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  #1  
Old 11-18-2019, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Actros617 View Post
Where did you get your EGR block off plate and the ADLA cap?
Yeah, ROLLGUY here sells the EGR delete kits. It's funny because I bought one from someone else on eBay years ago for my 300SD, and then my roommate bought one from ROLLGUY for this car. The one from ROLLGUY got lost in a box somewhere when we moved and we couldn't find it, so we robbed the one from my 300SD because I had just replaced the manifolds with non-EGR ones. I remember the one that ROLLGUY sold had that nice yellow cad plating that matches the rest of the plated parts on the vehicle. One day it will turn up.

As for the ALDA cap, we got it from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/usr/dynomatt27-7?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

https://www.ebay.com/itm/mercedes-300-om617-injection-pump-alda-delete-/174043166450?nma=true&si=qOf9oBwuxTVMn9zfA44YOcMZpJM%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2019, 10:12 PM
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The two valve covers we have didn't look very good. The one that came with the head was in the worst condition cosmetically.


So, I decided to sand and polish it. I used 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper that comes in little strips in the packets at the auto parts stores, and soapy water. It took about 10 hours. Then I polished it with Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream. I let the polish set on the surface for a couple hours to clean off the oxidation from the pits and depressions. It's not perfect, but it does look better than new. This is not a job for the lazy!


Here is the polished valve cover installed with a nice oil filler cap.


I installed the air cleaner, support bracket, and pipe.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2019, 09:01 PM
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It seems that most of the internal breather valves which are hidden away inside the baffling which is riveted in place under the valve covers of the OM603 engines are failing by now. Mercedes must not have intended for the engines to last this long. Their solution is to buy a new valve cover (603-010-05-30) at $615.00.


When this check valve fails, the turbocharger will start to suck in oil from the engine and coat the intake manifold with oil. I wonder how many people have rebuilt their turbocharger thinking it was the culprit. See this link for more information: https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Mercedes%20valve%20cover/Mercedes%20Valve%20Cover%20Breather.html

Apparently you can tell if the internal check valve has failed by putting a hose up to the little hole on the right rear of the valve cover and draw a vacuum--if oil comes out, the diaphragm has failed. On both the valve covers I have here, the holes are wet with oil. I just did a head replacement on this car with the one from the Diseasel after it met its demise. It came with a valve cover, and before the head swap, the previous valve cover on the car on which I am working was allowing oil to get sucked into the turbo as well.

I noticed Diseasel300 had installed a PCV valve from a 1999-2004 Volkswagen Golf or Jetta diesel to replace the failed diaphragm inside the valve cover: The "Diseasel" - '86 300SDL

I decided to get a Volkswagen PCV valve. I was reading this thread here: 0M 603.971 Cold Starts, right up Then: and clicked on the link and purchased a similar PCV valve. Then I realized that the valve I purchased (part number 06A129101D) is a different one than what Diseasel300 used (028129101E) and is actually for a gasoline-powered 1.8 liter Audi and Volkswagen. Oops.

Sadly, while the one I ordered seemed that it would be even more ideal than the one Diseasel300 uses, the bottom tube was too thick to fit into the grommet. It was nearly the thickness of the hole in the valve cover. Darn it! So, my roommate ordered the correct one and the grommet that goes with it since it keeps the valve from resting on the valve cover.

Here is the 028129101E part number valve with the matching 028103500 part number grommet.


The pin on the side should be snapped off so it doesn't interfere. Diseasel300 also inserted a barbed brass fitting on which he shaved off the threads and inserted with black sealant so a smaller hose would fit on it.


This is how the grommet fits on the valve cover--tall side up!


Here is how the PCV valve looks on the valve cover. Unfortunately, it points in the wrong direction and can't be rotated without obscuring the oil filler cap. I tried to think of elegant ways to route the hose so it would be secure and wouldn't interfere with the belt tensioner access or removal of the fan. I even considered using 5/8" aluminum A/C tubing and bending it to shape and securing it to the front of the head using spacers and clamps.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Last edited by Squiggle Dog; 11-20-2019 at 09:44 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2019, 09:10 PM
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But then I had a breakthrough! I figured out a way that I could use this 06A129101D part number breather valve after all.



Because the Volkswagen grommet is so tall, a large portion of it is on the outside of the valve cover, allowing it to expand without the valve cover restricting it. I found that if I cut off the flare at the bottom of the valve, the grommet would stretch enough for it to be inserted.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2019, 09:48 PM
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YAAAAAAAAAAAAY! It lives! What an ordeal, such a rollercoaster!
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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2019, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
YAAAAAAAAAAAAY! It lives! What an ordeal, such a rollercoaster!
Thanks again for the head! Some parts of The Diseasel are living on.
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DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2019, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
Thanks again for the head! Some parts of The Diseasel are living on.
Indeed they are, it makes me happy that they could help someone else.
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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2019, 09:58 PM
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The cooling flush was done. I used a Prestone Flush 'N Fill Kit and the old lower radiator hose to make sure it was rinsed thoroughly. Zerex G-05 coolant went in.


The engine mounts were in dire need of replacement. The right side engine mounting arm was resting on the metal edge of the mount, and a lot of noise and vibration could be felt through the body. The engine was also resting lower than it should, and probably part of why the oil pan smacked the ground pulling into a parking lot.

Diseasel300 sent us the nearly new Lemförder engine mounts that he had on his 1986 W126 300SDL. Unfortunately, I discovered the engine mounts were another feature exclusive to the 350SD/L. For whatever reason, they changed the mounting holes so the ones from his car wouldn't work. So, my roommate ended up buying some from the dealer. The W123 part number ones we got from Diseasel300 are on top, and the 350SDL-specific ones are on the bottom (and they are side-specific due to different shore hardness of rubber).


The right side engine mount isn't accessible from on top. Fortunately, the entire job is able to be done from the bottom. First, the engine mount shock absorbers must come off. They are worn out and need replacing.


The mounting arms are detached from the mounts by the hex key bolt which is accessed through a hole under the mount.


Then the engine is lifted up so the heat shields can be removed and the bolts holding the mounts to the body can be accessed.
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DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Last edited by Squiggle Dog; 11-25-2019 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:14 PM
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The bolts securing the engine mounts to the body are now able to be removed.


The old mounts are on the left, and the new ones are on the right. That is the flattest mount I've ever seen! The center was actually touching the body of the car, and the engine mounting arm was resting on the metal edge.


We also got the heat shields from The Diseasel. The right side heat shield from my roommate's car was cracked from the mounting arm crushing it against the collapsed mount, so it was much needed. The left side one was pretty good. The left side one from The Diseasel looked like it was in good condition, but might have gotten crushed by the head during shipping. If that's the only damage that happened, I'll take it. So, I ended up using the original left side one, but it was covered with a thick layer of hardened waste vegetable oil that I had to burn off with a torch. Then I painted them.


The left side mounting arm was missing a bolt, so I found one in my spare hardware stash. Unfortunately, I discovered that the original bolt had sheared off and was still inside the hole.


The mounts and heat shields are installed! One day we'll replace the engine shocks. The new mounts made a huge difference. The engine used to be so loud and the body would vibrate. Now it is so smooth and quiet, and it also solved the problem of the engine nearly stalling after being revved up and let go. Apparently running a diesel engine with bad mounts can actually break crankshafts and main bearings from the shock force.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2021, 09:39 PM
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Was gutted when I read your post saying that you have cancer. Fight hard man, the odds of beating it are better every day. Yours are largely yte only posts I read these days. Stay strong.
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1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
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  #11  
Old 02-27-2021, 02:22 PM
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Interesting. I've never had any issue with URO hoses, I just clamp them really hard. The lower one is NLA totally as far as I remember...

Anyway, nice show of perfectionism. Just like me...

I also did the AC stuff, new temp sensor, evap sensor, checked preresistor, relay...fan comes on at such high engine temp that I just prefer to jump it (at receiver-drier) in the late spring until end of summer, and I hear it switch to the high mode when stuck in traffic at 110+ F ambient.
Recently I discovered that my climate control flaps do not work as per manual, even though everything checks out perfectly when tested separately. It seems the system works great in auto mode, but in min/max setting I'm getting erratic flow like cold air from center vent when heating. Perhaps it's an electronic issue, that the flaps are moved in incorrect order. Who knows
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  #12  
Old 02-27-2021, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by KJenkins View Post
Great job. I hope the health of both you and your roommate improves. This forum would not be the same without all the detailed pics and information that you share.
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoy them.

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Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
First time I've mentioned this on the forum ...

Last September I started experiencing fatigue, gradually worsening. I had been scheduled for green light laser reduction surgery around Oct. 1, I went ahead with it (turned out very good) - the relevant point, my Stanford Health Care app listed results of my blood test. Red and white blood celll and platelet numbers were below minimim standards.

Much diagnosis later (mid Nov.), turns out I have some fibrosis (scarring) of bone marrow, resulting in reduced blood cell production. Yikes. Also swollen lymph node near groin, about kumquat size. Was excised, non-Hodgkins lymphoma the diagnosis, this in early Dec. After much reading, decided to go with chemo and major diet improvement. Didn't really think wheat grass and out other iimproved diet alone was enough.

Many of my symptoms (drenching night sweats, fatigue) have improved dramatically, this after two chemo sessions (one every three weeks) and quite a bit of diet improvement, albeit with falling off the wagon for multiple days too often. I also lost weight, about 20 lbs.

If it's what you have, you can beat it. Probably. Got to believe it of course. I'm managing my health better than in years. I'm sort of trim looking but I've long had a stupid Haagen Dazs habit. Often a pint a day. Some statistical evidence indicates sat. fat exacerbates NHL likelihood. I have cut that out almost completely though I have had a few. Also virtually stopped on Reese cups. Even my PCP says that cancers love sugar. My take is that sugar does make life better for cancers. I'm looking to go more and more paleo in my diet.

Trader Joes has a product: green juice. Very pungeant taste of raw cucumber and celery. I take a swig or two when I feel like snacking. Also a few fl. ozs. 30 minutes before a meal. I swear it's bringing good results.

Andrew Weil is not universally beloved, I sorta like him, he is now in favor of chemo with diet improvement.
Wow, similar experience then. I had the sleeping disorder and migraines already, but then it got really out of control to the point where I could only be awake for a few hours, and I had a lymph node in my groin that swelled up to the size of a golf ball. From there, other lymph nodes started swelling, and I got other lumps which I am not sure are lymph nodes. And then like you're saying--feeling constantly overheated, lots of fatigue, losing about 20 lbs, and then for me--losing my appetite.

When the blood tests were done, however, they didn't show any signs of cancer, just markers of increased metabolism and tissue damage. My blood cell counts looked good, and in fact, the rest of the blood tests showed healthy blood. The doctor thinks it was caught early, but I feel pretty awful, so it may have spread quite a bit in my lymphatic system and bone marrow (my bones and joints ache) and not so much in the blood yet.

My diet has been pretty good. I don't really eat junk food, don't eat a lot of processed food, and don't have candy or soda. No animal products, either. It would be nice if there was a clear cause of this type of cancer so I could know what caused it or how I could avoid it. My physical activity has dropped off to nothing during the pandemic because I'm keeping the dogs quiet while my roommate works from home (where he's on the phone and video conferences). Sad, because a year ago I was running as much as 13 miles in a day getting myself in shape, and lifting weights.

Greens are supposed to be a good part of an anti-cancer diet. I have started eating raw kale recently. It's one of the few things my stomach can tolerate anymore. I'm glad to hear you're showing improvement, and it is a much better cancer to deal with than, say, pancreatic cancer. I have an uncle who recently died from it, and another uncle who died from it a long time ago. Both only lived about 3 months after their diagnosis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by filp View Post
Interesting. I've never had any issue with URO hoses, I just clamp them really hard. The lower one is NLA totally as far as I remember...

Anyway, nice show of perfectionism. Just like me...

I also did the AC stuff, new temp sensor, evap sensor, checked preresistor, relay...fan comes on at such high engine temp that I just prefer to jump it (at receiver-drier) in the late spring until end of summer, and I hear it switch to the high mode when stuck in traffic at 110+ F ambient.
Recently I discovered that my climate control flaps do not work as per manual, even though everything checks out perfectly when tested separately. It seems the system works great in auto mode, but in min/max setting I'm getting erratic flow like cold air from center vent when heating. Perhaps it's an electronic issue, that the flaps are moved in incorrect order. Who knows
Clamping it really hard might have been what caused this one to leak; not sure. I should investigate it at some point. We got a new lower genuine Mercedes radiator hose, but maybe they have now been discontinued as well. Should have gotten the genuine upper while we still could.

The way the auxiliary fans are set up now, they should only come on 1. when the temperature switch tells them to while the air conditioning is on (rather than the whole time) and then they will come on at full speed and 2. when the engine gets close to overheating, which will also be at full speed. It could be beneficial to have the fans run any time the air conditioning is on, so that might be a future modification.

The monovalve doesn't work properly and will need to be rebuilt at some point in the future. I have the heater hose clamped off except in the winter when cabin heat is needed. Otherwise it heats up the cabin and the air conditioning has to fight it. Oh, and at least the recirculating air flap vacuum pod is bad. The vacuum system will need attention some day.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2021, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
Wow, similar experience then. I had the sleeping disorder and migraines already, but then it got really out of control to the point where I could only be awake for a few hours, and I had a lymph node in my groin that swelled up to the size of a golf ball. From there, other lymph nodes started swelling, and I got other lumps which I am not sure are lymph nodes. And then like you're saying--feeling constantly overheated, lots of fatigue, losing about 20 lbs, and then for me--losing my appetite.

When the blood tests were done, however, they didn't show any signs of cancer, just markers of increased metabolism and tissue damage. My blood cell counts looked good, and in fact, the rest of the blood tests showed healthy blood. The doctor thinks it was caught early, but I feel pretty awful, so it may have spread quite a bit in my lymphatic system and bone marrow (my bones and joints ache) and not so much in the blood yet.

My diet has been pretty good. I don't really eat junk food, don't eat a lot of processed food, and don't have candy or soda. No animal products, either. It would be nice if there was a clear cause of this type of cancer so I could know what caused it or how I could avoid it. My physical activity has dropped off to nothing during the pandemic because I'm keeping the dogs quiet while my roommate works from home (where he's on the phone and video conferences). Sad, because a year ago I was running as much as 13 miles in a day getting myself in shape, and lifting weights.

Greens are supposed to be a good part of an anti-cancer diet. I have started eating raw kale recently. It's one of the few things my stomach can tolerate anymore. I'm glad to hear you're showing improvement, and it is a much better cancer to deal with than, say, pancreatic cancer. I have an uncle who recently died from it, and another uncle who died from it a long time ago. Both only lived about 3 months after their diagnosis.
Wow. Some similarities all right and numerous differences. Complicated stuff. Have they taken a core sample (I forget the correct phrase) from the enlarged lymph node? I would guess they have. Probably a PET scan also.

I know the feeling about feeling good not long ago. About 6 months before all of this I finished a big job, got paid and noted that I felt remarkably good and energetic. This just after the pandemic broke, about April 2020.

Good luck with it all of course. The body wants to heal, I think. Knowing what to do to help it is the tricky part.
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Old 02-28-2021, 06:08 PM
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Thumbs up Don't Quit !

I'm another who reads your every post .

My father was an Oncologist and the one things above all others I learned from him was fight cancer ! .
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Old 03-01-2021, 07:59 PM
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I'm another who reads your every post .

My father was an Oncologist and the one things above all others I learned from him was fight cancer ! .
Thanks. I just hope I'm well enough to do anything but laze around all day. Even walking is painful and slow.
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DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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