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Another block heater cord thread
PHOTO ADDED BELOW.
Howdy folks! I checked the cold starting links at the top, didn't see this mentioned. I have a stock factory MBZ block heater in my engine, it came without a cord. Bought the Kats replacement block heater cord. If I push very very hard, the cord will insert into the block heater and as long as it's inserted as far as it will go(which does not appear to be as far as it SHOULD go, the plug does not appear to seat), it will turn on and heat. Wiggle the cord or the engine ever so slightly(like a cat jumping up on the fender) and the plug backs out a teensy bit, looses connection, and stops heating. Wiggle the truck a little more(like the cat jumping off the fender) and the plug comes out entirely. I don't trust this thing to keep a good connection and operate unattended. If the worst it would do is maybe not heat the block, I'd say OK no big deal. I am afraid it would burn my truck down. What's the best source for an OEM heater cord, and who could I beg or bribe to post a good photo of their block heater plug? I would like to compare how far the plug goes into the block heater on a good solid working model vs. my intermittent issue. Any other ideas or tricks? Thanks all.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap Last edited by OM617YOTA; 02-06-2014 at 12:51 PM. |
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Id like to x2 this post.
Unfortunately nothing useful to ad as far as getting one, but im in the market for a new cord as well
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There are a number of threads on this. The fancy OEM heater cord has a screw on cap which secures the connection very nicely. But that cord is quite expensive. I used the cheap cord and silicone rubber sealed it in place, which seemed to work OK.
Rgds, Chris W. '95 E300D, 412K
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Objects in closer are mirror than they appear. |
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Yup, went with the inexpensive cord myself. The cost of an OEM MBZ cord was greater than the cost of an entire replacement block heater, with cord. That would be the next step. I really want to stay with an in-block heater, vs a lower coolant hose heater.
I don't think my block heater has anything for a lock nut on a cord to screw to, I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow morning. Supposed to get snow, I'll be taking the truck to work tomorrow.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#5
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Answer
Here are the two types of cord used by MB.
$14 W210 diesel block heater cord solution. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/313575-$14-w210-diesel-block-heater-cord-solution.html This looks suspiciously familiar. ![]() Replacement Block Heater Cord, 251919, Fleetguard Cummins - Ryder Fleet Products https://www.google.com/search?q=Fleetguard+Replacement+Block+Heater+Cord+251919&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US ![]() .
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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The cord whunter linked to works, vstech had a few and hooked me up. Well he watched while I got under there and plugged it in...it is a snug fit but it will seal down nice and tight with the locking ring.
I would not use silicone here, it can trap moisture and cause problems.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
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Thank you Whunter. I'll have to get pictures - my block heater plug is more rectangular/squarish, with no lock nut. I found the Kats number here on the forums, will have to dig out my receipts when I get home from work and find the exact number.
I may just have to replace the block heater. I understand that's quite an adventure in these engines.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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Quote:
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
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Quote:
Rent a heavy duty impact wrench. I bought one in an auction that cranks out 1000 ft lbs and it's pulled apart everything off a bulldozer that I needed done.
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#10
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Here we go, pic of block heater and gratuitous overall view of truck w/ a dusting of snow. Another 5" of snow expected today.
Obviously I don't have the stock block heater.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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Quote:
engine block heater If the pin spacing is the same, you may be able to cut down a round cord end to rectangular and it may just do the trick.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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I have a similar issue. Tried to reinstall the plug after removing the cord for cleaning. (looks like I have an identical problem - same cord, same plug, same problem)
The reinstallation did not feel confident (like it could fall off any time). In fact during my wrap up (did other things) I snagged the cord ever so slightly the the plug just came off.
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#13
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Quote:
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#14
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Going to go with a couple magnetic heaters. I'll put it off until the next cold spell is upon us and by then I'll probably be wishing I had bought while there was time. An added plus is that the magnetic heaters will work on other stuff too. My gas vehicles would appreciate a block heater when it's seriously cold out.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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