so I have read a number of information messages regarding removal, and they usually mentioned using three floor jacks. I have two Floor jacks and a six ton bottle jack. can I use the bottle jack under the diff and the two floor jacks in the trailing arm locations to safely remove the sub frame? I need to replace at least one trailing arm bushing, as well as a complete rear brake overhaul.

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1985 300SD

I would support the diff with the floor jack, take out the diff mount, lower the first section, then unhook the body mounts and lower the rest. I would not use a bottle jack.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I only used 1 floor jack. The bulk of the weight is the diff. I put the jack under the diff and unbolted it. I then undid the forward bodymounts and had a friend help me, he lowered the jack and I held on to the body mounts and gave it a little balance. with me holding on the the body mounts we were able to wheel it out from under the car on the jack.

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Here are some crappy cellphone pictures from when i did mine.

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Funny - you make it sound like you were doing a Hulk Hogan holding up the car by yourself! I'm glad to see that you used axle stands (in the pictures above) to support the car.

Before supporting the differential mounts I recommend making sure that the forward sub frame mount bolts are going to come out => undo them a bit.

You need to raise the vehicle off of the ground and support it safely before attempting the rolling the sub frame out on the wheels trick. If you have the wheels touching the ground then the springs tend to push the sub frame about and you end up with a fight on your hands. The car needs to be high enough so that the springs are no longer an issue.

Please note this is not the recommended method in the FSM but it does work well - I've done it working alone on my W123. I still think it is a good idea to read through the chapter in the FSM before starting this though...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I kind of thought that if someone was thinking about taking out the subframe, they understood that laws of physics enough to know that cars don't hover by themselfs, and thus needed jack stands. I though he was asking how to lower the subframe after the car was in the air.

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Naaah - I think you're a strong chap really and you just put the axle stands in the picture to fool us all!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Great pics!
Especially the supervisor with the cold one.

ok, thanks folks
so where do I find a copy of the Manual, to read?
also, how much of the exhaust system needs to be removed
first the shocks come out, correct?

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1985 300SD

Stretch...I seen him, he is the Hulk, they must be twins...saw him change a flat tire once. Just grabbed the corner and lifted up and jerked that wheel right off.


I might be the one that mentioned three Floor Jacks. I use 3 to roll it back under the car. Used one as I remember under the Diff to unbolt it when removing it.

Remove the Shocks first, Brake Calipers, Brake Cables, Sway Bar and Drive Line. Then when the Diff Mount is unbolted, the Springs will just fall out when the jack is lowered.

Use a Jack to hold the Trailing Arm when unbolting the 50 Cal Bolt at the Sub Frame mount.

Been a while since I removed all that. I use some old carpet to work on, Seems (as I remember) I had it laying on the carpet and just dragged the who assy out from under the vehicle.

Seeing Sirnik84 SD up on those Jack Stands sure makes me nervous. I did the same thing, but made some rods out on 3/4" stock to fit into the Jack Holes and had the stands under them. Being here in Kali Land, we get Earth Quakes, I kept imagining the vehicle moving back and off those Stands and......

AS Sirnik said, these cars don`t hover.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I intend to do the rear bushings after front ball joints and will try to get pics. I've noticed that cheap new vehicles steer better than either SDs.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I knew it!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If you go to www.startekinfo.com you can get free access to the FSM - the website is a bit hit and miss though

PM sent

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

well i chickened out on the bushing replacement for now, BUT, I did replace the rear calipers, rotors, brake hoses and pads.

So, what is the best way to bleed the brakes? Do i have to bleed all 4 calipers, or just the ones i replaced. is there a particular order?

I will do the bushing another day, or weekend.

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1985 300SD

Do you have a power bleeder? 100x easier with one...

If you do here is a guide:

Mercedes W123 Brake Fluid Flush/Bleeding - iFixit

You can still use some of the other principles in the guide if you're doing it the old fashioned way i.e. pumping the pedal but you'll need a helper. And some suggest you risk damaging an old master cylinder this way.

The basic gist of it is that you need to bleed the whole system once you open it up. Start at the furthest point and work forwards. I do passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

Then I always rinse and repeat at least once for good measure.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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