w201 front suspension rebuild: what to replace? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

w123fanman · #1 10-02-2013, 11:54 PM

I will be removing the steering knuckle assembly (hub, spindle, abs sensor,etc) from my parts car to my car. I also will be probably replacing the struts, strut mounts and tie rods. Anything else I should think of replacing while I am at it? This car has 315,000 miles and many original suspension components if that helps. This will be my first suspension rebuild (working with a friend) so I am really not certain on what should be replaced while I am doing this so even what you think may be the obvious answer is what I want to hear. I have spent a few hours researching but still don't know what I want to know.
I found this diagram on ***** website. Mercedes Front Suspension - Mercedes Parts And Accessories[/url]
If that posts, that may be a guide as to what you can point out as something I should just go ahead and replace/repair while most everything is apart.
Speaking on *****, does anyone know of the quality of the parts they sell? I can never tel what brand the parts are and some of the prices seem a bit low. Of course I would love to go with Pelican but whoever has what I need for a better value, I will go with them.
Also, when it comes to struts, I want Bilstein (or if there is another brand any of you would recommend, I would look into them). but really am not sure about what model. I am looking for a bit sportier/heavy duty struts as they classify them on their site, but there seems to be several different options in each category. I know the B8 are for lowered cars and I would get those if I could find the correct lowering springs (finding these parts numbers is hard with all of the posts there are on other forums about not asking for parts numbers because they have been covered in old threads, which turn out to be difficult to find). I also know the B4 are intended as OEM replacement and the B6 are supposed to be "sports" but there are several of both B4 and B6 struts listed and I have no clue how to know what I want between things like mono and dual tube.

vstech · #2 10-03-2013, 12:05 AM

sorry, it's against the rules to mention or link to competing parts sales sites.

as for what parts to get, I'd get OE Mercedes equivalent... that's TRW for most front end parts, and Lemforder for rubber parts.

everyone understands that shopping around is part of working on these old cars, but this site isn't going to promote the competition to what keeps the site running!

Stretch · #3 10-03-2013, 01:21 AM

I'm kind of in the middle of this very job at the moment on my W201 (amongst other things of course)

I'm planning on replacing as little as possible as I really can't tell which spares are a good long term buy any more. On my 170,000 km vehicle it looks like there's been a new steering idler arm and new eccentric bolts and bushings fitted to the lower control arms - that helps me 'cos I don't have to replace them but they seem to be the parts that most people have to change.

I'm swapping out tie rod boots and greasing up the as many of the old joints as I can.

I'm rebuilding the steering box.

I'm replacing the struts with Sachs super touring. I hope that they will stop the nose diving under hard braking I experienced but provide enough comfort for my old bones! I found HD Bilsteins on my W123 to be a bit too jiggly.

The front springs on the W123 are scary - these W201 ones don't look too too bad but still need to be treated with respect.

I'll probably replace the anti-roll bar bushings and I might do the shock rubber top bits if they look a bit grotty when I get them out.

pawoSD · #4 10-03-2013, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

sorry, it's against the rules to mention or link to competing parts sales sites.

as for what parts to get, I'd get OE Mercedes equivalent... that's TRW for most front end parts, and Lemforder for rubber parts.

everyone understands that shopping around is part of working on these old cars, but this site isn't going to promote the competition to what keeps the site running!

It really doesn't cost that much to run a site like this, I could add a site like this one to my existing web server infrastructure with no issues.

(possibly adding some extra bandwidth but thats it) If paying for dedicated virtual hosting, maybe $200-300 a month. A site like this can likely cover/exceed its own costs just through ad revenue.

Either way, its still good to support those that run forums like this.

I agree on sticking with lemfoerder and TRW parts! Nothing else will last at all!

jay_bob · #5 10-03-2013, 07:58 AM

There are a couple other ad-infested forums, rife with popups and display ads, that I try to avoid even looking at if I can help it. Benz world and mb world come to mind.

I like the relative lack of ads on this site and I'm happy to support the store to keep it that way. I totaled up my receipts, I have spent several thousand there in the last 2 years.

That said, I have no problem checking the dealer to see if their (cost + lead time) is < (cost + shipping + my ability to wait) from here. Especially on heavy stuff like brake rotors

vstech · #6 10-03-2013, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

It really doesn't cost that much to run a site like this, I could add a site like this one to my existing web server infrastructure with no issues.

(possibly adding some extra bandwidth but thats it) If paying for dedicated virtual hosting, maybe $200-300 a month. A site like this can likely cover/exceed its own costs just through ad revenue.

Either way, its still good to support those that run forums like this.

I agree on sticking with lemfoerder and TRW parts! Nothing else will last at all!

... there are rules everyone agreed to when joining the site. if they are not obeyed, the member gets removed from the site...

I can think of no business I'd like to get into that operates on a cost met basis... if it's not profitable, it's not worth doing.

pawoSD · #7 10-03-2013, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

... there are rules everyone agreed to when joining the site. if they are not obeyed, the member gets removed from the site...

I can think of no business I'd like to get into that operates on a cost met basis... if it's not profitable, it's not worth doing.

Something operated on a low profit or neutral basis is called a hobby.

Many things that are not profitable are worth doing, thats called charity.

jay_bob · #8 10-03-2013, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Something operated on a low profit or neutral basis is called a hobby.

Many things that are not profitable are worth doing, thats called charity.

I think my hobby is definitely operating in the profit-negative region...

vstech · #9 10-03-2013, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Something operated on a low profit or neutral basis is called a hobby.

Many things that are not profitable are worth doing, thats called charity.

Profit is measured in many ways... charity is emotional profit... and well worth doing... but it wont pay employees!

JamesDean · #10 10-03-2013, 12:55 PM

Back to the OP's questions:

315k miles I'd replace the whole front end. I just did that on my w201, it had 220k on it. Granted it was lowered so that might have expedited wear.

Parts to Replace and Recommended Brands and my price estimates:
Strut Mounts, Mercedes, $50/each
Struts, Bilstein [B4, Heavy Duty Suspension, Twintube Strut Assembly, since you said you wanted HD. Part Numbers: 22-003621, F4V360189H0, 138210], $130/each
Control Arms, Lemforder (with sport bushings), $200/each
Coil Springs, Lesjofors or Mercedes, $80/each
Tie Rods, TRW or Lemforder, $50/each
Center Drag Link, TRW or Lemforder, $50-60
Idler Arm Bushing, Lemforder, $40
Wheel Bearings, SKF, $20/side
Steering Gear Box, Maval or C & M...$430

I think that about completes the list...

sixto · #11 10-03-2013, 01:02 PM

At 300K miles I don't imagine the LCA bushings and ball joints are in great shape. You can replace the bushings and ball joints or get assembled LCAs and not bother with the tedious job of replacing the bushings. The MB special tool doesn't help in removing the old bushings.

If the car is a keeper, stay away from brands like Uro and Meyle and even Febi these days. Sadly, Peachparts sells those brands to accommodate people who shop on price. The previous sponsor carried only respectable brands so shopping there was a no brainer from quality standpoint. I debated this privately with one of the Peachparts principals to no avail (to me) so do your homework.

Sixto
87 300D

Stretch · #12 10-03-2013, 03:02 PM

I've some pictures of my suspension "progress" I made today here =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/341121-achtung-das-schweinhund-baby-benz-thread-16.html

pawoSD · #13 10-03-2013, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Profit is measured in many ways... charity is emotional profit... and well worth doing... but it wont pay employees!

Very True.

vstech · #14 10-03-2013, 04:24 PM

I've noticed my 201 tends to wander above 80mph... the bumper is damaged, so I'm sure the aero is pretty hosed, but I'm sure the suspension needs some tweaking.
also, I've noticed when hard stopping the car nosedives pretty good...
does anybody know of a front/rear anti-dive bar? or kit?

overall, it's very tight, and nimble.

pawoSD · #15 10-03-2013, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I've noticed my 201 tends to wander above 80mph... the bumper is damaged, so I'm sure the aero is pretty hosed, but I'm sure the suspension needs some tweaking.
also, I've noticed when hard stopping the car nosedives pretty good...
does anybody know of a front/rear anti-dive bar? or kit?

overall, it's very tight, and nimble.

I have similar issues with mine. Though going over 80 is a difficult proposition with an OM601.