I had to replace the turbo on my 300SD, and its almost done, but it has been sitting in my driveway for over a month because I can't get the last bolt back in.
I posted about this before because I wanted to try replacing the part the bolt in question threads into, but the part is NLA, and I don't think that damaged threads are the problem anyway.
My dad was able to get the top bolt in since I took this picture, but neither us could get the bottom one in. I sometimes have trouble putting stuff like that back together because my fingers aren't very strong, but im not sure if its just me or I am doing something wrong. Should I just put it back together without that bolt? I would rather have it be right, so if it needs to be there to not eventually cause something to crack from vibration I would rather take it to a shop and pay the $500 it would probably cost to have it put back together properly, but that seems silly for just one little bolt.

Attached Thumbnails

 

are you referring to the nut that holds the unit to the block tight ?

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

It is real hard to trouble shoot this without being there.

I am going to guess that because the Brass/Gold Colored Bracket looks new that it is in fact new.
If the problem is that the Bolt is not going through the Bracket due to some misalignment of the Holes could simply be that you need to enlarge or elongate the hole in the Bracket so the Bolt will go trough it.

I think that the idea that the other Member had of using a smaller diameter Bolt with a Nut and washers would also work. In stalling the Smaller Diameter Bolt all the way through both sides.

If you send it to a Mechanic He/She is likely to do one of the things I mentioned or as to try a different Bracket.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

a lot of the time when i can't get a bolt in, i have to loosen the other bolts holding things nearby in order to get it in, then retighten the rest.

__________________
'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

Put a 1/4-20 bolt through the hole with a nut on the back. $1 maybe, and will hold just fine.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

That is the same bracket that was on it and bolted on properly when I took it apart. THe only things I changed were the turbo and the flex tube because it had a big crack in it. Even with all the bolts loose I cant move it enough to get the holes to line up. The top bolt is in now, but I think I would have to pull the turbo again to be able to put a nut on the lower one and tighten it up.

I think you already had a thread on this. As I mentioned, loosen the 3 nuts around the flange, where you finger is, and you may be able to rotate the flange a bit.

Do this, then take a drift if you can get it in there and wiggle the parts around until you can get the bolt in. You might have to rotate the flex pipe a bit too.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

To be honest, the MBZ engineers saw fit to create a monster here... with 90 degree opposed mounting screws in a tight configuration that physics determines cannot be aligned properly... unless of course we use the absolute right sequence of assembly, the correct bolts, have young and strong fingers, and are blessed with good light, excellent vision and a warm and dry shop to coddle us while we fuss and finagle... sometimes I want to slap the German engineers silly - Ooops... did I just say that?

OK - feel better now?!?

While you are loosening the flange bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the downpipe rubber isolated mount, and the downpipe-to-exhaust union near the rear of the transmission. I also had a h*ll of a time with that same infernal mount bracket, and am due to remove it again in a month in order to modify my turbo again. Not looking forward to this. ;(

I looked at mine to day while I checked the Auto Trans Fluid and I was surprised to find that while I have the Nut on the Engine part of that Gold Colored Bracket I do not have a bolt; it is missing just as the OP's picture.

I have had My Manifolds off once and I have no recollection of a missing Bolt, having trouble getting a Bolt in or losing a Bolt???

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Chasing the holes with a tap helps. I chased all my holes, and cleaned everything PERFECTLY when I made a new exhaust. Even with neversieze, it was all still a pain.

I'd still recommend getting a 1/4" grade 8 bolt and nut to slip past the threads and clamp it together with that.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment