I used the search function, but didn't find much other than how to change the oil.

I was looking for a Mann oil filter, but there wasn't any to be found. I went to Pep Boys and Autozone and they both didn't have the Mann filter. So I had to go with a Purolator oil filter. Says "Made in india" on the side. Anyways, there was 3 things that came with it: a rubber O-ring, and 3 washers (2 of them were the same size and one was bigger than the other two). I didn't use any of the washers. There was a washer on the drain plug, but the one that came with the oil filter was bigger than the one already on the drain plug so I just left the one on the plug on. When I oppened up the oil filter canister, there were no washers on so I decided not to use the two other copper washers that came with the filter.

I'm just confused about the washers. Did anyone else not have any washers when they oppened up the oil filter canister? What washers come with the Mann filter?


Oh, I used Cheveron Delo 400 15W-40 for the oil.

The copper washers are for two different sized drain plugs, you only use one.

The rubber gasket/o-ring goes on the lid of the oil filter canister, be sure to take off the old one or you will have a big mess once you start the car (I learned the hard way).

I've used purilator filters alot in my 300D, never had a problem.

The german OE filters are actually cheaper mailorder. I think I paid $9/filter for the Purilator while I pad $7/filter for the german stuff.

I use NAPA filters. But I think I pay about $11.00 or so. (And they're probably made by someone else.)

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
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'84 SD
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'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
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I think there's a thread here somewhere about bad NAPA filters.

My recommendation is to find a source of Mann oil filters, and order them in bulk to save on shipping costs.

I found a really, really good price on the 5-cyl Mann filters and now have something like 25 of them ahead. It is a high quality filter.

Ken300D

MB sells both Mann and Hengst brands as oem filters.

Both are probably superior to your average purolator/napa filters.

A lot of MB models use the same filter--that's why there are a bunch of extra washers in there. I never use any of them, since I evacuate out the dipstick tube (as Mercedes recommends).

Dweller, Is there a standard tool used to evacuate the oil through the dipstick tube ? Where did you get yours ? I am assuming yours is a powered tool... not just siphoning after you get the flow started ..... I have always been against this philosophically because I think it can not evacuate the sludge from the bottom of the pan as well as the drain plug... but if MB says it is ok it would sure be convenient sometimes... Greg

I use a "Topsider" which pumps 2.5 gallons, using a hand vacuum pump--you pump up a vacuum in the tank, then open the tube that goes down the dipstick. The Topsider is sold mostly through marine stores (like West Marine or Boater's world). It's about $45 but often on sale for $30-$35. Lots of people on this forum use the Topsider.

MB dealers use a more elaborate electric pump. You can buy one, but it runs $350 or something like that. There's an ad in most issues of the MBCA Star magazine. There are a lot of other electric models--again marine stores are the primary source (since in most boats, you can't get underneath the engine to drain the oil).

Thanks, I wonder if on boats they make the pan so that the pickup for changing the oil is at the lowest point... unlike most auto engine pans...
I thought Topsider's were certain shoes yacht people wore... LOL... Greg

SV

You still have to get under the car to drain the oil cooler. It is not necessary to remove the oil line, just loosen the fitting nut until the oil trickles out. It is best to let it drain overnight. Don't forget to tighten the oil line fitting.

You might also replace the O-rings on the end of the rod attached to the oli filter lid.

A topsider wouldn't be of much help to me. It seems I'm away from home when an oil change is due. Last week it was in SC, once in TX and once in KY. I always try to change the oil close to the exact number of miles.

P E H

Bill, I'll be sure to get the Mann filter from Fastlane next time.
P.E.Haiges, I didn't even touch the oil cooler .

You actually drain your oil cooler ever time you change your oil??

Turbodiesel,

Yes, I drain the oil cooler every time I change the oil. Since I use a engine flush I like to get as much of the flush and old dirty oil as I can.

P E H

Hmm...Sounds risky to be loosening the oil cooler line every time. If you strip or misalign the threads there you're going to be in for some $$$ to fix it! I don't think I've ever read anything from MB or anywhere that recommends doing that.

Mike

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1979 300 SD
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1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
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1985 300TD
270,000 miles
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1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

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Mike,

If you didn't notice I don't remove the oil cooler connection completely. That way there is no chance to damage the threads. These guys who are worried about getting the last drop of oil out of the pan are fooling then selves if thay don't drain the oil cooler. There is about 4 ounces of oil left in the cooler.

I learned this from a mechanic who was a graduate apprentice at Mercedes in Germany. He was doing it to his own car at the time. He had been repairing Mercedes for more that 25 years and had his own service workshop.

So now you heard about draining the oil cooler.

P E H