1985 w123 Euro 300D (Non-Turbo) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mölyapina · #16 10-01-2013, 01:27 PM

Greazzer is the injector service king -- he is the guy cooljjay linked to. I would go with him.

Stevo · #17 10-01-2013, 06:45 PM

Pulling your injectors and replacing the nozzles is not a big deal. Just like any other job, replacing a water pump or adjusting the valves. You need to have the right tools and have an idea what your doing (have the manual) and take your time. Its not magic. I had Sean do mine when I could afford it but in the past when funds were low or non existent I did it myself, what can go wrong

hetiticth · #18 10-01-2013, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zorecati

You stated the chain isn't stretched but you think the IP timing is off. How do you know it's not stretched? I agree, don't mess with the IP until you have checked everything else.

I ended up putting a new chain on, as it had never been replaced before, and I figured it would be a good investment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

As to the strainer. The hose is attached to a brass fitting that screws into the tank (strainer). Cut the 'wings" that fold around the hose and you can reuse the fitting. Otherwise you have to buy a new hose with fitting instead of just a new chunk of hose. That will save you a couple bucks. After you get as much fuel out of the tank as you can, jack up the rear passenger side of the car and you wont get a diesel shower when you drop the strainer.

If the filter is very clogged, would a tank cleaning fluid be a decent investment? (A Biocide?)

Also, where are the vents on the tank located? I am having a bit of a collapsing issue with the tank. The fuel cap hisses when you take it off the car (after driving it).

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloride

Seventy mile round trip to high school, I used to walk that and both ways were uphill. There is only so much you can expect from your vehicle, so I think if you follow what Cooljay recommends that should suffice.

We have a horse, but it isn't as fast...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

If hes not around you can install the new nozzles and if you luck out, balancing wont be necessary. I have successfully done it. I know from running commercial boats if a Jimmy needs a new injector the engineer just sticks in another one and away we go. Of course this may not always be the case with MBs, but you can always pull them back out and take them to a diesel shop for balancing if she still runs rough. I use Monark nozzles.

With the balancing of the injectors, does anyone know how large of a standard deviation they are allowed to have before they need to be replaced?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Contact this member for fuel injection service.....I wouldn't do it myself.....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/323971-fuel-injector-service.html

Many thanks, though I fear that I will probably not go anywhere for injection service, unless it is local (very unlikely), because I generally only have the weekends to get things done.

Are there differences between the turbo and the NA injectors?

I sure hope I can get a steadier job, yardwork is starting to not cut it anymore

Maybe some of the local mechanics could use some low wage help...

hetiticth · #19 10-01-2013, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

Pulling your injectors and replacing the nozzles is not a big deal. Just like any other job, replacing a water pump or adjusting the valves. You need to have the right tools and have an idea what your doing (have the manual) and take your time. Its not magic. I had Sean do mine when I could afford it but in the past when funds were low or non existent I did it myself, what can go wrong

What manual did you use? I've a Haynes manual that has most of the pages torn out that I got from the last owner, and that isn't very helpful, so... I have had to run to the computer a few times

It seems to me like it would be pretty easy to just take it off and replace the nozzle.. I thought it a little odd that everyone was suggesting sending them off. Maybe I'll find out that it isn't so easy as it seems... I think I am prepared!

P.S. I never knew that there were so many different smiles that one could add into their posts... everyone be prepared!

Stevo · #20 10-01-2013, 07:26 PM

If the screen is gunked up a hefty treatment of a Biobar or the like is needed. You may need to pull the tank, Ive never had to. Have plenty of fuel filters in the trunk and dont forget the wrench and some clean fuel to fill the filter before starting back up. Even if the screens clean a treatment of Biobar is a good idea especially with winter coming on.

As I remember the tank vent is hanging down, driver side of the tank, it should have a "bell" shaped gizmo on the bottom.

Stevo · #21 10-01-2013, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hetiticth

What manual did you use? I've a Haynes manual that has most of the pages torn out that I got from the last owner, and that isn't very helpful, so... I have had to run to the computer a few times

It seems to me like it would be pretty easy to just take it off and replace the nozzle.. I thought it a little odd that everyone was suggesting sending them off. Maybe I'll find out that it isn't so easy as it seems... I think I am prepared!

P.S. I never knew that there were so many different smiles that one could add into their posts... everyone be prepared!

I have a set of MB manuals. They are available on line but I dont have the link. The pictures and illustrations are not great but not bad for free. The Haynes is OK for allot of things. Cheltons is pretty worthless.

You really need a good vice when getting those injectors apart and be very careful not to mix up parts. I would invest in manuals and some tools if your up for working on these cars, they are really very DIY friendly.

cooljjay · #22 10-01-2013, 09:46 PM

Wow you replaced the timing chain with out even checking stretch?

Have you rechecked the timing since you replaced the chain?

As I remember reading, there is key that is added to take up slack which must be removed after a chain replacement, the tensioner I believe is also suppose to be changed...

Tank is collapsing.....you need to fix that asap.....that will cause an issue, the tank is really easy to remove.....and blow out all the lines...

New Page 1

Since we haven't got photos, I can't say what year your car is....but this link covers non turbo engines....just use 1981 as your model....engine OM617

Model 123 - OM617 Non-Turbo Maintenance Manuals

hetiticth · #23 10-01-2013, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

I have a set of MB manuals. They are available on line but I dont have the link. The pictures and illustrations are not great but not bad for free. The Haynes is OK for allot of things. Cheltons is pretty worthless.

You really need a good vice when getting those injectors apart and be very careful not to mix up parts. I would invest in manuals and some tools if your up for working on these cars, they are really very DIY friendly.

I've got a pretty decent set so far, and I am amassing more and more as I get further into the work on the merc (it rhymes...

). It seems to me like the further into the work I get, the larger sockets I need!

I am looking into getting a welder so that I can fashion some tools of my own, as well as to more advanced bodywork.

vstech · #24 10-01-2013, 10:33 PM

wow... the NA euro in high altitude... with a clogged tank vent. it's a wonder you can climb the hills at all!
pull the bell off the tank vent tube, and that will solve that, next you need to verify fuel supply pressure. member funola has a kit to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to pretty cheap.
I agree, you need to verify your timing placement. open the valve cover back up, and line up the cam notch with the tower arrow, and see where the balancer pointer hits. if it's around 2-6 you have a key in there that needs to come out, and replace with a straight key.
also check the throttle linkage. have someone step on the accelerator to the floor and look to see if the throttle stop is reached on the IP.

hetiticth · #25 10-01-2013, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Wow you replaced the timing chain with out even checking stretch?

Have you rechecked the timing since you replaced the chain?

As I remember reading, there is key that is added to take up slack which must be removed after a chain replacement, the tensioner I believe is also suppose to be changed...

Tank is collapsing.....you need to fix that asap.....that will cause an issue, the tank is really easy to remove.....and blow out all the lines...

New Page 1

Since we haven't got photos, I can't say what year your car is....but this link covers non turbo engines....just use 1981 as your model....engine OM617

Model 123 - OM617 Non-Turbo Maintenance Manuals

Could've sworn I put up a photo or two, but I went back and checked, and nothing was there! Gah! I guess using the URL from an album doesn't work.. photobucket, here I come!

I hadn't checked the chain before, but I had heard that you were supposed to change them every 200,000 miles for the w123's (don't ask who, don't really remember...). The chain, and tensioner were both replaced.
I checked it this weekend (a total of about 15k miles on the chain), and I don't remember seeing any significant amount of stretch as compared to what the factory said would occur (it is a little under 2 degrees-- so like 10.75 ATDC).

For my tank, I have been using a plastic fuel cap with a hole poked in it in order to keep it from collapsing, and it has been working pretty well. I do have a proper cap waiting, I just need to get the issue solved before that goes on!

hetiticth · #26 10-01-2013, 10:48 PM

Pictures... hopefully.

The engine compartment has since been cleaned. I'll try to get out and take a few more pictures tomorrow, and throw them up.

cooljjay · #27 10-01-2013, 10:48 PM

That's a myth about changing the chains on these cars ever 100k.....other cars that is mandatory but if this one shows no stretch or the stretch is below the FSM specs there is no need to change it.....or you just add a simple 4 deg key to fix the stretch......what I have read, stretch is really only the result of not properly adjusting your valves......my car had 4 deg stretch I think it was.....perfectly fine and I know I have 200+k even though the odometer shows 160k.....one day I may add a key but it is nothing worth fixing tomorrow.....

vstech · #28 10-01-2013, 11:08 PM

no, stretch has nothing to do with valve adjustment, stretch is simply a wearing of the chain and or gears. the only thing that impacts longevity of the chain is oil change interval and oil quality.

vstech · #29 10-01-2013, 11:09 PM

and, the key will not fix everything affected by the chain stretch, only the cam timing is fixed, you still have to alter the injection timing to match the cam timing...

hetiticth · #30 10-01-2013, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

wow... the NA euro in high altitude... with a clogged tank vent. it's a wonder you can climb the hills at all!
pull the bell off the tank vent tube, and that will solve that, next you need to verify fuel supply pressure. member funola has a kit to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to pretty cheap.

I will be tackling this sometime this week... I wonder if it is partially collapsed

The most I have ever put in was 14 gallons (after I had run it out of fuel)...

Will probably post more pictures and stuff tomorrow, but for now I am getting off.

Until next time, and thanks everyone