I thought I addressed that. The firewall and scattershield are REALLY close there and I really can't get a line out of there never mind fitting in the sender which is about 2 1/2" in diameter. Believe me, I tried. I had an adaptor and a 90* elbow in that spot that I installed before the trans and scattershield were in place and I had to cut off the elbow to get the adaptor out.

So is the oil filter top a better spot than the cooler line? I'm thinking yes if those lines are temp controlled. And thanks for that possibility - I probably wouldn't have thought of that. I can just drill and tap for that, I think. Worst case is I'll have a lump welded on to make a thick spot for that.

Dan

This is a VERY specific use for the engine. I highly doubt that oil temp will be an issue as the engine will idle for a few minutes, run WOT at full load for a minute or so (1 mile), then idle back to the pits. I expect that the bigger issue will be getting the oil up to temp rather than overheating it (I may install an oil temp gage but haven't decided that yet).

I DO appreciate your concern but this is SUCH a weird application that different rules apply. If I take the truck to Bonneville (not likely) I'll have to rethink the oil cooler issue.

Dan

Is that a 1/8" NPT in the bolt in your pic? That would be pretty straightforward though a lathe would make it easier. There's a guy in town who will do stuff like that for me as I lack serious machine tools (I lust after a Bridgeport but not practical).

Dan

Yes, it is 1/8" NPT.

I just put the central tube on the Cap into the Chuck and drilled

On my year and Model that Tube is press fitted into the Cap. I took A Hammer with Plastic ends and tapped it off to make sure the chips got cleaned out.

You can Grease the Fluts on the Drill Bit and Tap to control the Chips but I just wanted to make sure to get themout.

There is a one way valve near the Bottom of the Stem so you cannot blow compressed Air through the Bottom of the tube.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the tips. I think I'll go that way

Dan

If you put the oil pressure sending unit on top of the oil filter housing lid, you are going to get very annoyed when it comes time to change your oil filter, as me how I know...

Mine will be in the center of the bolt. I'll pull the wires (yes, WIRES) and use an end wrench on the bolt flats - no big deal.

Dan

Well you might have taking sometime and put more thought into the problem.

Note that you need to make sure you have clearance between the Hood and the Sending Unit.

Notice the Oil Pressure Sending Unit in My Pic. It has a male spade connector end on it.

when I change the Filter I simply disconnect the Spade connector and remove the Lid normally.

The elbow Fitting in the pic is connected to a Hose going to my Bypass Oil Filter. I made the Hose long enough so that the Oil Filter Cap/Lid can still be lifted off.
The same could be done with the Wires going to the Sending Unit. Just make the Wires long enough that you can pull off the Oil Filter Cap/Lid with out disconnecting anything.

If the Oil Pressure sending unit uses a Nut and Stud it is easy enough to install Spade or other types of Electrical Connectors somewhere along the Wires so you can pull them apart/disconnect them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am notorious for missing details in Posts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My new sender/gage combo isn't here yet so I'll have to see if I need an elbow or not - I don't think so as the S-10 engine bay is pretty deep.

My oil filter can does not have the thru bolt thru the top as you have shown. Still, pretty sure I can determine a place to drill and tap mine.

I went out to the Parker Store a few minutes ago and picked up the plug for the stock oil pressure port - no prob. It's a 12mm Euro style (captured gasket) standard plug.

Dan

Was your engine originally configured for a mechanical gauge or for an electric gauge?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I think it was electric. It was an '84 (IIRC, maybe '85) 300SD and no mods had been done to it so whatever they used.

Dan

On My year and model it has that the Bypass valve in the Oil Filter Housing opens at 3.5 bar. That is about 50.75 psi.

I am not sure what Pressure the Stock setup would show. But, I am guessing as you said it would show the same Oil Pressure if the Bypass Valve is open or if it is closed (and the Filter is not plugged).

It is not explained in the manual but that is a differential pressure between the Dirty Oil side of the Filter and the Filteres Oil side of the Filter. Meaning the Dirty Oil side has to rise 3.5 bar above the Filtered Oil side in order for the Bypass Valve to open.

I believe this means that if a Filter is starting to Plug up the Oil on the Dirty Oil side has to rise 3.5 bar above the the Filtered Oil side before the Bypass Valve is going to open.

That makes Me think that at hot idle in the face of an entirly Plugged Filter if you had a Gauge hooked up to the dirty side and the Bypass Valve opens you are going to show 3.5 bar/50.75. When in My case the Hot idle pressure is 1.5 bar/ 21.7 psi.

Also when the Bypass Valve opens you get unfilterd Oil.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel