Sooooo -

I installed my new lifters today (pre-oiled), got the cam aligned and all the cam towers properly tightened and am ready to attach the cam sprocket.

Problem - I needed to first install the upper timing chain guide.

Before I started this I had plenty of slack in my timing chain (the main tensioner is not yet installed).

Shortly after sliding the upper timing chain guide rail into position, the IP suddenly pulled on the chain, luckily I had a good grip on it. Damn! I went on ahead and got the guide rail installed (both pins went in nicely considering it took two days to get them out). So, now I need to get my chain pulled enough to fit around the cam sprocket and back onto the cam.

Any ideas? Is my IP timing hosed now? I did not have any kind of IP locking device installed.

Looks like I was a little off, it's my vacuum pump that's pulling my chain (he he he).

I experienced that sensation too yesterday when rolling in a new chain on my OM601, all my marks line up fine after I was done, so I think there's no issue. Tonight I am replacing my lifters, almost done at this point, just need to re-install the camshaft/sprocket and tensioner. Then its all set.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

You're doing this with the cam at #1 TDC, right? Remove the vacuum pump, loosen the injector lines then slowly turn the IP sprocket bolt CCW until there is no chain slack between the IP and crank.

Sixto
87 300D

Did you strap the timing chain to the sprocket when you removed the head? This is very important if you do not want to re-adjust the timing. If you did then you just put the sprocket back and timing will be OK. I never use a locking device to lock the IP.

Good luck.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Mine is back together and running good! Sounds much better with new lifters and timing chain! Went from 4ish degrees stretch to 0 degrees.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

When I grow up, I want to be just like you. I'm getting so close now, I can almost hear the lifters clacking lightly.

I evidentially like to live life on the edge.......I wasn't aware of that tip when I took the head off. I did set the crank to TDC and the cam sprocket tic mark also aligned with the #1 cam tower mark. So I should be in sync fairly closely. The sprocket will only go on one way, and the chain ain't moving as long as I don't rotate the crank. At least, that's what I keep telling myself :-)

I sure did. I knew enough to be sure of that detail. As I just mentioned, I did not secure the chain to the sprocket, Just took it all the way off and wrapped it in a rag. I have read several places where I should remove the pump bolts slowly to keep from damaging them when the pump spring starts pushing.

For sure I'll follow your tip to carefully rotate the IP sprocket bolt like you described.

Sure is a good thing that I have everything out of the way for this!

Thanks for the tips!

Hmmm - OK - So my problem is this; I lost all of my chain slack when I was trying to put the cam sprocket back on (it suddenly pulled out of my hands) - tuirns out my vacuum pump spring tugged on it and now it is tight. So, I followed some advice and removed the vacuum pump (it was easy) - I was able to get back about 2 inches of chain, but that is no where near enough to get the chain back around the cam sprocket. My hydraulic tensioner is not installed, the vacuum pump is out, I can see the timing chain around the driver side of the sprocket (that sits behind the vacuum pump). What am I missing here? Am I supposed to try rotating the sprocket inside the area where the vacuum pump mounts? (I have not done this by the way)....

Thank you everyone for the endless supply of help and advice !

Did you remove the upper guide? Loosen the injector lines, hold the crank steady and very slowly turn the IP CCW until there's no slack between the IP sprocket and crank.

Sixto
87 300D

Nope - I was installing the upper guide when I lost all of my slack. When I was putting my head back together (replaced my #14 head) - I looked in there and saw that the upper guide was going to be tough to put in - so I assumed the best time to install it was when I had the sprocket off. As I was sliding the upper guide down into the head, something tripped and away went my slack. Right now both the upper and lower guide rail pins are fully installed. Am I supposed to put the upper guide in after I install the cam sprocket? Also - none of the injector lines are connected (the injectors are not installed either).

If you can get the cam sprocket on the cam with the upper guide out, it becomes a puzzle of making it all fit rather than a question of whether there's slack between the IP and crank.

As I understand, IPs don't like to be spun backwards. I figure with no fuel pressure into the delivery valves, no resistance in the injection lines and very slow backwards rotation of the IP, you can avoid removing the IP to give it a full rotation to some unindexed position that corresponds with #1 TDC.

Sixto
87 300D

Sixto is right--you need to make sure you have all the slack out between the IP and the crank before you do anything. Then if the cam sprocket is very slightly off, don't be afraid to turn the camshaft to get it on the key.

I would check the injection timing after this misadventure.

__________________
1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

Oky-dokey. If I'm getting the picture in my head right, I will put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, keeping it from rotating off TDC for cylinder #1, then put another wrench on the bolt on the center of the sprocket which is now exposed because the vacuum pump is out (I assume this bolt is the IP drive shaft bolt you are referring to). Then, being careful to not let the crank turn at all, slowly turn the IP shaft CCW untill I have the needed slack back. I should be able to do this with the lower guide rail in place (I **r e a l l l y** don't want to go thru removing those darn pins again) - right?

After I get this all back together, I will read up on how to check the IP timing ;-)