM617YOTA]

Originally Posted by funola

Cut the filter open (at seam where the clear joints the opaque) with sharp wire cutters and you'll see what I mean.

This one is a Napa/Wix, and I've seen nothing in the stock prefilter since then.

As an aside, after ordering that Facor(nice term, Cadin) I haven't received any responses at all from the vendor. This is China's National "Day" holiday, which actually lasts a week, and during which non-essentials in the whole country essentially shut down. I won't be surprised if it's next week before I get a tracking number. If anyone else decides to order one, just beware.

[OM617YOTA]

Got the new tank in, went pretty smoothly.

I drained the tank by running the return line into a gas can and idling the engine, and stopped when I saw the first fuel filter filling with air. It was 1/8th tank BELOW the empty line on the gauge when this happened. I refill at around 1/3rd tank and have never gone below 1/4 and will not change that, but knowing I have that kind of reserve(on flat level ground) is nice.

Six bolts on the skid plate, six more on the tank, disconnect all the plumbing, and it came down and was replaced easily. Still about a gallon of fuel in the bottom of the old tank. Dumped the fuel back in, changed all the filters, primed the system, she started up like normal. No leaks.

Truck seems to run better. Definitely smoother and seemingly more power. New filters had a good effect.

First two pics are self explanatory, the third is the best I could get of the old tank by sticking my phone inside the fuel pickup hole, and the last is the fuel filler port in the old tank. Just covered in flakey rust.

If anyone should need a tank for their Yota and is willing to do some work to make it useable, PM me.

Edit: Oh, and the magnet on fuel filter thing didn't catch anything.

[funola]

Originally Posted by Cadin

(As an Aside: I've had trouble with the prefilter plastic inlet/outlets, that don't have a metal collar, crushing and sucking air as well.)
(Photo only for example.)

Yep, without the brass collar supporting the plastic, the plastic will slowly compress and shrink in diameter and never provide a perfect seal.

[OM617YOTA]

Had my first outright parts failure - the turn buckle I was using as a tensioner for the alternator broke. Replaced with a slightly more stout version. Noticed it when the belt squealed on startup for the first time ever. Shut her down, checked belt tension, it was loose! Went to adjust tension and saw the broken turn buckle. Threw a hose clamp on it to hold it together long enough to get home, then ran out and bought a new turn buckle.

[Cadin]

I am using a very modified stock bracket myself and had it crack. I tack welded it back together for the moment, but I like the turn buckle idea. Maybe keep a trail spare...