Hello everyone, time for a new member to post!

So I have lurked, unregistered, since I first purchased my 300D last October.
1985 w123 Naturally aspirated Euro 300D that has:
A/C (not connected, never has been. Odd setup, feels like the compressor is on it's last leg when turned by hand)
Sunroof
Cruise Control (not working)


So, when I bought this Merc, I had really no idea what I was getting into, or what a decent price was for the vehicle.
I ended up paying $1000 for it. At the time, it turned over, but didn't run. It was dented, and completely trashed.
It's been about a year now, and I have been using it as my daily driver to and from high school. It's about 70 miles round trip, in a high altitude (I start at 6,000ft and have to go over a mountain). I've put about 15k on it.

I have been able to figure out most things fairly easily, though a few still escape me-- despite the wondrous help that the Haynes Manual provides... which isn't much. I have pretty much given up on that, and have only been using it for technical specifications (i.e. valve clearances and such).

So, unfortunately, the person who had this before me was a bit of a drinker. There is a dent in the rear end, center of both the trunk lid and the trunk itself. Most of the damage seems to be in the lid though, thankfully.
The next bit of damage, that is a bit more difficult to make out, is what I think is called the radiator support (not really sure). It is the piece that has the information plate, the radiator sits directly behind it, and the aux fan in front of it.
Looking down at it, the immediate problem would be that it is angled a bit downward, so the hood has to travel a bit further to latch.
The other problem that is more of a pain in the a-- I mean neck-- is the fact that it is about two inches shorter than the factory setup, which does not allow for me to fit the euro headlights in, nor does it allow for the proper adjustment of the hood.
While I am not yet concerned with aesthetics, meaning the back dent is not a problem, I am concerned with the front. Does anyone know of a cost-effective way to redo/fix the front end?

The next issues have to do with the automatic transmission. So, when shifting, the transmission takes an unusually long amount of time between shifts-- at least compared to past experience. This is much more prevalent when attempting to accelerate in a timely manner, probably because the rpm's are higher.
In my infinite knowledge as a sixteen year old teenager, I am assuming it has something to do with a governor in the transmission not being adjusted properly.

A third bit of concern is the lack of power. When getting on to the interstate, I tend to have a bit of a.. nervous hesitation? I don't really know, but I guess it is more of a personal problem than anything else, though I do know what causes it. I have a moderately steep incline, from which I am supposed merge into traffic moving at about 75mph, and by the time I reach the top of the hill, I am usually only going about 45-50mph (while the other cars will be up to speed).
I have not adjusted the injection delivery system at all, although it is set to a different spot than the factory tick mark (I believe it is advanced.. presumably to aid in cold starts?).

And my final problem, which relates back to the most recent two, is that the engine seems to run out of power fairly quickly. I have checked and adjusted my throttle linkage, but that hasn't helped much.

So, I have looked through what I could of the forums today, and I haven't found much information about these specific problems. Unfortunately, because of a certain nameless being *cough cough my dog cough*, my normal computer is not able to function, so I am using a school computer, which seems to have an issue with the search thingy.

Pictures will be coming tomorrow, probably! It is currently dark, and I need to pay a visit to the pressure washer before I take any pictures! My car, while painted white, is more of a tan/mud color right now than anything else!

Any subsequent posts will probably be a lot shorter, sorry about the length of this one!

Thanks in advance for any help!!
~hetiticth


P.S. Any cheap ways to increase performance would be appreciated!

P.P.S. I have a limited access to tools, though I can borrow most of what I need. Unfortunately, no access at all to any welding equipment.

the automatic transmission sounds like its flaring. thats a common problem are there are probably (literally) hundreds of threads about it. it could take you days to read through all of them! the shifting quality (hard/softness) of the shifts on these cars is controlled by vacuum. if the shifts are too soft it will "flare" between shifts (take a long time).

running out of power could really just be a result of your elevation and driving a non-turbo car. how badly does it bog down? for example, at 6000ft and a steep incline, i probably wouldn't expect you to top 50mph, especially if its in 4th.

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

My truck has the same engine and i'm also dealing with a power loss issue. IF you come across another 300D N/A drive it and see what the difference is.

Lack of power check list
Are your injectors spraying correctly?
Is your to timing chain stretched?
Are your filters clean? (This includes the tank strainer)
What is the condition of your injection pump?
When was your last valve adjustment?
How is your compression?

There are others but those are the basics for now.

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."

If it shifts into 4th, I tend to lose speed going up the hill, so rather than having it constantly revving extremely high, I let off the throttle a bit. Once I am up to speed though (after the hill levels off), it is pretty decent at maintaining its speed.

Is it safe to assume that a lack of a proper vacuum will result in a softer shift?

Are your injectors spraying correctly? I believe so, though I haven't gone through and checked them yet.
Is your to timing chain stretched? Nope, not at all.
Are your filters clean? (This includes the tank strainer) Yes, although I hadn't thought about the tank strainer-- it probably isn't clean I had been planning on dropping the fuel tank itself, and cleaning it, though I haven't had enough time to do so.
What is the condition of your injection pump? Couldn't say, it looks okay from the outside, and it doesn't leak.
When was your last valve adjustment? 8k-ish ago. Doing an adjustment on Saturday, and I may fiddle a bit with the injector delivery pump timing.
How is your compression? Haven't tested it. Can you test it without taking the injectors off?


Is there any prescribed fiddling involving the injector pump, or should I just have at it?
Also, I have the Euro style pump. Does anyone know if I need to loosen more than three nuts in order to adjust it? (Just by a quick feel, I only found the three)

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1984 300D (Turbo)
1949 Dodge B-1-C 3/4 Ton truck
1985 Euro w123.130 300D (Naturally Aspirated)(bad transmission)

I have studied many philosophers and many cats. The wisdom of cats is infinitely superior.--Hippolyte Taine

Please, don't touch the injection pump.....it has nothing to do with your issues....don't touch it, till all the other stuff is up to power and then if you really really really and I mean really feel the urge mess with the injection pump....

Start with the fuel system, drop the tank and clean clean clean.....install new fuel filters both, replace fuel line....install new primer pump.....have your injectors rebuilt or get a rebuilt set....great member here does that...

Next valve adjustment, air filter, oil change

Third linkages, don't just play with them set them to the proper FSM specs....I doubt your car is an 1985 so use the 1981 with type m pump specs

30 Accelerator Control - OM617

Now let's focus on transmission...a trans that isn't working correct will also effect performance...

Service the trans, drain the old oil....from the torque converter and trans....replace with dex/merc fluid and new filter....read the dipstick when the car is warm and idling in park....

Fix any vacuum issues....

And confirm the Bowden cable if you have one is correctly adjust and not broke...

Confirm that all the shifter bushings are in place....should be four of them.

Now lastly, let's face facts....your car is slower then a Volkswagen bug....I believe yours is 88hp, in altitude they lose 33%.....your hill speed is totally on track.....I have a non turbo, that I believe its pretty close to full service and maintenance....I reach a hill here and I am down to 50mph.....

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My car is an 85 Euro Naturally Aspirated 300d (which is a gray market car-- privately imported to North America).

I know that the timing is off, as it has a rough idle (even when warm). Because of this, I would like to mess with injection pump.

Where did you get your info on altitude power loss? Using that rule, I lose about 30hp because of altitude (assuming I have 88), which would put me at 58hp. And that's without account for the drive train loss, which I know averages between 13% and 15%. Add that in, and I lose another 8hp, putting me at a grand total of 50hp.

Somehow I think that isn't quite right.

I know my vacuum system is complete and does not leak, does anyone know what the stock vacuum pump should be pulling?

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1984 300D (Turbo)
1949 Dodge B-1-C 3/4 Ton truck
1985 Euro w123.130 300D (Naturally Aspirated)(bad transmission)

I have studied many philosophers and many cats. The wisdom of cats is infinitely superior.--Hippolyte Taine

I'll include a picture in a bit of the panel that says the importation stuff. It is rather difficult to read, so I need to go through and rub some graphite on there so when I take a picture you can read it

This weekend, I tackled the valves, and fiddled with the Bowden cable. I had messed with it before, in order to help with the shifting, so this time I didn't really get any further benefit out of it. Oh well

The vacuum is on a closed system that excludes the central locking system, as there is a leak somewhere that I have yet to find. The way it is set up though, it does not leak.

Are the fuel strainers generally re-usable? I've seen that people have cleaned them and put them back on, but I wasn't sure this would be a good idea..

Still have a rough idle after valve adjust. Still looking into adjusting the IP.


I am fairly positive the injectors are factory, and haven't been removed or replaced yet. I was very very disappointed with the amount of care this car received from the previous owner-- so a detail like this wouldn't surprise me.



EDIT: Will also be looking for a white trunk lid in the central NM area.

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1984 300D (Turbo)
1949 Dodge B-1-C 3/4 Ton truck
1985 Euro w123.130 300D (Naturally Aspirated)(bad transmission)

I have studied many philosophers and many cats. The wisdom of cats is infinitely superior.--Hippolyte Taine

I would replace the injectors before messing with the IP. The tank screens can be cleaned and reused.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

They're cleanable but a genuine one is $20, I just replace them. If you've got the tank drained and you've dug up a 46mm socket. Why not just put in a brand new one with a brand new seal.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Money is a bit of an issue, so I am trying to save costs where I can, so I'll likely just clean it. Is there any specific way to do so, or can I just wash it off with water, then finish with carb spray?

(All repairs and the insurance come out of my pocket, fuel is out of my mom's because I take my sister to school every day and hardly ever go out-- it's an hour to town.)

Stevo-- should I replace the whole injectors, or just the nozzles?

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1984 300D (Turbo)
1949 Dodge B-1-C 3/4 Ton truck
1985 Euro w123.130 300D (Naturally Aspirated)(bad transmission)

I have studied many philosophers and many cats. The wisdom of cats is infinitely superior.--Hippolyte Taine

You stated the chain isn't stretched but you think the IP timing is off. How do you know it's not stretched? I agree, don't mess with the IP until you have checked everything else.

There was a fellow here, Sean something, cant remember, that will install new nozzles and balance your injectors. Perhaps someone can chime in. He did a couple sets for me and cured my rough idling. I'll find his name eventuality if no one chimes in.

As to the strainer. The hose is attached to a brass fitting that screws into the tank (strainer). Cut the 'wings" that fold around the hose and you can reuse the fitting. Otherwise you have to buy a new hose with fitting instead of just a new chunk of hose. That will save you a couple bucks. After you get as much fuel out of the tank as you can, jack up the rear passenger side of the car and you wont get a diesel shower when you drop the strainer.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Seventy mile round trip to high school, I used to walk that and both ways were uphill. There is only so much you can expect from your vehicle, so I think if you follow what Cooljay recommends that should suffice.

Here is a thread concerning Sean Watts, injector re-builder
HAS ANYONE HEARD FROM C SEAN WATTS ???

hopefully hes doing better with his back problem.

If hes not around you can install the new nozzles and if you luck out, balancing wont be necessary. I have successfully done it. I know from running commercial boats if a Jimmy needs a new injector the engineer just sticks in another one and away we go. Of course this may not always be the case with MBs, but you can always pull them back out and take them to a diesel shop for balancing if she still runs rough. I use Monark nozzles.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Contact this member for fuel injection service.....I wouldn't do it myself.....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/323971-fuel-injector-service.html

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